I figured since we have the "let's talk engines thread" we may as well have one for brushless systems too! There are just as many brushless options available now as there are nitro engines. Alot of them are very good and some of them are just crap. Even some of the budget chinese systems are turning out to be very good reliable systems that put out some impressive power compared to the "name brand" systems. So what brushless systems have you run and what do you like or dislike about them?

I first got started into brushless a few yeatrs ago. I wanted to see what all the hype was about. I had aquired in a trade a 1/18 HPI micro RS4 so I started looking for a system to put in it. I got a hold of a Novak Mongoose sensored syste with a 8000kv motor. I jumped right in with 3s lipo! that thing was uncontrolably insane! I wasn't a big fan of the car itself but it showed me the potential brushless had to produce big power. since that first one I have had several systems from Novak, Castle, Tekin, Hobbywing and some no name stuff too. My favorite system for small 1/18 scale stuff is a Castle Mamba Micro Pro ESC with a CM26 motor it is a nasty combo if you can find it. I have also had several Mamba Monster system for 1/8 scale. It is ofcourse a very populatr system butI can no longer recommend it to anyone. I have fried I think 4 ESC's now and I just traded off my last one. I am wanting to give some other brands a try now. The Mamba Monster Motors are awesome! there isn't another motor that I would want to try. My favorite is a castle 1518 1800. I have this one for my 8ight-t and it is the most insane of any brushless motor I have tried yet. back flips standing or rolling even with a differential fill with 7K wieght oil. if I would lock the center diff I would get standing double back flips with just a blip of the throttle!. I am having a XERUN 150amp combo shipped to me that I am going to try in my ofna GTP2e and see how it handles 6s and tall gearing for speed runs. This is where a couple Mamba Monsters have failed me, so I am excited to see how this one works. I have a 80amp XERUN that I am running in a 1/12 jammin' CRT.5 and I have been impressed with it so far. my overall favorite ESC is a Tekin RX8. I haven't seen its match for smoothness yet, but I have heard some people actually like the Hobbywing 150amp Pro better. That will be the next ESC I try out. Tekin Motor don't seem to have the same ammount of power/torque as the Mamba Monster motor. I really like a RX8/Castle motor combo.

my 1st brushless was a used rustler VXL.
after many packs, the solder joints on the board let go (1st gen, where the motor wires plugged right into the ESC)
Traxxas replaced it.

I like the vxl, as it is simple to setup and waterproof.

I have however had more than a few vxl ESC's have the LVC stop working right (cutting in after a min or 2 on fully charged packs)

I have owned a few of the ezrun s-10 60amp (stock on redcats) with both the hobbywing finned out motor and the novatech 540 motor.

I like the novatech motor better. more torque.

I have never liked (or should I say, never had a reliable) castle or sidewidner system. Granted, i bought them used, but none of them lasted long.

I hear alot about the tekin stuff. I can see where the massive amount of adjustability is good for some. But considering that I rarely spend more than $150 on a RTR motor (used or new) I cant see myself spending $200 on just a brushless system. Not when a ezrun $80=$120 system usually meets my speed requirements.

I would LOVE to see a model built to use a direct drive brushless motor. I know some have converted 1/8 nitros with brushless outrunners, but would love to see this happen with RTR 1/10 4wd models. Seems like it could simplify the driveline and make it hold up better.

The only brushless systems I've owned are all Hobbywing <div>
</div><div>1st was a ezrun 35a and 4300kv finned motor. Was plenty fast in my tt01e and lasted a long time. Then I decided to exceed the limits clearly stated in the manual. I put a 3s pack with the 9t motor. Still wasn't enough to kill it so it but it did get hot. So I increased the gearing as high as it can go in a tt01e (i thing 5.5fdr) and drove it for a month then it died. Talk about a tough system to kill!</div><div>
</div><div>After that I bought a ezrun 60a and 4000kv (non finned real 540) motor. I put it in my Tamiya TB03 first. On 3s it hit 50mph and gets a little warm (can touch for 10 seconds after 10 minutes of driving). On 2s it wouldn't even get warm. And it was geared 6.5fdr. Perfect system for the tb03.</div><div>
</div><div>I then purchased a Tamiya DF02 and bought it the same motor and esc as the tb03. It ran hotter but still in the safe zone and I even used 3s which isn't recommended with the 4000kv in an offroad vehicle and it was alright. I beat the snot out of the df02 then sold it on ebay in non working order for more than I bought it for. </div><div>
</div><div>I kept the motor/esc from the df02 and put them in a hsp 1/10 buggy. On 2s it got pretty warm. I put 3s on it as at the time my 2s stuffed up and drove it for a month like that. The capacitors had been ripped off and the fan didn't work. It ran for a month like that, thermalling every 10 minutes then decided to die. The motor still works but its not as smooth as I remember.</div><div>
</div><div>I took the system from the tb03 and put it in a hsp 1/10 touring car. On  2s it gets hotter than the tb03 on 3s and the hsp has lower gearing????</div><div>On 3s it will thermal the esc in 10 minutes (no fan) So I usually drive it for 5 minutes then let it cool. Just to be safe while a new fan comes in the mail. Mind you its 35 degrees celcius here so I can't blame the electronics</div><div>
</div><div>I have a ripper 2000kv motor and 150a xerun esc in my thunder tiger mt4. The ripper decided to one day just stop working so I replaced it with a xerun  hw 2200kv 4274sd sensored motor. My MT4 does about 42mph on 4s now and has more power than I need. And it runs very cool on asphalt and a bit warm on grass after 15 minutes but nothing out of the safety zone</div>

