alex8828

I just built an RC 10B64D with stock gearing with 21t pinion my battery is ProTek LIHV 4900mAh 2 Cell 100c and my motor is Castle 1406 4600kv brushless it was purchased as a combo.

I am worried about a heating problem with my Sidewinder 3 Esc heating up hot to the touch when I just hold my buggy in my hand and give very little throttle for less than 10 seconds.

The Esc instantly get hot almost to the point you can't touch. Also, my motor wires are labeled A,B,C but there is no A,B,C on the esc could the 3 wires be mixed up on the esc?

Would anyone have any thoughts about this?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Brushless motors run on 3-phase AC current so there is no polarity. The three wires can plug into any socket on the ESC. If the motor runs backwards you simply have to swap 2 of the wires to change direction.

Overheating of an ESC can be caused by over voltage, over amperage, or shoddy soldering/connections.
The voltage should be OK but check the battery with a volt meter anyway.
Is there any binding in the motor ,transmission gears, axles,wheels, etc ?
Who did the soldering...is it properly done?

Did you check the ESC programming with the Castle link?

When you test it does the motor spin up smoothly or does it stutter?

alex8828

I did some of the soldering and some was already done my Castle I am pretty good at soldering so I do not think that is the problem. I have not checked it with Castle link yet. Would that some a problem? I have the Castle link anything to look for in the application? Also, everything moves freely I do not feel any binding.

Thanks,
Alex

RustyUs

The Sidewinder 3 (SW3) is a sensorless ESC, but running a sensored motor (without sensor wire connected) will not hurt it. flyinwalenda has stated great places to check... binding and ESC settings. Also, running an ESC at less than 100% will generate some sort of heat.

alex8828

So RustyUs your saying if I run my buggy at low RPM on RC car stand for a few seconds it can cause the esc to get hot?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Maximum forward power is a setting in the ESC that can be adjusted from 100% down to 30%.

Is this motor/ESC new or used?

Again, is the motor spinning up smoothly when you are testing it or is it stuttering or struggling? Post a video of it.

vinmansbrew

Take the motor off the mount and hold it in your hand. Now use the throttle for a few seconds. Does the esc still get really hot? If it still does, my money is on a bad esc. Back in the day of 7cell packs and modified motors, my esc would get hot, but not after a few seconds on a bench. I doubt your solder job is that bad. Heck, even the old resistor/ wiper speed controllers took more than a 10 seconds to get hot.
Now, if it does not get hot, then you have either a drag or gearing issue. Either of those are exacerbated by the buggy being 4wd. There will always be more drag in a 4wd than a 2wd, after all, you have the power transfer to the front diff and 2 more wheels turning.
You could also contact sidewinder support and see what they say about the heat. Find out what the limit should be. Still, an esc that heats up fast is, to me, very inefficient.

alex8828

The motor/esc are new purchased as combo. I will post video this evening when I get home.

alex8828

I have already contacted Castle waiting for their response. That is a good idea to take motor off and see if same issue keeps happening.

RustyUs

I re-read OP's original post and seen term "instant" that I didn't see before. I'm not saying instantaneous heat is generated, but long term use of retarded energy will make temps rise. If you have a great amount of heat in a very short amount of time, then wiring/component may very well be the culprit; even if new. Just like anything else, lemons do occur. Bad quality control of material/mixture should not be ruled out. Since the wiring, I'm guessing, is one of the combos Castle has already done the work for you, I'd be contacting Castle support yesterday.

Okay, I'm trying to figure out why the sensorless Castle ESC, and opting to splurge on LiPo pack. I just say this and I'll be done. Castle's Sidewinders (gen 1&2) didn't have the best reputation. I like track bashing "racing breed" RCs myself. I can also understand using lower budget electronics in RCs. I don't want to sound obnoxious, nor am I trying to belittle anyone. If I were to be spending $60~$100 on a HV shorty pack for my RC10B64D, I might as well get a sensored ESC...especially for racing.

Hopefully, Castle will get the issue straightened out for you. I consider Castle Creation's gear workhorses in the hobby. Even the top brands have an issue here and there.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Since the last fall Castle has been packaging their Sidewinder combos with a sensored motor and a standard ESC . They have kept the price about the same as the original though. Not sure why they chose to do it that way.

alex8828

I am still kind of new to this and I read the read wrong on the web site where I purchased the combo I thought since it was sensored motor I thought the ESC would be to. That is why I spent money on battery pack. I thought the whole thing was sensored.

alex8828

RustyUs can you recommend a good sensored esc that will work well with my motor?

alex8828

Took motor off the mount held in hand and ran motor for while esc nice and cool. So I must be looking at a binding problem then?

alex8828

Does anyone now how I can upload a video?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

More than likely. Does the vehicle roll freely now with the motor out?
If not then remove both driveshafts re-install the motor and see it it runs smooth. If so then add one driveshaft and try again.

Since you are new at this you very well may have installed something upside-down and backwards.

RustyUs

Just copy and paste a YouTube video web address is the easiest...


Walk around the pits, and everyone has their favorite brands they swear by . HobbyWing would be my first choice for an ESC. For me it would be the "middle of the road" XERUN 120A V3.1 if I was using normal servos that needed 6 volts, or splurge a bit for the XR10 Pro. If you don't have the money for a sensorless ESC at the moment, it's not too big of a deal. You will just have a little less control of the motor at slower speeds. Choosing an ESC is a whole process of elimination. You have to take into consideration what your budget, needs, and wants are. Switchable BEC voltage, amperage, adjustability, physical size, motor limit, and wire gauge are some of the things to compare when looking at different ESCs.

I don't keep up with the latest and greatest top of the line electronics. I'd focus on what tires are needed for the track that the you will be racing at. Having proper tires will be your biggest obstacle. After that, put the time in, and practice.

alex8828

Here is a video of my buggy

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Dd you perform the test in post #16 yet?

What were your findings?

alex8828

Yes, I found what I believe to be the problem I just do not know how to fix it. It seems when the buggy is placed on the road and when I give it throttle the rear drive shaft is slipping because it is little spaced from the rear diff.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

You found A problem. How do you know it's THE problem?
The driveshafts are different lengths ...do you have them in the wrong spot?

alex8828

I'm going to check the manual and then take the car apart to see what I can find.

alex8828

The dog bones are in the correct place front is 82mm and rear is 110mm.

RustyUs

Oh boy . I think you found the binding issue if you somehow used the rear/center bone in the front. Is that even possible? The center bones should have the length marked on them and should be held in place by the spring retainer.

alex8828

It's not possible because of the size difference one is 82mm the other is 110mm.