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Old 09-27-2007, 06:51 PM
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cjkemp99515
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Default Engine Break In

I was hoping that some one could show me a link where there is a walk through on the internet on how to break in a Zenoah® G-26M gas engine.
Old 09-27-2007, 07:47 PM
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ddmracing05
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Default RE: Engine Break In

Zenoah RC-style engines and clones are tuned for high performance and need to be well taken care of. Breaking-in an engine is a process of alternately heating and cooling the engine to allow all parts to properly seat themselves, and allowing 2-stroke oil from the incoming fuel to coat the interior of the engine. DDM recommends the following break-in procedure:
Use 91 octane or higher fuel, mixed 25:1 with a quality non-synthetic 2-stroke oil. (You can use synthetic oil for break-in also. Just run slightly more fuel through the engine. ) Run the engine at varying speeds for periods of 3 to 10 minutes at a time. During this break-in time, NEVER go full throttle. Always let the engine idle for 30 seconds before turning it off. Allow the engine to cool off for 10 minutes before starting it again. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times - 3 or 4 full "heat cycles".
After the break-in period, switch to a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil, mixed at 25:1. Be sure to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool before stopping. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule included in your engine owners manual.

http://www.davesmotors.com/goped-faq.htm#General
Old 09-28-2007, 08:41 AM
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Doubledog
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Default RE: Engine Break In

ORIGINAL: ddmracing05

Zenoah RC-style engines and clones are tuned for high performance and need to be well taken care of. Breaking-in an engine is a process of alternately heating and cooling the engine to allow all parts to properly seat themselves, and allowing 2-stroke oil from the incoming fuel to coat the interior of the engine. DDM recommends the following break-in procedure:
Use 91 octane or higher fuel, mixed 25:1 with a quality non-synthetic 2-stroke oil. (You can use synthetic oil for break-in also. Just run slightly more fuel through the engine. ) Run the engine at varying speeds for periods of 3 to 10 minutes at a time. During this break-in time, NEVER go full throttle. Always let the engine idle for 30 seconds before turning it off. Allow the engine to cool off for 10 minutes before starting it again. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times - 3 or 4 full "heat cycles".
After the break-in period, switch to a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil, mixed at 25:1. Be sure to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool before stopping. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule included in your engine owners manual.

http://www.davesmotors.com/goped-faq.htm#General

Silly question.... how do most people break in a weedwacker? They don't. Start it up & pull the trigger to the back-stop right? I'll almost bet that most folks have put more time on said weedwacker than they have the RC boat.

Saying that, I personally agree with most of what you wrote and tend to take care of my engines in a very similar fashion but I don't think its proven to provide any longer life span.

Another issue is the 91 octane. That I disagree with because I run white gas or camp fuel thats roughly 55 octane rating. Starts easier, idles better and there is no speed difference. If anything it runs cooler. These engines, even the full mod versions are setup to run on 87 & not much more.

Jamie
Old 10-01-2007, 02:02 PM
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ryan@ddm
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Default RE: Engine Break In


ORIGINAL: Doubledog

Silly question.... how do most people break in a weedwacker? They don't. Start it up & pull the trigger to the back-stop right? I'll almost bet that most folks have put more time on said weedwacker than they have the RC boat.
The guide in question is for Zenoah RC-style engines, which are not used in weedwackers. The Zenoah weedwacker equivalent engine would be the G23LH, which is massively detuned compared to the G230RC and G260RC. The G23LH is pretty much indestructible; that's why it's used in industrial applications. The RC-style motors can't take a tenth the mistreatment an LH can take, but they pump out more than twice the HP...
Old 10-01-2007, 02:32 PM
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Doubledog
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Default RE: Engine Break In

ORIGINAL: cjkemp99515

how to break in a Zenoah® G-26M gas engine.
Ryan,
Where did RC style engines come into the question? Your site talks about them, but not the engine in question. You said it yourself... the LH is pretty much indestructable, hense my point stands.

Jamie
Old 10-01-2007, 03:56 PM
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ryan@ddm
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Default RE: Engine Break In


ORIGINAL: Doubledog

ORIGINAL: cjkemp99515

how to break in a Zenoah® G-26M gas engine.
Ryan,
Where did RC style engines come into the question? Your site talks about them, but not the engine in question. You said it yourself... the LH is pretty much indestructable, hense my point stands.

Jamie

The following engines are all Zenoah high-performance, straight-plug RC style:
G231PUM, G260PUM, G230RC, G260RC, G231PUH, G260PUH, and G260PU.

Examples of high-reliability, angle-plug industrial style Zenoah designs are the G23LH and the G43L-D.

The question was directed to the G260PUM; therefore, the break-in instructions are applicable.
Old 10-01-2007, 07:08 PM
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Default RE: Engine Break In

Zenoah says they do not need break in.........

"No specific break-in is required. The engine is gradually broken-in as it is used and the output is also increased gradually"

http://www.zenoah.net/products/hobby...UH_PUM_204.pdf




i ran my stock 260 at 1/4-1/2 throttle for all of about 30 seconds, then let her rip. Never had a problem.... 15930-15960RPM spinning a X472 prop consistently.
Old 10-02-2007, 12:23 AM
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ryan@ddm
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Default RE: Engine Break In

Of course a specific break in is not required. Our experience, however, after selling more than ten thousand RC-style engines from Zenoah and CY, is that customers who heat cycle a few times before hard use tend to experience longer product lifetimes.
Old 10-03-2007, 08:31 PM
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danman aus
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Default RE: Engine Break In

im a mechanic by trade and when we build an engine for race purposes,high revs and high hp we run our engines on an engine dyno with plenty of air through the radiator(more than it prob sees on the race track),avgas or over 100 octane fuel,and wait for the good part. a BRICK on the throttle or open the carby up to max after a 2 min idle to make sure weve got oil pressure. this has been a common practice for years in my workshop and never have we had a problem-this is the intended purpose. engines need to be run in under the conditions they will spend most of their workin life,and if shes gunna blow its within the first ten mins with our technique. no need to pu55y foot around engines that make high horsepower-no matter what they are. knowledge is the key
cheers,dan

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