Community
Search
Notices
RC Car Engines Talk about rc car nitro engines and gas engines

Alpha .28 nitro engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-15-2025 | 10:00 AM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Alpha .28 nitro engine

Good evening.Just bought a alpha .28 rtr engine (black head) and there is no instructions on thr break in procedure and factory needle settings.hoping someone can help with these please
Old 02-15-2025 | 10:56 AM
  #2  
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,530
Received 105 Likes on 93 Posts
From: Cottage Grove, MN
Default

Originally Posted by Hondacr89
Good evening.Just bought a alpha .28 rtr engine (black head) and there is no instructions on thr break in procedure and factory needle settings.hoping someone can help with these please
Most of the time, setting the low speed needle flush with the end of the throttle valve is acceptable, though is probably too rich in most cases. Give it 1/2 turn leaner from flush to start with. The high speed can usually be set to 3 turns out to start with. Once the engine is running you can usually judge fairly quickly if you need to adjust it from those base settings.

Break-in is a matter of opening Pandora’s box because everybody believes anything these days. I run my engines old school: oily fuel set slightly rich and at rpm. In a nutshell, I custom blend my break-in fuel over 4 quarts (a gallon) respectively: 14% oil 70/30 castor to synthetic oil, 10% nitro. 13% oil 70/30 castor to synthetic, 15% nitro. 12% oil 60/40 castor to synthetic, 15% nitro. 11% oil 60/40 castor to synthetic, 20% nitro (which is my same brew for regular running). Preheat the engine every time, 200°F to 220°F is perfect. Adjust needles right away to be only slightly rich so as to maintain heat - you need to keep the heat up to prevent the liner from contracting which would cause premature wear. Good quality engines should maintain a cold pinch for several gallons at minimum. Cheap engines often lose their pinch early on, which is an indication to a less than ideal alloy in the piston. Oil package is everything. Use good fuel; supplement commercial fuel with additive-free castor oil if you cannot blend your own.

RPM RPM RPM. Break-in is really and only seating the conrod bushings. RPM Is the only way to accomplish this. Not WOT constantly, but definitely not idling for tanks on end or babying the throttle. These engines are fairly robust. Use plenty of lubrication, keep the heat up, and just run it.
Old 02-15-2025 | 11:07 AM
  #3  
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 10,530
Received 105 Likes on 93 Posts
From: Cottage Grove, MN
Default

Mostly stock Jato 2.5, heavily modified 3.3, end of 1st quart of fuel set pretty rich, 56mph running at 214°F after several WOT passes. For a junky Traxxas engine, this is pretty good. This is one of the only videos I have uploaded showing a truck engine breaking in. I treat them all the same, though.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.