If you read my post "Disaster at High Seas" I'm wondering if this isn't the problem.
I'm having a hard time starting my MDS .48.
I'm using an electric starter.
As I was putting things away for the night, I noticed oil dripping from the muffler. More than usual.
This is the question:
Is that a sign of "Flooding"???
Thanks.
Sirwalter

CAn be. But if you have a line running from the muffler to the fuel tank. You could have gotten fuel in that way also.

I had trouble starting my Pro 46 after dumping it in teh water. I had to run about 3 tanks of fuel through it and change the glow plug before it would run right.

Never thought of chaging the plug. Duh...!
I'll do it first think tomorrow.
Thanks

Oil dripping from the muffler is okay in most cases if it isn't a huge amount. As the oil in the fuel doesn't really burn with the alcohol but rather it separates and lubricates all the parts. This means that oil will acumulate in the muffle due to it's shape, and if the model is placed on an incline oil will drip out. Also, 2 stroke engines spew a lot of fuel right out of the exhaust and some of this accumulates in the muffler and due to the heat the alcohol evapourates and leaves behind the oil. If your engine is flooding them there will be lots of fuel, not just oil in the muffler, to fix this simmply spill it all out of the muffler and keep trying to start it.

How much time /fuel do you have through the MDS.

One of the things that frustrates most people about these engines is they require a rather lengthy break-in period. Why?......I don't know.

I have three MDS myself. Two .18's and a .40. The .18's were not too bad. Used up about 1/2 gallon each for break in. The .40 took longer and more fuel in comparison.

It seems the metalurgy of these Russian powerhouses is a bit different than what most are used too. Also, the taper angle of the piston and sleeve is a bit different than usual. (less taper and more parallel surface area)Even though these are NOT ringed engines, they need to be broken in as such. Very rich and for short periods of time. Keeping it below the prime operating temp is key. Don't let it heat up too much before shutting it down. MOst folks don't like this brand for this reason. Those that try to push the break-in process, end up doing damage. Those that take the time to break it in properly, benefit from the power available from these engines.

I honestly don't know how much brake in time the engine has. I bought it used.
I had the engine running at one time vary good. Before the dump.
I have run about a quart of fuel myself.

OK....I didn't realize the engine was dumped.

There still may be some water hidden inside somewhere, engine or tank.

Let them dry as much as possible. Check, or better yet, replace the presure line, fuel line and even the pick-up line inside the tank. A pinhole or tear could have developed inn one of those lines. Definately change the plug.

Most of all, give it some time to run back in.It may take one tank, it may take ten. Water can get into the most seamingly impossible places real quick. It will just take time to get it out.

Ditto on what Mark said , and also , whenever you dump , a good system to follow , after a LONG dump is :

1) dump out any and all water from engine as soon as possible .
2) dump the fuel thats in the fuel cell
3) replace the fuel with new ( but NOT a full tank , only a couple ounces )
4) fire her up and run her till hot , then shut her down till you get home
5) when you get the boat home , take the engine apart ( muffler , con , crank , piston , sleeve AND carb , remove the needle(s) from the carb as well ) then take a blow dryer and dry the heck outta them . ( or , let set overnight in a heated area inside , or out in the sun on a hot day )
6) remove and replace the glow plug ( as long as you have a spare handy )
7) replace any and all fuel lines ( again , like Mark said .. ) even IN the fuel cell
8) let set till cool ( if you did the blow dryer thingy ) and spray some WD40 on EVERYTHING , put her back together and fire her up , tune her in and you should be good to go .

Pending on your knowledge of these small engines , you should take the entire thing totally apart to clean/remove any water that may still remain .

( oh yeah ... FTR ---- I'm not an engine pro , just one who dabbles with them )

How hard is it to take apart a little engine?

When I dumped mine. I just pulled the glow plug, put the starter to it, blew all the water out. Drained ths fuel. Changed the plug. Fired it up. Did I hurt anything?[X(]

Hi,

Just a thought, and chances are you've already checked, but I thought I should ask you to make sure your input line is connected to the carburetor. If the lines are reversed, and you fill the tank, you can force fuel into the muffler. The other sympton that will appear, is the motor will only run for a short period of time.

Let us know what you find out in the end.

Best regards,

Wayne Miller

Thanks a bunch for all the advice from everyone.
I dn't have the working knowdlege to completely disassemble an engine, but I think I could get most of it apart.
I have removed the sleeve and wiped it down, but that's as far as I went.
I have a new plug but havn't fired it up yet.
Thanks again.
Sirwalter

The important thing to remember when removing the piston and sleeve ........make sure you put it back in EXACTLY the way it came out. If you reverse the sleeve, it generally wont run, or run very badly. If the sleeve has a recess for the crank counterbalance, it's gonna hit and do damage.

Same with the piston. Some piston/rod assemblies use a little spring or sur-clip to hold the piston pin in place. If the piston is put in backwards, it can catch a port and ruin your day for a long time. Some piston skirts have reliefs on the bottom edge for crankshaft clearance, or port timings.

BEFORE you remove the piston OR the sleeve, mark it with a marker (do not scratch a mark) and remember the way it came out.