own most of hobbywings lineup never been disappointed
Ones I own: the 18A, 35A (2-3), 65A(2-3), 120A SC8, and the 150A

Own a CC 2200kv MM combo in my truggy. Originally bought it for my savage flux on 4S, but after a few mins of running it was too hot for my taste (on a flux's stock gearing), was very disapointed to find out its only rated for 120Amps... For the added cost over a HW 150A combo I was expecting it to preform perfectly like everyone made them sound like back then. Also it hated my radio so I had to buy another radio just to use the damn thing(and another RC as I didn't own the truggy or have plans on getting as I got it so I wouldn't put the ESC, and motor to waste)

I keep hearing the same stories over and over again. People who are loving their Hobbywing system while at the same time being dissapointed with Castle. I have had a couple 25amp Hobbywing ESCs in an RC18T that eventually burnt up after pushing them too hard but for "normal" running they are great. Them Mamba Micro Pro was a much better system but it should be for 3 times the price, But I couldn't kill it and I pushed it hard! The 80amp XERUN is the only other Hobywing system I have had experience with yet and I am happy with it. But I don't plan to push this one beyond its limits. I'm looking forward to seeing how this 150amp XERUN compares to the Mamba Monsters I have fried! It WILL be pushed to its limit!

I have only had experience with the cc 2200 combos, I have 2 of them. One in my flux hp and one in my embe. Both are great systems to me, but I haven't had any problems or anything to compare it to. This is a great thread, I love unbiased opinions like the above statement about the tekin motor being slighty less volatile than the cc2200. Problem usually is people will swear up and down about a product being better because they bought it. Good to know, (tekin). I have owned a stampede vxl for 2 weeks but it just got boring doing donuts (2wd) but the vxl system was excellent in that small time. Also had some experience with an original vxl system in a Spartan that caught fire, but traxxas stood by it 8 months after purchase and upgraded it to the castle system at no charge. Side note. If your mamba monster starts jiggering, pop the casing on the esc apart and clean the built up moisture and dirt off the bottom of the circuit board

yea very few things I will say are garbage if I didn't own em(think the HPI trophy is about it, but that's cause I can't recall ever reading one positive thing about it)
Kinda why I got the MM everyone swore by them, etc. Year later the same ppl that said they were the greatest thing ever say they are junk, and now tekins the in thing

I think I have agreed with any post or response you have ever made syco, I got ur back bro! No in all honesty over the years you pick up on who know there stuff, who's generally asking for help, who enjoys helping others and who likes to stir the soup. Lol

Back on track. Last week I converted a revo to brushless with a hobby wing system from a redcat earthquake. It seemed to work pretty good actually. Only capable of running 4 s but sure beats turning the needles on a 3.3 -all day long...lol

I dont have any 1st hand experience with tekin...
but last week at the indoor track a guy had a sc10 with tekin brushless system.

He would run a few laps....go into the hobby shop, come out and run a few more.

This process repeted several times.

Each time out, it did seem he got a bit faster. In the hobby shop, he used a laptop to tune the ESC.

On the one hand, the tuning that can be achieved is impressive. On the other hand, it was the electronics that got better.....not the driver. And to me, racing should be more about the driver.
I dont have a problem with tuning shocks...tires...springs...camber and such. All these things are tuned in real racing. And they are also things all hobbiest can do if they choose. Not all hobbiest can afford a tekin bl system.

