Hey All, I'm the new guy, And I've got some questions for you'all. A buddy of mine gave me a bunch of rc stuff, but I dont know what it is? How can I find out? No Body, 4 wheel drive, servos are Tower Hobbies and the engine block says fc 3.5. any help would be greatly appreciated..........

BTW, I should also mention that I'm a newbie to the sport. So I know the componets, what they do, and how to fix them, but I don't know any brands or what might be missing.....thanks again.

pictures would be very helpful also is it a car or truck

I'm not sure, It has no body, from what I've seen online here in the last 24 hours, It could be an off-road racer or maby a loprofile truck. Letme see if I can get some pics up.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/sh...hp?photo=18359

here is a pic for you all

new pic is up, click on link in last post

it needs a good cleaning is what it needs lol! But it's a off-road buggy!

First, get the water hose out. Better yet, a pressure washer or run it through an automatic car wash.

Good luck with your identification hunt.

its either a 1/8th truck with buggy wheels or a 1/8th buggy missing the splash gaurds. I have never seen a buggy setup like that though with the fuel tank near the rear and the electronics up front some clearer pictures with a cleaned RC would be very helpful

this is not an Old Laro ?

It's an old ofna pirate (not monster pirate). It is an 1/8 scale off-road buggy from the 1980s.

Ok, Here's what I've found out for sure so far.......It has an OFNA Force 3.5 engine in it as well as an OFNA trans. The chassis does resemble the newer pirate 10 chassis, so I think your right about it being a Pirate. Have another question for you..........Also got two AE chassis. both totaled, but was able to get one full chassis together between the two. But I still have one cracked rear a-arm. It says "Pro-Line" on the bottom of the chassis. It has an O.S. Engines .15 CV-X w/Recoil. but I don't know the body style, and that denotes the car for parts, How do I find out what it is? Thanks Again

If it's nitro from AE, and proline makes a rear suspension arm, it's an RC10GT (does it have a black tub chassis)?

As for being an 1/8 scale pirate, I know it is from the pictures. A couple of the guys I race 1/8 scale dirt oval with still have them.

Here is a not so great pic of the two chassis, The two on the right. I'll try to take one of the finnished one and get it up today. Thanks



http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/sh...hp?photo=18557

They are team associated RC10GT stadium trucks (current style with the blue chassis plate vs older black tub chassis).

ok, here is a good pic of the finished chassis.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/sh...hp?photo=18560

All you're missing now is the front bumper (highly recommended).

Original bumper


RPM Wide bumper for RC10GT

Thanks for your help. I never realized that I never put the bumper back on.... Thanks again for all your help.... That explanes the small steering radius. via remote, it doesnt turn far. Being a stadium truck, I wouldn't think it would need to..

they look like they came from ashes then resurrected are they buried in ashes or dried mud...?

Ok guys, finaly got all the parts needed to get the rt10gt running. but now I have some problems. The two are related. I can't get the engine to idle low enough to disengage the clutch. When I got the car, the clutch was in pieces, I reassembled it based on the wear marks, but that doesn't mean that the previous owner had it installed right, The cluch as I know, Is composed of the 4 spoke flywheel, the bell and 4 white plastic flappers. the flappers are hinged towards the direction of rotation. Is this right? or am I missing someing? a spring or something? Right now, it grabs tight enough at its lowest idle to kill to moter if I use the break. Anyone got any ideas?

Int he shoes (as you call them, the "flippers") there should be a deep groove on the outside. Pop into your lhs and ask for a clutch spring to fit. You need the spring to return the shoes. Then you should re tune the idle speed so it idles as high as it can, but leaving the clutch disengeged. Hope this helps.

I know the stock clutch setup on the RC10GT didn't have springs or anything else to return the shoes for that matter.

Make sure the shoes are trailing (ie - the pin is at the leading edge of the shoe) so they don't bite too hard.

Are you sure? That made the most sense to me, but the wear marks definitely say that the pins were trailing. But I'll give it a try anyway. Got the car running on the road last night, Minus the fact that If I used the brake to completly stop, it died. But it was pretty cool! This is my first gas car, after last night, it wont be my last. One question though, is it normal fo the car to last only about 5 min on a tank of gas? prolly 50\50 between full throttle and idle. Thanks again...........

The shoes can go either way. Just different take-ups.

With the associated clutch (without clutch springs), when installed for agressive engagement, there's a tendency to stall at an idle. When the shoes are installed so they trail behind the pin, they allow slip on the clutch bell (the shoes are in continuous contact with the clutch bell). When they are in the leading position, contact with the clutch bell is more positive.