Funkyjazza

hey guyz,

i am new to the buggie secne, but my brother has bought me a Hyper 8.5 RTR Kit, and i need a step by step guide how on how to break it in propley, like how many tanks do i run it on idle, half, 3/4, full, and i aint goona race it, just using it in parks and parking lots, if any1 could help me, it would be much appriecatied, if u have a word doc or something u could send me, my e-mail is [email protected]

Australia Says Thanks
Jardin

tommygun32

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...itro+engine+br

There are 10 vids on this link and some other random ones. It doesn't matter that the car being broken in is not exactly like yours, the principals and actions are the same.

Have fun with your new hobby, I'll give you a month or so before the "racing" bug bites ya...

Osirisf16

First of all:



Now,, there are 2 methods of break-in. The old school one, and the heat cycles one. You should start with the old school since it's easier. Here is the link to the heat cucle method anyway: http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html


Now, as you can see in the picture, there are 3 needles. The HSN (High Speed Needle), the LSN (Low Speed Needle) and the idle screw.

First you must be sure that the needles are in factory settings. If it's a new engine and nobody touched the needles, then leave it there. Now for the first time starting the engine. Start the engine (it's a painful start in first time because of the excessive compression but this is for now only). Try have some tiny throttle there because the engine will run too rich and it might turn off and you wont that, trust me. Run your engine for 1-2 tanks with the wheels off the ground. Let the engine turn off then. Let the engine cool off. Put fuel in your tank and start the engine. Now put your car on the ground and try make circles or 8 figures with 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, NOT FULL THROTTLE. Do this for 5-6 tanks. Then let the engine turn off and let it cool down. Fuel your tank and start again. Now it's where you must be carefull. Try screw the HSN 1/8 of a turn. Run your car and try catch the highest speed. If the car stalls and turn off, then the mixture is still too rich, so you must lean (screw the needle) your engine more. Don't make quick movements on your throttle trigger because your engine might turn off. Normally, you will some 1-2 turns untill your engine sounds fine but don't screw 2 turns in the first step. Go step by step so you can hear the engine changing (power and sound). When you finally make the engine reach the top speed without stalling, it's time to tune the LSN. While in idle, quickly press the trigger to full throttle. If your engine stalls, then you must lean the LSN. If your engine sounds like coahing, then rich (unscrew the needle) the LSN.

There are plenty of things i didn't write that will help but if this is your first time, i recommend find a guy who knows. It will be really helpfull instead of telling you here. Now, the procedure i described maybe it's different than others, it's normal of course. If some guys can give more info, then it would be helpfull. I was trying to find a quide in the forum but didn't find one. f someone got such quide, please link it so i can save it in my favourites, ya?

Good luck with your engine man

Funkyjazza

and one more question, wat fuel should i break in as and wats the max % i can go to after break in

cheers
Jardin

K_B

Stick with 20% nitro. No need to go higher. You'd may even have to add shims to the head if you went higher.

Funkyjazza

so even in the breaking in process, always use 20%???

thanks again

Jardin

hrdcoreglf

You should break in the engine with what ever % fuel you intend to run when your done with break in.

Heat cycling for stress relief
Stress relief is accomplished by repeatedly heating and cooling the engine-short engine runs followed by complete cooling repeated many times. ABC engine break-in involves such heat cycles, betit is not the same proceedure as is used for non ABC engines.

ABC break-in the inside story
Abc engines require a shorter break-in (heat cycling) than engines of the past- less than 45 min. for most. To attain and maintain maximum power levels, however, requires adherence to an entirely new set of break-in rules.
The primary objective of ABC break-in is to maintain the delicate top of the piston pinch zone while allowing the internal engine components to heat cycle with some minor smoothing and allignment (crankpin, wristpin, rod journals, etc.).

Tight ABC piston/cylinder assemblies
Some new Abc-type engines are so tight at TDC that for the first few times the engine is cranked over and run, the possibility exist of damaging the connecting rod, crankpin, and piston. To avoid this, preheat the cylinder and the head with a heat gun or a hair dryer. This preheating expands the piston sleeve, and that minimizes the potential for stress on all the engine components during initial startup.

