speed controller
02-19-2019, 06:55 PM
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speed controller
Hello i have a question who is much better knowledge than me ,I am wondering what type of ESC most scale boat fellow prefer to use and why ? I have try use twice venon 40amp esc and i am not big fan of the ESC ,it make my motor run very rough and high pitch frequency on low idle ,at first i though i have connected it wrong !!! I also try solder noise suppressor capacitors fitted to the brushed motor ,yet the result have make no different ,So another option i have to use is to removed from my another tug boat which is Robbe rookie navy esc ,Problem is all gone both motor run very smooth on throttle none what so ever on the frequency low idle noise issue. and they rated for 35 Amp .And i have two of those esc that i bought 18 years ago LOL ! and have since been discontinue esc ,My question is what do u guy prefer to use ? And i have heard the Novak rooster is also another good esc for boat as well and they also has been long discontinue item . Hopefully someone in the forum can recommander me a nice ESC ,I am building 1/72 fleet scale royal navy battle ship .
02-19-2019, 11:58 PM
#2
This is a question that really needs to be asked in either the scale or electric forums as those areas will have people that build and run electric boats.
With that said, you have to make sure your ESC and motors "match". Motors come in various types and styles and, unfortunately, they don't all work the same. This means that the motor you have has to have an ESC that will supply it with the right kind of power to make it work properly. The ESC in your tug apparently matches the power requirements of your warship's motors, where the ESC you purchased for it doesn't. I don't know enough about the various motors and ESCs so I can't take this any further. What I do know is that, to help you further, those that run electric boats will need to know what motors and which ESC you have. I know you said it was a Venon but there is more information they will need to know than the brand name. As far as the motors, they will need to know the brand, RPM/volt ratings, etc.
With that said, you have to make sure your ESC and motors "match". Motors come in various types and styles and, unfortunately, they don't all work the same. This means that the motor you have has to have an ESC that will supply it with the right kind of power to make it work properly. The ESC in your tug apparently matches the power requirements of your warship's motors, where the ESC you purchased for it doesn't. I don't know enough about the various motors and ESCs so I can't take this any further. What I do know is that, to help you further, those that run electric boats will need to know what motors and which ESC you have. I know you said it was a Venon but there is more information they will need to know than the brand name. As far as the motors, they will need to know the brand, RPM/volt ratings, etc.
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 02-20-2019 at 12:02 AM.
02-20-2019, 03:10 AM
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Old time speed controls for electric motors consisted of a variable resistor that had to be perfectly matched to the motor. Silent operation, but wasted a lot of power, the heat was good for drying out a boat that might ship some water.
The first electronic variation used a power transistor instead of the resistor, and also wasted a lot of heat.
Then real ESCs hit the market using power switching to control the average current to the motor. Good control is the motor could be controlled that way, veery efficient power use, but a tendency to speak. A loudspeaker is a coil near a magnet being fed with a varying waveform and wobbling about in symathy with that wave. So is a motor, the difference being that the motor coil moves on and presents the next coil to the magnet ready for the next bit of waveform. Early ESCs ran on frame frequency, 50Hz, and the motors rumbled. Modern ESCs run at a much higher frequency because higher freqencies can use smaller components, be more compact and cost less, but the motor tends to whistle. Most operate at a frequency right in the middle of the band that human hearing works best at, a few are higher pitched so most humans don't hear it.
"Noise supression" has nothing to do with audible sounds, the "noise" is radio frequency signals that are generated by the motor as it works. The supressors isolate the motor from the wiring, which otherwise acts as a transmitter aerial, confusing the radio either by getting into the system via the receiver antenna, or being picked up by other wiring in the boat and entering the system that way.
I have had lots of success with Mtronics Viper Marine range, also Action Electronics ESCs, MR RC World controls. Which particular one depends on the model being powered. None in the cheap end of the market, but you usually only need to buy once, and their ratings are actual, rather than optimistic marks on the label, as is often the case with some ebay items.
The first electronic variation used a power transistor instead of the resistor, and also wasted a lot of heat.
Then real ESCs hit the market using power switching to control the average current to the motor. Good control is the motor could be controlled that way, veery efficient power use, but a tendency to speak. A loudspeaker is a coil near a magnet being fed with a varying waveform and wobbling about in symathy with that wave. So is a motor, the difference being that the motor coil moves on and presents the next coil to the magnet ready for the next bit of waveform. Early ESCs ran on frame frequency, 50Hz, and the motors rumbled. Modern ESCs run at a much higher frequency because higher freqencies can use smaller components, be more compact and cost less, but the motor tends to whistle. Most operate at a frequency right in the middle of the band that human hearing works best at, a few are higher pitched so most humans don't hear it.
"Noise supression" has nothing to do with audible sounds, the "noise" is radio frequency signals that are generated by the motor as it works. The supressors isolate the motor from the wiring, which otherwise acts as a transmitter aerial, confusing the radio either by getting into the system via the receiver antenna, or being picked up by other wiring in the boat and entering the system that way.
I have had lots of success with Mtronics Viper Marine range, also Action Electronics ESCs, MR RC World controls. Which particular one depends on the model being powered. None in the cheap end of the market, but you usually only need to buy once, and their ratings are actual, rather than optimistic marks on the label, as is often the case with some ebay items.
02-21-2019, 05:27 AM
#4
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You identify an ESC intended for brushless motors and then state you're using a brushed motor with it. Bozo No No! You need to read up on brushed and brushless and the ESCs that support them.
One of the things most people want in a boat is reverse. Not all ESCs do this and in particular not all brushless ESCs. So you need to decide what type motor you're going to use and proceed accordingly. Nothing wrong with using brushed motors in your application. More options IMHO for boating use.
One of the things most people want in a boat is reverse. Not all ESCs do this and in particular not all brushless ESCs. So you need to decide what type motor you're going to use and proceed accordingly. Nothing wrong with using brushed motors in your application. More options IMHO for boating use.
Last edited by Appowner; 02-21-2019 at 05:31 AM.
02-21-2019, 06:46 PM
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guys thx for the great info ! really appericate . I am using brushes motor rpm 13,000 , I try the Robbe Navy speed control again ,the result is best ESC i have experiance .
too bad it has been discontinue .if anyone selling it let me know .
too bad it has been discontinue .if anyone selling it let me know .
02-22-2019, 02:21 AM
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Since I had never heard of a venon 40amp esc I just let it slip by - there are a lot of little known names around. A very visible difference betwen brushed and brushless ESCs is the number of motor leads, two on a brushed one, three on a brushless. It would be interesting to know what the third lead was connected to.
The makes I referred to earlier are all good substitutes for the Robbe unit, and all are primarily directed at controlling boats using brushed motors.
The makes I referred to earlier are all good substitutes for the Robbe unit, and all are primarily directed at controlling boats using brushed motors.
