i had a leak in my fuel tank so i got a new one and i wanted to get a new exhaust so i did that today at the same time. I installed the new tank and new exhaust, then put back to factory settings then i got one start and my starter box shorted and caught on fire so now i have a new starter box, it starts right up w/ no problem but if i give it gas or take the glow plug ignitor off it dies right away, can someone help with this issue??? im at hsn-4 lsn -2.5



btw i tried putin the stock exhaust back on and it kept flooding, should i keep leanin it out or what

Try a new glow plug, and it sounds like you are to rich. Try the HSN at 2 1/2 at the most to start and work from there.

i put a brand new plug in it, new bat n the ignitor, and ill lean the hsn b4 tryin 2 start it tommrow and more tips

Sounds to rich and make sure you try reving small amounts when the engine starts while the wheels are off the ground. This will help to start warming up the engine so the nitro fuel burns better. Always adjust in small amounts.

No offense to Giddy, but I wouldn't screw the needle in to 2 1/2. If it's running too rich at 4, then go in to 3 1/2, if that don't work, then try 3, just until you get it running. Once you get it to stay running, remember to adjust the HSN first for performance using 1/8 turn increments, then adjust the LSN for punch and idle. David is right about revving small amounts with the wheels off the ground, this helps the engine warm and clears excess fuel from the carburetor so it won't stall on you. Here's the tuning method I use and tell everyone, seems to be the best:

The easiest way to tune the carb is to start with the stock settings, most manufacturers are making their engines so that the head of the needle adjustment screw sits flush at factory settings, check with the manufacturer for the recommended settings. They will either tell you flush at factory settings or will tell you a specific number of turns out from closed at factory settings. This is normally a slightly rich setting. Start the tuning by making 1/8 inch turns on the high speed needle (normally sits on top of the carburetor), usually screwing in to lean the mixture. After an adjustment, run the truck a few times and see if there is any improvement. Continue making adjustments in 1/8 increments until there is no longer a noticeable improvement, then richen the mixture 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. Remember to run the truck after each adjustment to check for improvement in performance. There should also always be what looks like smoke (it's actually a mixture of smoke and oil due to the fact that when Nitro fuel is ignited the methanol in it explodes and the oil in the fuel seperates and lubricates the engine) coming out of the exhaust tip whenever you are on the throttle, if not then the mixture is too lean. For the low speed adjustment (usually on the side of the carburetor), start by running the truck at high speed for a second then stop the truck and immediately pinch the fuel line running from the tank to the carb. It should rev for a second then die, if it revs for more than a second or two, then the mixture is too rich and you need to screw the low speed needle in 1/8 of a turn. If it revs and dies as soon as you stop the truck and touch the line then the mixture is too lean and you need to richen the needle 1/8 of a turn. Remember to run the truck some between each adjustment to clear the carb. Tuning takes quite a bit of time, just don't get frustrated with it. Once you have the tune correct you should be able to let the truck sit and it should idle forever without dying. You may have to adjust the idle speed needle (usually sits at an angle on the front or back of the carb). After you get the tune right, you will only need to make minor adjustments to account for weather changes. In hotter weather the motor needs to be leaner and in cold weather the motor needs to be richer due to changes in air density.