Exceed-RC Razor stalling and stalling
#1
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From: , FL
he guys im new to the game. i bought the 1/8th scale razor from nitrorcx.com. i guess im going through the break in pains. first off, the manual that comes with the car sucks. i dont really know where the stock setting should be for this .21 CXP engine. ive messed with all the setting trying to keep this thing running.
i dont have a problem getting it started. it just tends to stall immediately. i have to crank it a million time to get it to run without the glow stick. then once i finally get it to idle for a bit if i hit the gas it will stall. doesnt make a difference where the rpms are at, it will stall. it stalls in the top in and bottom end. it has no prefernce
it mostly bogs in the bottom end and stalls. also when i hit the brakes. when i hit the brakes the carborator closes pretty much all the way. im sure it should do that?
i did check the glow plug, by pulling it out of the engine and putting it in the plug igniter. it still glows. i was hoping that was the problem. if it glows then i dont need a new glow plug do i?
please help me. i would love to be able to actually drive this crazy thing.
i dont have a problem getting it started. it just tends to stall immediately. i have to crank it a million time to get it to run without the glow stick. then once i finally get it to idle for a bit if i hit the gas it will stall. doesnt make a difference where the rpms are at, it will stall. it stalls in the top in and bottom end. it has no prefernce
it mostly bogs in the bottom end and stalls. also when i hit the brakes. when i hit the brakes the carborator closes pretty much all the way. im sure it should do that?i did check the glow plug, by pulling it out of the engine and putting it in the plug igniter. it still glows. i was hoping that was the problem. if it glows then i dont need a new glow plug do i?
please help me. i would love to be able to actually drive this crazy thing.
#2
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From: Detroit,
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Return all the screws back to Factory spec and she should start right up. Do not try to tune it for power until the motor has been properly broken in, Running it really lean at this point could easily blow the motor to pieces.
#3
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From: , FL
i dont know where the factory specs are suppost to be.... thats part of the problem. and wasnt trying to tune the car for power. iwas trying to tune it to not stall. i would be happy at this point for just running period.
the only factoery setting it says in the manual is the needle valve (high ens setting). it is suppost to be at 1 1/2 turners from its closest postion. from what ive read that is pretty low. most everything ive read is 3-5 turns out from the closest position.
i have no idea were to adjust the low end needle and the mid valve needle. it dosent say anywhere.
is anybody fimilar with my car?
the only factoery setting it says in the manual is the needle valve (high ens setting). it is suppost to be at 1 1/2 turners from its closest postion. from what ive read that is pretty low. most everything ive read is 3-5 turns out from the closest position.
i have no idea were to adjust the low end needle and the mid valve needle. it dosent say anywhere.
is anybody fimilar with my car?
#4
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From: Detroit,
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The point i'm trying to make is that you messed with the needles Period and you didn't have to bro, Just set it back how it was and she'll fire right up1
#5
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From: , FL
Sorry, i wasnt trying to be rude, this car is just making my blood pressure rise. i tinkered with all the valves without writing down where they were at. it wouldnt crank right out of the box. so i messed with it. that was my fault...
im now thinking i might have an airleak. how common is that with a new engine?
im now thinking i might have an airleak. how common is that with a new engine?
#7
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From: , FL
here is the link... http://www.nitrorcx.com/cheap-price-...d-gas-car.html
good luck finding info...
thanks for all the help!
good luck finding info...
thanks for all the help!
#8
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From: leicester, UNITED KINGDOM
Its too rich mate.
Turn the low speed needle 12th turn clockwise and try it again. If its still no good do it again. Don't go to far though you just wnat to do it enough to allow it to keep running. Also lean of the HSN ever so slightly.
Factory settings are usually FAR too rich even for break in.
You want to get it running for the break in but still have plenty of blue smoke and some oily stuff coming from the pipe.
Turn the low speed needle 12th turn clockwise and try it again. If its still no good do it again. Don't go to far though you just wnat to do it enough to allow it to keep running. Also lean of the HSN ever so slightly.
Factory settings are usually FAR too rich even for break in.
You want to get it running for the break in but still have plenty of blue smoke and some oily stuff coming from the pipe.
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From: Grafton, OH
Set LSN to 2 turns out from the bottom,HSN 3 to 3 1/2 turns out from the bottom, set mid range needle flush with the body of the carb. Set idle so carb is open about 1mm. try that and see what happens...Maybe replace the glow plug to a #8 or #9. Check screw that holds carb to make sure it's tight. There could be an air leak somewhere. Does the motor get hot fast?
#11
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From: , FL
well, i finally got it running pretty good. i replaced the glow plug and leaned out the LSN and that seemed to do the trick. it does seem to get hot fast thou? what does that mean?
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From: albuquerque,
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What is hot? It should be in the 200-240 degree range. If its gettign hotter than that, then richen it up some and make sure there is air flow going to the motor. Is there a hole cut out in the front windshield?
#13
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From: , FL
i dont know how hot it is getting. i dont have a temp gauge. is it common that once you run out of gas or it stalls out, that it doesnt want to start right up? if i wait about five minute, there is no problem.



