Help !! on Build
#1
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Hi guys,
I am new to RC boat building although i done plenty of other RC modelling, Just puzzled on this issue need some advice & help with a dilemma please
I have a Commercial fibreglass hull of English East coast drifter from around 1918. The Hull length 47" Beam is 9" depth of hull 6.5" But hows the best way for me to work out the contoured shape of the bulk heads from the fibreglass hull i have, my plans are not to scale,
I am new to RC boat building although i done plenty of other RC modelling, Just puzzled on this issue need some advice & help with a dilemma please
I have a Commercial fibreglass hull of English East coast drifter from around 1918. The Hull length 47" Beam is 9" depth of hull 6.5" But hows the best way for me to work out the contoured shape of the bulk heads from the fibreglass hull i have, my plans are not to scale,
#3

Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Generally speaking, you don't need a lot of bulkheads in a fibreglass hull. Inwhales to fit the deck to the hull, cross beams to fit the deck to, the FG is generally strong enough to look after itself. But a contour gauge from the decorating section of any DIY store will do the job.
#4

Hi Bob1307
Scan the bulkheads from the plans and save them as PDF files.
Measure the bulkheads in mm's and to get to 6.5 inches(165mm) calculate the % difference and in the printer setup you can custom print to the required size.
Not allow for the fibreglass thickness.
The fibreglass hulls I use to make only required decking frames and a stringer around the inside between.
One of the customer's ask about the strength, so I weighted to the water line, lifted it to waist height and dropped it into the water!!
Dam nearly sunk but pop back up with no water in the hull and no cracks(no deck frames install at the test).
Scan the bulkheads from the plans and save them as PDF files.
Measure the bulkheads in mm's and to get to 6.5 inches(165mm) calculate the % difference and in the printer setup you can custom print to the required size.
Not allow for the fibreglass thickness.
The fibreglass hulls I use to make only required decking frames and a stringer around the inside between.
One of the customer's ask about the strength, so I weighted to the water line, lifted it to waist height and dropped it into the water!!
Dam nearly sunk but pop back up with no water in the hull and no cracks(no deck frames install at the test).
#6
I'd still add at least two bulkheads, if nothing else, to minimize the possibility of flexing in the hull along it's length. While I agree with canabus in that they probably aren't needed, IF there's a thin spot in the layup, that is where flexing will crack the hull first. It is also cheap insurance against flooding the whole hull if something does happen and the boat starts taking on water



