Yowza

Techyjoe -

Thanks mate, to put the Youtube vids on the forum just click the Youtube icon in the comment editor and past the URL in between. Nice and easy.

My water intake & outlet are not the stock Kyosho ones. Brendon put those in for me. The original outlet went out of the side of the board whilst the inlet was further back on the bottom (as your NQD would be). I just put epoxy over the old holes and around the new pipes inside & out of the board.

I'm planning on adding some weight up the front of the board this weekend hopefully. I'll be putting it inside the where the 4 batteries for the receiver were. This should keep the nose down a bit.

It's looking like some real good smooth condition with 2ft waves this weekend. So i'll try getting it out again and another video. Still haven't received my 11.1v Lipo battery yet. So i'll be using the 4600mah NiMh 7.2v. I really can't wait to see how the 11.1v goes. Should be a lot faster hopefully.

M??K -

If you go about 2 or 3 pages back in this forum, I have listed all the bits and pieces I have brought to change over to brushless. I decided to go with a Feigao 540 9L motor as it has a little more torque than the standard Feigao 540 mortors.

Let me know if you get stuck with anything or need more info.

Surfcurls (John) -

I'll get some closer shots of the antenna and inside of the board tomorrow for you and post them up.

Do you know of any way to stop water being drawn up the prop shaft? It was good after Brendon and Jason fixed it, but since i've moved the shaft etc to fit the new motor etc in, I'm getting splatters of water around the hull where the coupler is. It's not a major problem as i've got some sponge there to soak it up. But if there's a way to stop it, it would be good to know. I might try to get a hold of Brendon over the weekend.

surfcurls

grease the shaft with maine grease, we dont get a drop

TechyJoe

Hull Leak Troubleshooting + more info

Here is how to find those hull leaks - also posted a few pages back

1) Remove the deck
2) Screw in three of the four screws into the screw holes.
3) Insert fuel tube into the empty screw hole.
4) Place the hull into a tub of water and blow into the open end of the fuel tube.
5) Air bubbles with come out where the leaks are (see the piscture).

I have also included a picture of my prop shaft seal and water intake port seal. I used plumbers putty here. It doesn't look the best but it is solid as metal when it dries. This provides alot of support for the shaft and the intake port.

Note:
Bathroom caulk does not work well. The salt water will dry and shrink this up (I already tried this).

In one of the pictures, I am trying to show a small grove carved into the plastic hull by the prop. This was probably caused by the shaft not beeing supported enough and hitting the hull after a jump and the shaft bending some when it hits the water.

Note:
From many years of flying model airplanes, I have found that sometimes it doesn't matter how it looks but rather how prctical it is and how well works to be the best practice to follow.

(Sorry - my camera battery just died before I could download the hull leak setup).

TechyJoe

Also, I agree with surfcurls, grease the shaft. Mostly in the area where the propeller and the shaft are connected. Lube this area up each time you take your surfer out.

TechyJoe

I am also going to purchase one of those water cooling jackets like the one Yowza is using. I have come to the conclusion that the coil which comes with the NQD surfer is cheap crap and doesn't keep the motor cool enough for long runs.

M°°K

TechyJoe, Did you keep the rubber seal for the prop shaft and put the putty over it, or did you completely remove it? 

TechyJoe

M��K

I removed the rubber seal completely.

Note:
Sorry, I also provided the wrong name for this stuff. I referred to it in the previous blog as "plumbers putty" but is is really a plumbers "epoxy" or sometimes referred to as Steel Epoxy.

It is a two part mixture which comes rolled in a tube like dough. You mix the two part epoxy between your thumbs then apply. Hard as nails.

My rubber seal on the antenna just broke so I also used this stuff in its place.

M°°K

Thanks Joe. I'm off out to get some Plumbers epoxy. Did you push it right up inside the hull, around the prop shaft? I think I'll do that. I,ve put some 'Solaerez' around the top of the rudder with some super glue so hopefull that problem is cured. Thanks for the help.

LONGBOARDT3

good guys.
I decided to give my surfer brushless setup.
Need help deciding on model esc, motor and battery
something cheaply and efficiently the brushless ..... is totally new for me.

who helps me? thank

RC Surfer

You need to start with what Voltage 7.2v, 9.6v, 11.3v, ect. If tou are using a Lipo type battery the ESC must have a voltage (usually Progamable) cut off or you will KILL your Lipo battery! If you don't have a Lipo Charging system allready, the cheeper and better way is NIMH type batterys and charger. Hands Down...

Your Motor should be 540 size short can spects., For SURFING your RPM rating ratio should end up not under28,000rpm but not over 40,000rpm, Motor Kv X Voltage. the lower for novice and the higher for Pro

TRASH!! the STOCK driveshaft and coupler. This reaks havock EVERY WHERE, Go to a flex drive system, IT"S CHEEP and EASY to do Save money and time here!!!

