XRay XB808 thread.
#1
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Post pics of your 808, what you think of the 808, any tips for tuning/building or just anything you want to say about the best buggy ever made!!!
#4
Great car.
The plastic piece that hold the throttle linkage on the servo arm needs to be flipped the other way holding the linkage further away from the servo.
The lower brake linkage needs bent a little or it will drag. The brake lever is lower than the servo arm. Use the left over 1mm Al bumpsteer shim to lower the lower brake linkage on the servo arm.
Take your time threading screws into new plastic. I've got mechaninc hands and even mine were numb after a few pages. Take your time and use grease or oil on the threads. Once the screw has been installed it goes in and out easy, but the first time cutting threads in plastic strong as steel is tough.
Build the car with a tonys screw kit. Use good drivers. I use Hudy SAE drivers. The only metric driver this kit needs is 1.5mm, standard for everything else. Keep the supplied xray screws as spares.
Keep brake caliper play to a minimum. .5mm space tops as the instructions say. They pads should seem like they are dragging, but once they are in the car it'll be smooth.
Didn't need to shim the diffs.
My setup:
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...15&setup=xb808



The plastic piece that hold the throttle linkage on the servo arm needs to be flipped the other way holding the linkage further away from the servo.
The lower brake linkage needs bent a little or it will drag. The brake lever is lower than the servo arm. Use the left over 1mm Al bumpsteer shim to lower the lower brake linkage on the servo arm.
Take your time threading screws into new plastic. I've got mechaninc hands and even mine were numb after a few pages. Take your time and use grease or oil on the threads. Once the screw has been installed it goes in and out easy, but the first time cutting threads in plastic strong as steel is tough.
Build the car with a tonys screw kit. Use good drivers. I use Hudy SAE drivers. The only metric driver this kit needs is 1.5mm, standard for everything else. Keep the supplied xray screws as spares.
Keep brake caliper play to a minimum. .5mm space tops as the instructions say. They pads should seem like they are dragging, but once they are in the car it'll be smooth.
Didn't need to shim the diffs.
My setup:
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...15&setup=xb808



#5
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Thats a nice looking car with just a simple paint job. Should i buy the dish style rims or are the rims that come with the buggy good?</p>
#6
Thanks the 809 has good lines and a real small body. Simple looks best. One or two stripes. I prefere to run fresh bodies as often as I can. So I keep my paint simple.
Pure bred race car, deosnt come with tires.
Get Aka premounts, Gridirons and Ibeams in soft.
Don't use set screws in the cvds. not needed.
Pure bred race car, deosnt come with tires.
Get Aka premounts, Gridirons and Ibeams in soft.
Don't use set screws in the cvds. not needed.
#7
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From: San Diego but living in Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATE
Zerodefect, In the first picture, what is that blue spring looking thing (squiggle?) below the turnbuckle? Thanks
#8
ORIGINAL: tommygun32
Zerodefect, In the first picture, what is that blue spring looking thing (squiggle?) below the turnbuckle? Thanks
Zerodefect, In the first picture, what is that blue spring looking thing (squiggle?) below the turnbuckle? Thanks
Its TAG body spray.
No, actually it the letter M. For Medium compound. I write the compound type inside the wheel with a blue sharpie so I don't get my tires mixed up.
#10
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From: nicosia, CYPRUS
body has seen much better days but car is well maintained and works flawlessly. Slightly dusty but these are pics the next day after a race i had just finished cleaning the whell hubs and their bearings....





sorry it took me so long...





