I am interested in purchasing the Team Losi 8ight RTR, I found it on Amain Hobbies for $540, that seems like a good deal, anything to know about it, I do know that the only complaint with it in the reviews was with the diffs being filled with grease instead of oil, what is a good "oil range" to try out, also, anything prone to breaking on it, like arms... anything to "stock up on"[8D], thanks alot
PS, if there is any cheaper price on a RTR plz tell me[8D]

Losi recommends 5,7,2 for oil. The 8ight seems to be a very durable buggy. Most everyone at my local track runs an 8ight b or t and they hardly break anything. A buddy of mine got the RTR and hasn't had any problems. Keep in mind, if you want to use a bump box your going to have to get a sportwerks 21 backplate and normal engine mounts.

I actually just got my Race Roller in the mail today and I can't wait to get it on the track this week!

that's a pretty good price, (i shop constantly for this junk)

I really like amain a lot, I'm in norcal and they get me stuff the next day from when i order it usually


you could also look at ultimatehobbies.com (they're in socal like you) and shipping is free I've bought from them too, but I do like amain better but on kits ultimate is sometimes cheaper

just sucks that we have to pay sales tax from those shops!

I FEEL YOU!!!

I've had an 8ight rtr for a year. The TL427 is a beast in the 8ight RTR ...very torquey. If you haven't driven a buggy before I would recommend turning the endpoint down on the throttle to begin with then gradually increase it as you ge use to it. Also Check the throttle linkage setup just like the manual states. Most ppl change the rear springs to green.
Shock oil =40wt all around is a good place to start. The clutch is a 4 shoe setup but the RTR only has two installed. I added the second pair. I run two plastic (gold springs) & two aluminum shoes (silver springs). The only other thing I've replaced are the shock towers, they bend after awhile. You can get the kit version (heavier & ribbed) off of ebay. It's a great buggy, handles & jumps like a champ. Hope this helps.

I have seen the 8ight T at a track before, (actually 2, and 2 mini crts......), ya, it does seem NICE, I like how it comes with the DSM radio STOCK, and the only thingie that Webdr complained about was the diffs with grease (no biggie), do you have to do any mods of it to get the oil in there??? ya, are the arms prone to breaking in a crash....??? since my LHS sadly doesn't carry parts for it[], ya, I definately want to get something that can last me a while, unlike my 18T[>:], I wonder why the 8ight T is like $100 more, how good are the tires, nice and grippy... also, big question, how does it turn, I have a small track (er, lane wise, 5', also 5' radi in the turns) and want to be able to drive it on there[8D]

Like I said, the 8ights are very durable. You may have to upgrade the shock towers after a while is all. As far as steering goes, the 8ight has the most out of everything I have seen so far. That being said, Its harder to drive well then most buggys.. It handles more like an on-road touring car.

er, is this a "bad thing" so i guess it is REALLY responsive[8D], good thingie I ask questions, er, soo if I were to get one, get another pair of towers and that is all, maybe another pair of arms, depends[8D]

I really wouldn't worry about arms. It's good and bad. Good in the sense that it can be very precise. Bad in the sense that it will feel twitchy to someone that isn't used to it. It really depends on the driver.

ya, it all takes pratice, I am used to the sloppy response of my 18T so when I drove a truck with better handling, WOW, amazing difference, I guess Adam Drake races with one??? prob so[8D], ya, definately am considering it, how easy is it to tune the engine/break it in (big question)

Very easy to tune and break in. You can do it all with the included roto-start. The engine responds very well to needle inputs and stays consistent. Don't ask me about longevity though. Haven't seen one with more than 3 gallons through it.

Make sure you change out your front clutch bell bearing often or you'll wind up with your clutch bell going through your fuel tank.

If your clutch bell goes into your tank its because,

A: You didnt use locktit on the screw at the end of the crank
B: Your gear mesh is to tight cause premature bearing wear
C: your clutch is slipping cause to much heat excessive bearing wear

You don't have to change it often, just check and make sure it's OK. I rarely have to deal with it...

OH, that kinda stinks[], wonder if therea any good replacements, the only thingie I don't like is how the engine head sticks out really far and the wing is the ONLY thingie protecting the heatsink on the engine[], ya, does sound nice