Read older posts!!! there is a lot information here and no one is looking!!

hope to post pic's soon, Later Dude!!
Hope this works http://groups.yahoo.com/groups/RCsur...71410/pic/list

LONGBOARDT3

thanks friend.
my problem is to find the language and hence have much trouble finding information on this great foro.sorry

LONGBOARDT3

esc could be a plane, even if you back up?
We could speak of those amps?
that you think this?.....

http://cgi.ebay.com.hk/ws/eBayISAPI....3A1%7C294%3A50

thank

M°°K

This looks cool too.

TechyJoe

M��K and LONGBOARDT3

M��K
The motor shown in the URL you provided is the motor I have installed in my Surfer, the E-Z Run 540 brushless. Its a good motor but hesitates some from rest when you hit the throttle. There may be better or less expensive motors out there (like I said, its a good motor for the money and its fast). I purchased the 3300kv (I beleive 13.5 turn).

You guys should buy Water Proof and Water cooled ESCs and not air cooled because no air gets into the sealed boat hull to provide the cooling. Also, because these NQD surfers leak so much, I, strongly suggest the WATER PROOF.

Here are two sites with 540 motors. Any of these motors will work.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun3650m.html

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...num=1&ct=title

LONGBOARDT3

hello TechyJoe
these engines to which you refer are in the car
will be much rpm for surfing?
thank

RC Surfer

TJ
And your voltage is?? I have the Novak 5700SS sencered car system (older system) and drilled the heat sink and installed brass cooling tubes, works excellent. Power is a 6 cell 7.2v nimh On the new type ESC with the fan, remove the fan and drill holes through the alum. fins, add some tubing, "walla" a water cool ESC. If you have the tools and the ability, why not?

Thanks for stating that you have a little clogging issue. I have to ask, are you using a 2.4 GHz radio? I tried and tried to make one work ( different antenna configureations) in my board and every time the surfer went under water it would lose signal and you have to wait a second or two untill it found a signal. really unnerving and I don't recommend them in the surfers,but a little gloging might not be too bad as long as you are aware of it.

Later Dudes

RC Surfer

MOOK
Good find! $100 us WOW think I might try one for that price 6 or 7 cell or 7.2 lipo X factor there. This combo is perfect for a starter if you have the abillity to take the fan off and install tubing in the alum. cooling fins. Getting ample cooling would justify the 60 amp rating, I'm a little concerned about the 1.5 amp BEC, especially if you are going to upgrade the rudder servo. you could bypass with a Castel Creations BEC.

P.S. It will be a little fast for a beginer but an X427 prop will slow it some
Later Dudes

TechyJoe

LONGBOARDT3

As the number of turns increase, so does the RPM. RPM = KV * volts. So the RPM for my 13Turn 3300kv is:

RPM = 3300 * 11.1v
RPM = 36630

RC Surfer
I'm using 11.1v, 3 cell Lipo and a 75Mhz AM radio. I think the delay in throttle is due to the fact that the motor is a sensorless motor and it depends on where the armature of the motor stops in relation to the magnets. Something like that

Also, My motor was $40.00 and the ESC was $60.00 so this equals your $100.00 bargain and I didn't need to modify anything.

TechyJoe

Guys FYI:

I've seen Castle Creation's combination motor and aired cooled ESCs at my local Hobby store for about $120.00. These are really good motors. Maybe looking into this would be a good idea.

Also, I usually run my surfer at about 1/2 throttle. Full throttle is not needed all of the time to catch the big waves and this will help increases your runtime. I do full throttle occasionally to jump waves, get out of the break water and outrun waves that are about to crash on poor little Lisa's head and also when I am bored and feel the need for speed.

TTYL

LONGBOARDT3

Do you think this engine?
RPM is good at?
http://cgi.ebay.com.hk/ws/eBayISAPI....3A1%7C294%3A50
THANKYOU

RC Surfer

LB
What battery are you going to use?

LONGBOARDT3

I think using battery 7.4 to 11v
as you see it?
although I have seen that the engine is 43.1x66, 25 ... if not come well in size
???

LONGBOARDT3

but I think that with so many questions .... are you tired of me ... jajaja
back with another question ....
after two hours translating all pages (my eyes hurt ) I have concluded that the best configuration to purchase is the following :

motor brushless 540 3650 Brushless Motor
ESC 40 to 60amh
battery 2200mAh Max 35C 11.1V 3S Lipo

pd:as we see? ....enough minutes for fun? configuration is good?
After these two hours of long work in translation (still not entirely understand....jajajaja)
hope helps ......thankyouuuuuu

TechyJoe

LONGBOARDT3

That is a good setup except use 25C instead of 35C for the battery.

RC Surfer

I would like to point out that through the years brushed or brushless 40amp ESC will work if you supply it with ample cooling, so thats where the seperate cooling systems came to be, one for ESC and one for the motor. Now that was with 7.2 voltage but the ESC would still fail after 40 to 50 runs. With 11.1v you are using a little less amp draw so it might work, we'll see. Bottom line is using 60 anps+ the heat problems went away and the higher the amp rating (on the ESC) the motor and ESC ran cooler and gained run time.
Later Dudes
Couple pic's