RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Racing update:

Our local track has enough entries to run separate electric and nitro 1/8th scale mains, and I converted my RC8 over the winter.  Yesterday there was a field of 8 in the electric main, and the top spot was taken by the other RC8 pilot.  He's running the "limited edition" kit and a MMM/Castle 2200 setup.  I was running in a close second, unfortunately I dropped out just before the seven minute mark(ten minute main) when my pinion spun off the motor shaft(stupid loctite let go).  I am running an RS rtr entirely stock except for the FT electric conversion kit and MMM/2200 power.  Last time I ran the main w/o running the heat race and came out third, first time racing the car as an electric.  I like this car.:D

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Quick question.. My steering servo - Hitec 5945 - recently crapped out in my RC8. So I replaced it with a Hitec 5955, took it to the track yesterday, and now it's way oversteering.. Really quick to spin out and do really tight donuts.. I dialled down the EPA as far as %75, but it was still just steering differently than before.. With the 5945 I could really glide through the turns, but with the new servo it feels totally different and my driving is really sloppy with it.. What's up?? What do I need to adjust? Thanks..

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

try adjusting the servo saver and either lower the epa down to 60% or if in your radio you can adjust the servo speeds, then set that to like 80%

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Does your radio have exponential? If so, that would help by softening the response around center while allowing full travel. This is the way I like to tune my steering.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

It's no factory team version but it's a well built RC8. Soon to have a MMM/2200 in it unless I find a killer deal on a tekin setup. So far everything has been bought used and I'm up to about $320 for the RC8, the 7955tg, and the RCM chassis kit (no battery tray).

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...C8/Picture.jpg

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Im wondering what others think about these two kits. I currently have the MP9 and think its a really good setup but wanted to try out the RC8B due to the fact I like the layout better and it looks easier to work in some areas.

Would be nice to here the pros and cons from some of you that have driven both. I like how free my drivetrain is on the MP9. Will this be the same on the RC8B?

Thanks

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

One would think sticking with the MP9 is going to be a lighter buggy and over all have better quality parts.

I think I'm going to setting on a Tekin 3D 1700kv motor running on 5s for my project build.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

I've heard and seen pics that the new RC8B has a better part and build quality.. S'posed to be pretty impressive..

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

yeah i would spring for the RC8B, that is if i had the money

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

I had a look at the RC8B and it looks to be better quality than the mp9 I have. Less slop all around and removing diffs is easy and fast on the rc8b.
Im reall imressed with the quality of the AE kit and the price of parts and such. Happy to have one now :D

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

question I was tearing down my AE Pro .28 that came with my rtr and noticed no head shim present, is there suppose to be one? second I plan on running 30% nitro so a Shim should be required or am I way off base thanx in advance to all who respond

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

There is a shim, it's aluminum and prob stuck to the head. If I remember correctly it was somewhere
in the 0.015 range. I added another 0.008 for 30% and it ran fine. I always used an MC59 hot plug
in mine and without the added shim it detonated on 30%. Why the switch? I only changed over
since everyone at my club track ran Byrons 30% and fuel bottles tended to get mixed up during
warmups and pit stops. In other words I was going to get a tank of 30% sooner or later on
accident so I just made the switch before it happened during a race. Other than being more
expensive and getting worse run time your going to notice very little difference. You might want
to call AE service department and see what they recommend for head space on 30%.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

going to make the switch for almost the same type of reason me and my buddy both have bought these cars and he is already running 30% and we go halves on fuel, and he orderd 4 gal of byrons we gotta work on our team commo LOL, but I have done alot of reading on this and many people say 30 % percent will give you cooler temps slight performance improvements but being from the high desert in cal the cool temps are my main goal.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

30% should in theory make more power,but remember your lowering you compresion
ratio to run it so your losing power there. As far as temps being lower I think there are
just to many variables as far as lubrication packages that change when moving from
20 to 30%. Even if you use fuel from the same manufactuer they will change oil content
% between the 20 and 30.

The Pro .28 is much better suited to a monter truck than a buggy so when you start really
leaning on them they will run hot. My V-Spec runs well at 200, nice even full smoke trail,
220 is rippin pretty good with just a little less smoke, 240 is clean, snappy and will prob
eat the plug if I run it out of fuel. My Pro .28 didnt even come alive till 220 and usually
temped at around 250-270 on race days in the summer heat. Point is you can't tune with
temps. Tune by sound and smoke trail not by temps. Once you get it tuned you can temp
it just for reference.

One of the biggest problems I see with alot of engines that seem to run hotter than normal
or just keep getting hotter the longer you run them is getting the idle gap to big and the bottom
end needle to rich to cover it. The idle gap for a Pro.28 should be between .50-.75mm. A small
guage paper clip is around .75mm so if you pull your air cleaner and bend the paper clip out
straight the end should just barely or not quite fit into the gap.

Here is a really good repost of something Ron Paris wrote that will help you if your temps
are out of control.

[link=http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/295490-tuning-bible.html]Ron Paris Tuning Bible[/link]

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

I just stripped my clutch bell some how and i need a new one and I was wondering if I should go with the 16 tooth bell or switch to the 17 tooth. I need more acceleration than top speed so, I'm not sure which one I want to go with.
Thanks guys

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Depends on what your after. Yes the 17 will give more topend but it will also
smooth out the motor a bit on slippery tracks. A 16 will give more punch,but can
be a bit of a handful on a lowgrip surface. If you can only afford one I would just
get another AE 16t as this is prob the best all round gearing. Most of the rest can be
done with you clutch.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

ok, i'll stick with the 16t:)

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

could someone help im getting a hyper 7 tq sport is this a good fast buggy as new to rcing the engine is a 21 in it

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Hey guys,

If anyone has a AS89063 shock bladder laying around (clear/white) could someone please, please, please tell me the rough size of it (width while as round as you can get)? How deep it is would be nice too.

Thank you!

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

I'm assuming you mean the small bore bladders. Your in luck since i never ran em in my shocks.

The ID of the FT shock caps where the bladders sit is 14.35mm the bladder is a slight press
fit into the cap and measures out at about 15.25 mm at its largest point. The OD just under
the lip is 13.45mm. Total height is 5.25mm.

These are not perfect measurements since the bladders deflect with very little
pressure but I think these are what you where looking for.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Wow, thanks JSK. It just says Associated RC8: Shock Bladders (8pcs) (AS89063) (Team Associated RC8/T)


The ones I have are approx 14mm OD and 5mm height, sounds like they would work. I know what you mean about them changing shape when measuring, I just rounded to the closest :).

Edit: Took a chance and just ordered them, I really do hope they fit...

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

I just got an rc8 ft for $299 from rc10.com, im kinda worried and kinda not... Is this still neccasary to do? Is therc8ft that bad? you guys make it sound like its a peice of s$^#

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

I had no problems with my top plate.

You replace it with an aluminum one if it bugs you. I never did but I'm fairly certain the black al top plate from the T works.

There is nothing wrong with the Rc8 that a little tuning can't fix. I used the worlds setup with 555 in the diffs. Do you have the bigbores on your kit? That will be a good future mod.

The thing that drove me away from AE/Losi and towards Xray/Mugen was the Xray/Mugen plastic wears slower.

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

No I dont have a BB kit, but is it really neccasary? I read that BB's provide no advantage from many others?

RE: THE ASSOCIATED RC8 THREAD!
 

Well guys I,m thinking about getting back into 1/8th Buggies.
I,m heavily leaning towards getting a RC8B Factory Team buggy.
My question is are there significant differences between the RC8 and the RC8B FT ?

thx
Dave