sorry it took me so long...
#11
Active diffs are a nightmare to build and maintain.
When you build them, if they lock up real bad, thats because the side gear and the bevel ring are binding up and not installed down all the way. The guts are stuck apart and too thick, and the diff locks up as the screws are tightened.
Even worse is that after tightening those screws, and realizing it, it's too late. The pressure from the screws pressed the side gear and crooked bevel ring together and they are siezed and you will not be able to remove them to fix the problem.
A way to be sure that that is the problem. Remove the 4 spider gears and cross pins. Put the diff together with very little fluid and no spidergears or cross pins. Is it still bound up?
If it is, the easy solution to knock the side gear and bevel ring together is to set the diff outdrive down ,without the spiders and cross pins installed, on top of a block of steel or vice. Tap the on the other outdrive gently with a 14once steell ball peen hammer. That should reseat the bevel ring and side gears and the diff should free up.
Keep in mind that if you hold the diff carrier and spin one of the outdrives it's supposed to bind up some. I'm talking about holding one outdrive and not being able to spin the other.
I dont know why Xray choose to make the bevel ring and side gear two pieces. Maybe they are a different matrerial or something. They have different coatings.
When you build them, if they lock up real bad, thats because the side gear and the bevel ring are binding up and not installed down all the way. The guts are stuck apart and too thick, and the diff locks up as the screws are tightened.
Even worse is that after tightening those screws, and realizing it, it's too late. The pressure from the screws pressed the side gear and crooked bevel ring together and they are siezed and you will not be able to remove them to fix the problem.
A way to be sure that that is the problem. Remove the 4 spider gears and cross pins. Put the diff together with very little fluid and no spidergears or cross pins. Is it still bound up?
If it is, the easy solution to knock the side gear and bevel ring together is to set the diff outdrive down ,without the spiders and cross pins installed, on top of a block of steel or vice. Tap the on the other outdrive gently with a 14once steell ball peen hammer. That should reseat the bevel ring and side gears and the diff should free up.
Keep in mind that if you hold the diff carrier and spin one of the outdrives it's supposed to bind up some. I'm talking about holding one outdrive and not being able to spin the other.
I dont know why Xray choose to make the bevel ring and side gear two pieces. Maybe they are a different matrerial or something. They have different coatings.
#13
ORIGINAL: breezerboat
What exact color of green is that buggy? What brand of paint?
What exact color of green is that buggy? What brand of paint?
Your going to steal my signature paint scheme? Ok, but only if you use it Texas. (not Ohio)
Its Pactra spray can Neon Green with Neon White backing it. You have to be careful not to spray it on too thick. If you do it gets too dark. You can see that the Slash is a little too dark.
Neon yellow and Neon blue also have a clean look with White and black.
#14
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From: Austin,
TX
It looks good. I'm not stealing it completely, just the green color. I'll be doing it a little different. And I doubt I will ever be racing outside of Texas.
Thank you
Thank you
#15
Think I found a really fast setup for technical hardpacked dusty tracks:
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...26&setup=xb808
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...26&setup=xb808
#20
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From: Itatiba - SP, BRAZIL
Reviving the topic!!!
I just got the 2010 spec kit and am ready to assemble it. But before starting any good tip? I already read the whole manual, know there were issues with the diffs and also I am not a complete dummy to RC because I“ve been bashing a Inferno 7.5 for some years now.
Along with the kit I also ordered some upgrades like alu front shock tower, firmer springs, servo horns, plastic protectors and fuel filter
Something special to pay attention on?
I just got the 2010 spec kit and am ready to assemble it. But before starting any good tip? I already read the whole manual, know there were issues with the diffs and also I am not a complete dummy to RC because I“ve been bashing a Inferno 7.5 for some years now.
Along with the kit I also ordered some upgrades like alu front shock tower, firmer springs, servo horns, plastic protectors and fuel filter
Something special to pay attention on?
#21
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From: , TX
I like the idea of a setup/tips thread. I'm contemplating getting back into the hobby and am looking at the 2011 version of the XB808.
This will be my second nitro car, but first AWD and after reading the above the only thing I'm worried about during the build thread are the diffs.
That's a bit concerning to read to someone that's thinking about picking an 808 up.
What are the maintainance issues with the diffs?
This will be my second nitro car, but first AWD and after reading the above the only thing I'm worried about during the build thread are the diffs.
ORIGINAL: Zerodefect
Active diffs are a nightmare to build and maintain.
When you build them, if they lock up real bad, thats because the side gear and the bevel ring are binding up and not installed down all the way. The guts are stuck apart and too thick, and the diff locks up as the screws are tightened.
Active diffs are a nightmare to build and maintain.
When you build them, if they lock up real bad, thats because the side gear and the bevel ring are binding up and not installed down all the way. The guts are stuck apart and too thick, and the diff locks up as the screws are tightened.
What are the maintainance issues with the diffs?
#22
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From: Itatiba - SP, BRAZIL
ORIGINAL: TX_Punisher
I like the idea of a setup/tips thread. I'm contemplating getting back into the hobby and am looking at the 2011 version of the XB808.
This will be my second nitro car, but first AWD and after reading the above the only thing I'm worried about during the build thread are the diffs.
That's a bit concerning to read to someone that's thinking about picking an 808 up.
What are the maintainance issues with the diffs?
I like the idea of a setup/tips thread. I'm contemplating getting back into the hobby and am looking at the 2011 version of the XB808.
This will be my second nitro car, but first AWD and after reading the above the only thing I'm worried about during the build thread are the diffs.
ORIGINAL: Zerodefect
Active diffs are a nightmare to build and maintain.
When you build them, if they lock up real bad, thats because the side gear and the bevel ring are binding up and not installed down all the way. The guts are stuck apart and too thick, and the diff locks up as the screws are tightened.
Active diffs are a nightmare to build and maintain.
When you build them, if they lock up real bad, thats because the side gear and the bevel ring are binding up and not installed down all the way. The guts are stuck apart and too thick, and the diff locks up as the screws are tightened.
What are the maintainance issues with the diffs?
What I can tell you is to not worry about AWD since you got a good car. I like xray the most but can“t deny Losi , Mugen , AE , Kyo and JQ are also excelent cars. I have a MP 7.5 now.
If you look around you will see 95% of the xray owners happy and saying the maintanance of xray is very lowm, even if you are competing.
#23
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From: , TX
I visit the XRAY site but as of late it doesn't seem like there's been much chatter on the site.
I'll keep an eye on it, though, as the 2011 version hits the USA.
I'll keep an eye on it, though, as the 2011 version hits the USA.
#24
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From: Itatiba - SP, BRAZIL
ORIGINAL: Oskr
Reviving the topic!!!
I just got the 2010 spec kit and am ready to assemble it. But before starting any good tip? I already read the whole manual, know there were issues with the diffs and also I am not a complete dummy to RC because I“ve been bashing a Inferno 7.5 for some years now.
Along with the kit I also ordered some upgrades like alu front shock tower, firmer springs, servo horns, plastic protectors and fuel filter
Something special to pay attention on?
Reviving the topic!!!
I just got the 2010 spec kit and am ready to assemble it. But before starting any good tip? I already read the whole manual, know there were issues with the diffs and also I am not a complete dummy to RC because I“ve been bashing a Inferno 7.5 for some years now.
Along with the kit I also ordered some upgrades like alu front shock tower, firmer springs, servo horns, plastic protectors and fuel filter
Something special to pay attention on?




