Fail-Safe Tip
#1
Thread Starter

Not sure where to post this, but I think if I post it under Electronics, not many people will read it.
I do use NiMh AAs in some of my RCs. 4 of them in the stock battery holder. But they do discharge by themselves quite quickly. So in some of my RCs that I don't use as often, I use Duracells.
A problem arises when using alkalines with a Fail-Safe. Basically, the battery voltage can drop too much under heavy current drain (such as the steering servo on hard corners) and the Fail-Safe activates. Here's what I did to make my Fail-Save work with Duracells.
Added a Futaba FSU2 to the throttle servo. Unit works as advertised for returning the throttle in the event of loss of transmitter signal, but there was a problem with the low battery detection circuit. I didn't know these units wern't designed for alkaline receiver batteries, but were designed to operate with nicads at either 6 volts or 4.8 volts. Well......following the instructions set the unit up for 6 volts with my Duracells I had the trouble they describe......voltage drop from teh Duracells triggered the threshold at 5 volts and the throttle servo returned to idle. (Interestingly, it did not come back in 1 second like it says in the manual, but stayed there until I turned the reciever off and then back on).
Too much servo load caused this voltage drop with new batteries. So after a few voltage checks, it appeared that the voltage bottomed about 4.4 volts under full servo load. So, I decided to set the Fail-Safe up for the 4.8 volt setting. This unit automatically detects the voltage when you turn on the receiver while holding the "SET" button on the fail-safe. So, I took out one of the AAs and shorted the void with a jumper wire. This temporarily gave me 4.5 volts and the Fail-Safe responded thinking I had a 4.8 volt nicad pack. Then I put the AA back in and everything is fine. The fail-safe shouldn't shut anything down now until the batteries are truly on their last legs.
Since then I changed to 4 NiMh AAs and left the Fail_safe adjusted as it was, to 4.8 Volts and everything still worked fine.
A final note: many people use a throttle return spring. A good idea, but keep in mind a strong one drains your Rx batteries quicker as the servo continually fights against the spring during normal running.
I do use NiMh AAs in some of my RCs. 4 of them in the stock battery holder. But they do discharge by themselves quite quickly. So in some of my RCs that I don't use as often, I use Duracells.
A problem arises when using alkalines with a Fail-Safe. Basically, the battery voltage can drop too much under heavy current drain (such as the steering servo on hard corners) and the Fail-Safe activates. Here's what I did to make my Fail-Save work with Duracells.
Added a Futaba FSU2 to the throttle servo. Unit works as advertised for returning the throttle in the event of loss of transmitter signal, but there was a problem with the low battery detection circuit. I didn't know these units wern't designed for alkaline receiver batteries, but were designed to operate with nicads at either 6 volts or 4.8 volts. Well......following the instructions set the unit up for 6 volts with my Duracells I had the trouble they describe......voltage drop from teh Duracells triggered the threshold at 5 volts and the throttle servo returned to idle. (Interestingly, it did not come back in 1 second like it says in the manual, but stayed there until I turned the reciever off and then back on).
Too much servo load caused this voltage drop with new batteries. So after a few voltage checks, it appeared that the voltage bottomed about 4.4 volts under full servo load. So, I decided to set the Fail-Safe up for the 4.8 volt setting. This unit automatically detects the voltage when you turn on the receiver while holding the "SET" button on the fail-safe. So, I took out one of the AAs and shorted the void with a jumper wire. This temporarily gave me 4.5 volts and the Fail-Safe responded thinking I had a 4.8 volt nicad pack. Then I put the AA back in and everything is fine. The fail-safe shouldn't shut anything down now until the batteries are truly on their last legs.
Since then I changed to 4 NiMh AAs and left the Fail_safe adjusted as it was, to 4.8 Volts and everything still worked fine.
A final note: many people use a throttle return spring. A good idea, but keep in mind a strong one drains your Rx batteries quicker as the servo continually fights against the spring during normal running.
#4
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: proanti1
Why would you ever use 4 1.2v cells?
Why would you ever use 4 1.2v cells?
2/ They fit the stock battery holder.
3/ They are rechargeable (I added a charging jack to my Savage so I wouldn't have to deal the radio box cover....RTR25)
4/ They are cheap, and avialble locally at many stores such as Wal-Mart, Grocery Store,, Canadian Tire etc, and are often on sale too.
5/ If one battery fails, you only have to replace it, not the whole pack
6/ Performance is great. Maybe my steering servo would be stronger with a 6 volt rechargeable pack, but I havn't seen any performance issues so far.



