Multiple servos, one channel
#1
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Hello,
I would like to know how it would be possible to opperate 4 car sized (the ones that are usually included with 2 channel surface radios) servos with a single channel on the reciever. I am assuming that it is not going to be as easy as simply purchasing 3 "Y" adaptors. I have a feeling that the power requirements of the servos is going to be to much for the reciever to handle, and cause it to release the magic smoke.
Is the solution as simple as connecting the signal wires for all of the servos to the reciever and supplying power from a seperate battery pack through the power leads?
Another question is is it possible to reverse the direction of a servo by changing the polarity of the power leads?
Thank you very much,
Greg
I would like to know how it would be possible to opperate 4 car sized (the ones that are usually included with 2 channel surface radios) servos with a single channel on the reciever. I am assuming that it is not going to be as easy as simply purchasing 3 "Y" adaptors. I have a feeling that the power requirements of the servos is going to be to much for the reciever to handle, and cause it to release the magic smoke.
Is the solution as simple as connecting the signal wires for all of the servos to the reciever and supplying power from a seperate battery pack through the power leads?
Another question is is it possible to reverse the direction of a servo by changing the polarity of the power leads?
Thank you very much,
Greg
#2

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If a series of y-harnesses won't work for you, and you use Futaba compatible equipment, Futaba has come out with a Servo Synchronizer that would work very well here. This box plugs into one channel of your receiver, with up to 4 outputs. All 4 outputs (to servos) can be reversed individually, as well as centering and ATV.
JR has one too, I think, called a Matchbox.
If your transmitter is a higher end programmable type, you could add each servo to, example, 5, 6, 7, 8, then mix the signals... In this case, the above mentioned hardware would not be needed
JR has one too, I think, called a Matchbox.
If your transmitter is a higher end programmable type, you could add each servo to, example, 5, 6, 7, 8, then mix the signals... In this case, the above mentioned hardware would not be needed
#3

My Feedback: (1)

Why do this? Figuring at $15.00 a pop for a standard servo, for $60.00 you can get one that would more than handle the job. Four sevos take up a lot of space unless you have the room.
Most of the newer servos are all pretty much universal now, one of the exceptions being the older Airtronics which now come with a "Z" connector. Yes, it is possible to swap wire leads, I've done it a lot.
Most of the newer servos are all pretty much universal now, one of the exceptions being the older Airtronics which now come with a "Z" connector. Yes, it is possible to swap wire leads, I've done it a lot.
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ORIGINAL: Ron S
If a series of y-harnesses won't work for you, and you use Futaba compatible equipment, Futaba has come out with a Servo Synchronizer that would work very well here. This box plugs into one channel of your receiver, with up to 4 outputs. All 4 outputs (to servos) can be reversed individually, as well as centering and ATV.
JR has one too, I think, called a Matchbox.
If your transmitter is a higher end programmable type, you could add each servo to, example, 5, 6, 7, 8, then mix the signals... In this case, the above mentioned hardware would not be needed
If a series of y-harnesses won't work for you, and you use Futaba compatible equipment, Futaba has come out with a Servo Synchronizer that would work very well here. This box plugs into one channel of your receiver, with up to 4 outputs. All 4 outputs (to servos) can be reversed individually, as well as centering and ATV.
JR has one too, I think, called a Matchbox.
If your transmitter is a higher end programmable type, you could add each servo to, example, 5, 6, 7, 8, then mix the signals... In this case, the above mentioned hardware would not be needed
ORIGINAL: Ron Olson
Why do this? Figuring at $15.00 a pop for a standard servo, for $60.00 you can get one that would more than handle the job. Four sevos take up a lot of space unless you have the room.
Most of the newer servos are all pretty much universal now, one of the exceptions being the older Airtronics which now come with a "Z" connector. Yes, it is possible to swap wire leads, I've done it a lot.
Why do this? Figuring at $15.00 a pop for a standard servo, for $60.00 you can get one that would more than handle the job. Four sevos take up a lot of space unless you have the room.
Most of the newer servos are all pretty much universal now, one of the exceptions being the older Airtronics which now come with a "Z" connector. Yes, it is possible to swap wire leads, I've done it a lot.
It sounds like you know alot more about what I am building that I do. A single servo is completely impractical due to the necesity of haveing numerous bell cranks to do it. It would be easier to use 4 standard servos (of which I have quite a few from buying radios over the years, so there is no cost to them) directly actuating, than 1 heavy duty servo (that I would need to buy) with a complete mess of linkages. Not to mention the headach of finding the percise center of rotation/pitch of the moving parts so as not to introduce unwanted throw at the end point of the linkage. Not to mention the "loose" nature of a set up with many short linkage runs between bellcranks.
Its generally more practical to ask questions instead of making assumptions.
Cheers,
Greg
#5

My Feedback: (1)

OK, the question that I should have asked you in the first place, what are you installing these in? Even large rudders or a decently sized outboard really don't need a whole lot. Hi-Tec for instance makes standard sized servos that can put out a lot of torque for their size and at a reasonable price.
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Its a scale application. They are going to be running "ambiance". Specifically, elevation of four water gun turrets.
cheeRS,
Greg
cheeRS,
Greg
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Hello,
Its not much yet. I am still planning. Here is an 8" x .130" (I have found that not much stock is metric
) and the drawing/s of a transmission plate. The aluminum will be also used for bulkheads. I have not recieved the square tube yet to connect the bulk heads. I am getting alot closer to just floating a small 12 volt battery (lawn mower sized) to run eveything that I keep adding on to what I want to do. [sm=lol.gif]

Cheers,
Greg
Its not much yet. I am still planning. Here is an 8" x .130" (I have found that not much stock is metric

Cheers,
Greg
#9

I can't quite make out the drawing.
You are going to build it out of Metal?
That is a challenge. I can't do welding, especially aluminium, so I glue wood instead.
Do you have plans for your boat?
Here is what I am building.
Umi
You are going to build it out of Metal?
That is a challenge. I can't do welding, especially aluminium, so I glue wood instead.
Do you have plans for your boat?
Here is what I am building.
Umi
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There are no plans. Los Angles number 2 looks just like that. I was going to build it simularly as I liked the modern look of it. Less of a tug boat with water cannons on it.
THe drawings are essentially just a couple of plates with a few holes in them. I am using a belt driven RC car for parts. Instead of using gears, I thought that i would use belts since I have a couple of cars lying around.
I haven't decided if I would do the hul out of aluminum or not. I am leaning towards using wood with a thin layer of fiberglass. I am just uning aluminum for the bulkheads and the connecting them together to have it be sturdy while being transported. The deck (and everything above it) will be wood, plastic, or what ever small things such as rope or brass.
Cheers,
Greg
THe drawings are essentially just a couple of plates with a few holes in them. I am using a belt driven RC car for parts. Instead of using gears, I thought that i would use belts since I have a couple of cars lying around.
I haven't decided if I would do the hul out of aluminum or not. I am leaning towards using wood with a thin layer of fiberglass. I am just uning aluminum for the bulkheads and the connecting them together to have it be sturdy while being transported. The deck (and everything above it) will be wood, plastic, or what ever small things such as rope or brass.
Cheers,
Greg
#11

I am building the Fire boat #2, if you need frame plans for the Los Angeles Fire boat #2 I drew them up, and they coordinate with the plans available online.
You might have to modify it a bit for regular propeller drive though.
[8D][8D]
Umi
You might have to modify it a bit for regular propeller drive though.
[8D][8D]
Umi