But then, im probly only nit picking cause im one of those who cant afford them....LOL.

And for me, the tuning of the inexpensive ezrun systems is enough. You can still tweak punch, drag, initial brake, total brake and reverse power. Even those few bits can greatly effect how your truck will perform on the track.

I dont really race, but even in bashing I have to change the settings between models or between which lipo I use. When I run a 3s, I lower the braking...up the punch control ect. When using 2s, braking force goes up and punch down. Makes a big difference!

To me tuning an ESC to get the best results is no different than adjusting shock oil, spring rates, diff fluid ect. its just one more aspect to tuning. It still takes some skill to find that "sweet spot". and once the system is working at its peak performance the driver still has to have the skill to get around the track. I'm not a racer but I have respect for those who are and can take advantage of those tuning options to make the most of them. Actually the options available on the hobbywing systems are almost as impressive as the "high end" systems.

Anyone try the Turnigy Trackstar ESC's or are they the same as the hobbywing systems just with different badging on them? I saw there is a 160amp Turnigy system I want to try out too.

I had the turnigy system (120 amp I think) for a bit. Installed it in a e-savage. It had plenty of power. I cant speak for the reliablity tho....as I sold the truck after running a few packs threw it (truck didnt hold up that well)

Ive had the redcat earthquake 8e, which has the ezrun 80a system. It may not have a high amp rating for a 1/8 scale system, but it sure did pack a punch. wheelys and backflips on command. I had to turn down the braking force as it came stock, cause it would forward flip on pavement.

Im working on rebuilding a rough esavage I bought. right now, I have a vxl system in it. but if I can get the cash, ill probly put a ezrun 80a system in it. Unless of course, I find a good deal on a emaxx....in which Ill replace the savage with it. Its a shame no one ever made a metal driveshaft upgrade for the e savvy.

I have a cheep hobbywing system in the durga. Thing has lasted for at least a year now.. No problems so thumbs up here for hobbywing.

My first brushless setup was in my savage xss,

Which I converted to brushless using the Hpi flux conversion kit, I then dremmeled out the motor mounts by 2mm,

And fitted a turnigy trackstar 2560kv motor and trackstar 150A esc on 4s,

Ran that for around half a dozen runs, but it was just too powerful, as soon as I'd get close to half throttle it would just start back flipping,

So I sold the motor with the dremmeled mounts and bought a Hpi/cc 2200kv motor and new mounts,

I'm happy with the power and it still gets scary near full throttle,

My fiancée bought me a new savage flux xs which I ran a toro 3900kv and toro 60A combo on 2s, but it kept overheating near the end of the battery every run out, guess the 4wd was a little hard on the motor,

I switched that out to a cc 3800kv motor and the power is fantastic with no overheating,

Just recently I bought a rolling chassis lst, made an alloy motor mount, converted to single speed and foc kit,

Installed a Keda 2364kv motor with a hpi flux 25t pinion gear, 80A trackstar esc on 4s,

Ran that for one pack and blew both front and rear Diffs, i purchased lst2 Diffs with alloy cases and sold that off as an artr truck,

With the money I bought a trackstar 5692 730kv motor and hobbyking 150A esc,

Pulled the 26cc engine from my rovan 1/5 scale 4wd truck and installed the huge trackstar motor in it,

I'm planning to run this on 6s lipo for now, I have bench tested this setup but have yet to run it outside,

Theres just been too much rain recently,

but on the bench all 4 tyres balloon up which shows some speed on 6s, I may gear up a bit if its not fast enough

My first BL system was a Castle Sidewinder SV2.  My buddy, EGBasher bought one too.  They each lasted a few months before the ESC crapped out.  Got NO help from Castle AT ALL.  Really soured me on CC products.  Not only that, as someone else mentioned above, I had to buy a new radio system because of all the RF noise that SW put out!  It would barely go ten feet before the car would loose signal.  Rediculous! 

After that disappointing experience, we bought EZrun systems and haven't looked back. Over a year later, and the same systems are running good as ever.  These are the little 35A systems with the finned motors.  Plenty of power for a light-weight (3.5lb) truck like an Evader.  And believe me, we run 'em hard.  AND, they don't put out massive RF noise like CC's do. Budget-friendly and reliable, that's what I like.