Here is how this is achieved:
FUEL- Use the same fuel for break-in as you will for normal operation. If you break-in your engine with low nitromethane fuel, e.g., 5% and then jump to 20% for actual running, the piston / cylinder fit will be too loose. Five % nitro doesn't generate as high a combustion temp., so the cylinder won't expand as much, and the pinch zone will wear more than if the cylinder had pulled away farther, as it would with the hotter burning, higher nitro fuel.

ABC break-in in the car

Set the main needle according to the manufacturer's specifications (e.g., 2 to 3 turns counterclockwise from closed). Open the idle needle several turns so the engine shuts off when abruptly throttled back.
-Start the engine
-Advance the throttle to 1/2. Listen for 4-cycling. Lean the mixture to a rich two cycle operation.
-Run the car in a 100 foot diameter circle or figure 8. Keep the throttle at 1/2 and listen for 4-cycling. Don't let this happen! If it does, immediately lean the main fuel needle a little at a time until the engine produces a clean, steady 2-cycling sound. Run your car in a cicle/ figure 8 for about 1 minute. When the minute is up immediatly check the head temp.
Keep a log of run time, head temp, estimated rpm and your perfomance comments.
The goal is to keep the head temp. at above 200 degrees F. and less than approximately 230 degrees F. If the head temp. is less than 200 degrees F. lean the high speed needle slightly, and try again after the engine has completely cooled. When the engine stops, using the fly wheel turn the piston to BDC.
-Perform the 1 minute run at least three times while you adjust the head temp. by "tweaking" the needle valve as needed.
-Now run the car around for 2 minutes at least twice. Remember: 1/2 throttle and no four cycling. Same game : check head temp., allow it to cool, record data.
-Don't be tempted to open the throttle wide! The mixture settings will probably be all wrong for wide open throttle(WOT)(. There is plenty of time for that later.
-The rest of the 1/2 throttle break-in runs will be 3 minutes long. When they tottle 35 minutes(minimum), you have successfully heat-cycled your engine and break-in is properly complete. If you like you can run it another 10 minutes or so it won't hurt.
-Tune the engine for WOT and idle operation.
To read " Super Engine Tining" by Steve Pond go to ( rcnitro.com/artcles/index.asp )

2- vs. 4-cycling operation
If you run a 2-stroke engine then you have heard of 4-cycling. When a two stroke engine is operated very fuel-rich or at somewhere below 1/2 throttle, it begins to fire on alternate crankshaft revolution. As the mixture is richened at wide open throttle, the ehaust sounds like this as it breaks from 2-cycling to 4-cycling: " RRREEEAAAHHHHHHH."
As the throttle is reduced to about 1/2, the exaust sounds like this, as it breaks from 2-cycling to 4-cycling: "RRRRREEEEETAT-TAT-TAT-TAT."
With both examples comes a simotanios loss of rpm with the change in exuast sound. This is 4-cycling. Learn to avoidit. Because the ABC-type engines were originally designed as WOT racing engines, their pistons and cylinders operated happily. Today, ABC engines are also expected to idle and throttle reliably. Unfortunatly this allows them to cool excessively, especially below 1/2 throttle, where poor cylinder scavenging (clearing) causes them to 4-cycle and wear away the critical pinch zone as the piston sleeve cools and tightens around the piston
Throttling is a necessary phase of running nitro engines in cars, so you can't simply eliminate it from your routine, but do not allow the engine to 4-cycle during break-in. Afterward, when engine components have been stess-relieved and bedded in through heat-cycling, the wearing effect of 4-cycling will be minimized.

HomeDawwg

WRONG!!!! At least if we are talking about the hyper engine (not sure what engine that is). In that picture the LSN label is actually pointing to the middle speed needle, which shouldnt really be touched!

The LSN is actually on the other side of the car, should be inside a rubber boot. Either way your manual should have a picture, as this one is wrong.