I got a couple of Novak systems and a couple of VXL systems.
My first system was a Novak SS5800 I got used. Bashed the hell out of it for a couple of years until it went up in smoke after a bad jump.
Novak GTB and 5.5 combo I have had this since 2007 or 2008 and it has been trouble free. This is an old system before LVC for lipos. I raced this system in my open sprint for a couple of seasons, and i ran it in open truck a couple of seasons. Bashed it for a few summers mostly ran it on 2s lipos and matched NIMH packs.
I have a second GTB system I mostly use for 17.5 or 13.5 stock classes. Same age as the first, pretty much trouble free.
I have a VXL system I got for next to nothing used. Beat the heck out of it doing long jumps on 3s. Got concrete dents in the motor can, still works great, except for the LVC I just turn that crap off and go with it. I burnt up a couple different Novak Sensored motors up on the VXL system running them on 3s just to see how long they would take it. I had a 13.5 go for 2 months before it melted on 3s.
I purchased a second VXL system and beat that as bad as the first one, but sold that to a hard up buddy cheep!
The last system I bought new was a Novak Havok 8.5 combo. It does not work with a lipo battery that has a higher discharge rate than 20c. Even a 25c battery does not work in it. If you put a battery in it with a higher discharge rate than 20, the system will not turn on. It blinks from on to off when you turn it on and thats it. Whatever, we just use a 20c battery in that unit.

I have a small pile of burned up motors, all novaks. Some were smoked from messin around with more power than they were designed for. Most of them were smoked racing spec classes. When you race spec classes you end up gearing your shizz right to the very limit if you want to be competitive. When you gear your stuff to the edge so to speak, you can burn up stuff rather quickly if everything is not perfect. Hell even having your stuff geared perfectly and driving agressivly can yeild a burnt motor. I enjoy electrics only when I am bashing, racing electric oval drove me crazy. Fortunatly for me my trophies outnumber my burnt motors.

I am interested in bashing some 1/8th electric shizz, so this is a good read for me.............

I just traded for an XERUN 150amp combo and it just came in today. I haven't had a chance to do much with it today yet. But I did go through the 2 in 1 program box and setup the ESC. The programing of features is nce and easy and the screen is easy to read. I have a 80 amp XERUN ESC also. I have had to mess with programing it through the transmiter which is a hassle so I was very happy to see that this program box also works with it as well. another thing that suprised me was the size of these two controllers. the 80 amp and 150amp controllers are the same size. Phyically they are identical. the only differece is one has an 80 amp sticker and the other has a 150 amp sticker. I plan on running the 150 amp in my GTP2e for speed runs with a Castle 1515 2200 motor. I may go ahead and try it with the 2250 motor it came with just to see how it does. Hopefully this ESC will handle speed runs better than the Mamba Monsters have!

pretty sure internally they are diff

guessing you got the LCD program box(with the back lit screen) instead of the LED one(few LED's with numbers by em)
that box works with all of the ESC's from the 18A (lowest I tried) to the 150A

Oh yeah, I know they are different internally I was just suprised the physical size is the same between the two.

Thats a nifty little programming card there!

yea the LCD screen card kicks ass
WAY better than the LED one, and it can get firmware updates for the ESC's
Prior to that I was happy with the LED one, but once I got that I haven't touched the LED one since

I have been looking to pick up one of these cheap sensored 1/8 motors. These new Tacon motors look nice. Anyone try one yet?
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m931-sen...71-kv2650.html

I have been racing for well over 20 years and all Ihave ever used is Novak and with the exception of one brushed esc that went up in smoke,
they all have been flawless. Irun a Novak Kinetic 1s in my carpet oval pan car, an edge in my 12th scale on road car and a Kinetic 2s in an Associated B4 dirt oval car.
I have run GTB's and XBR's in the past with the same level of flawless performance.

Recently I have purchased a couple Mamba Max Pro esc to use in my SC10's (both 2wd and 4wd) and Iam realy impressed with their performance.
Just picked up a Turigy Trackstar 100a to use in a touring car but have not ran it as of yet so will wait and see on that.

Jang on ultimaterc on YouTube has a review on the tacon 2150 motor, he compares the motor to a cc2200 and the performance between the two are pretty identical albeit the cc2200 having a little more top end power. With the prices on some of this Chinese stuff , you gotta wonder, for instance, how is maxamps even still in business with brands like turning around. It's nice when someone delivers an honest review on a product even if they paid huge amounts for it. Kudos to honesty. That what I like about hangs reviews, he does seem hard to be pleased with a product, but has no problem giving an honest review.

But yea, I will be pickin up a tacon 2150

easy actually there will always be people that will buy the insanely priced things just look at sony TV's vs samsungs or other brands because they equate higher price for higher quality.