re-coiling a pullstarter
11-05-2003 | 12:22 PM
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From: Bethesda, MD
re-coiling a pullstarter
im putting the pullstarter back on my NRS4 SS after taking it off and having the spring shoot out. i had to recoil the spring. how can i tighten the spring so that it provides the neccessary recoil? thanks
Louie
Louie
11-05-2003 | 12:25 PM
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From: Round Rock, TX
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
man, when i was using pullstarts, this happened to me a couple of times. here is the method i used to solve the problem.
step 1 - attempt to recoil pullstart, cut fingers, curse at pullstart
step 2 - through pullstart in trash
step 3 - drive to LHS
step 4 - purchase new pullstart, get laughed at about hurt fingers.
step 5 - install new pullstart
**************************
i know this doesnt help much, but what im trying to get at, is that some people will rebuild the PS's and can do it, but IMO its just not worth it. U can get a new one at the LHS for about 18-25 bucks.
step 1 - attempt to recoil pullstart, cut fingers, curse at pullstart
step 2 - through pullstart in trash
step 3 - drive to LHS
step 4 - purchase new pullstart, get laughed at about hurt fingers.
step 5 - install new pullstart
**************************
i know this doesnt help much, but what im trying to get at, is that some people will rebuild the PS's and can do it, but IMO its just not worth it. U can get a new one at the LHS for about 18-25 bucks.
11-05-2003 | 02:12 PM
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From: las vegas, NV
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
There is an alternative method to the last post:
I'm right handed, so I hold the spring in my left hand between my thumb and index finger, pinching it in the middle, like a quarter. Then, holding it tight enough so it won't unwind, I wind the spring tightly with my right hand. Once I have it wound very tight, about the same size as a quarter, but definitely smaller than the cutout in the pull-starter housing, still pinching it tightly between my left thumb and index finger, I leave about 3/4 to 1 inch on the very end (the end with the sharp bend that hooks into the plastic housing) put the starter spool onto the spring, still holding it tight.... don't worry if you mess up at this point, you'll get the hang of it, just start over.... anyway, now pinching the spool/spring assembly together so the spring stays wound, tilt the whole works down into the plastic housing attempting to get the spring hooked into the housing. A small screwdriver and a third hand work well for this. Once you have accomplished this, set it gently on your workbench and go crack open a cold one. Then re-assemble. I would have used Nitroaddict's method, except it would have cost me about $100 in two days. I had a rash of string-breaking incidents, so it was worth it for me to figure out how to do it.
I'm right handed, so I hold the spring in my left hand between my thumb and index finger, pinching it in the middle, like a quarter. Then, holding it tight enough so it won't unwind, I wind the spring tightly with my right hand. Once I have it wound very tight, about the same size as a quarter, but definitely smaller than the cutout in the pull-starter housing, still pinching it tightly between my left thumb and index finger, I leave about 3/4 to 1 inch on the very end (the end with the sharp bend that hooks into the plastic housing) put the starter spool onto the spring, still holding it tight.... don't worry if you mess up at this point, you'll get the hang of it, just start over.... anyway, now pinching the spool/spring assembly together so the spring stays wound, tilt the whole works down into the plastic housing attempting to get the spring hooked into the housing. A small screwdriver and a third hand work well for this. Once you have accomplished this, set it gently on your workbench and go crack open a cold one. Then re-assemble. I would have used Nitroaddict's method, except it would have cost me about $100 in two days. I had a rash of string-breaking incidents, so it was worth it for me to figure out how to do it.
11-05-2003 | 02:20 PM
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From: Madera,
CA
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
I will be getting a pullstart soon and was just wondering if there is anything that I can do that will prevent mishaps/breakings of the pullstart.
11-05-2003 | 02:23 PM
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From: Round Rock, TX
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
ORIGINAL: Jarret
I will be getting a pullstart soon and was just wondering if there is anything that I can do that will prevent mishaps/breakings of the pullstart.
I will be getting a pullstart soon and was just wondering if there is anything that I can do that will prevent mishaps/breakings of the pullstart.
number one cause is due to the user pulling the cord out too far.
nice tip: pull the cord out all the way slowly and then color the last 3-4 inches with a black magic marker. That way, if u see glimpses of black, u know u are pulling it to out too far
11-05-2003 | 02:31 PM
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From: Round Rock, TX
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
ORIGINAL: Jarret
That is a good tip, thanks Nitro.
That is a good tip, thanks Nitro.
ur welcome - that'll be four dollars please. what? you think these tips r free? lol
11-05-2003 | 02:39 PM
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From: Round Rock, TX
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
for a pullstart?
if so, here:
[*] pull in very short, very fast motions. starts easier. dont pull it like a lawnmower, it will break.[*] make sure u prime first. the easiest way to do this, is to put ur finger over the exhaust, and pull one stroke, slowly.
if so, here:
[*] pull in very short, very fast motions. starts easier. dont pull it like a lawnmower, it will break.[*] make sure u prime first. the easiest way to do this, is to put ur finger over the exhaust, and pull one stroke, slowly.
11-05-2003 | 02:53 PM
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From: Placerville,
CA
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
Ugh the dreaded broken pullstart...my old torq .16 has a broken pull start that doesen't retract all the way a result of me trying to wind it back up, took soooo long.
11-05-2003 | 02:53 PM
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From: Bethesda, MD
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
yeah i already broke one. this one just got jammed inside. when im starting my car i use a motion similar to a jerk-off motion. short and fast.
11-05-2003 | 04:26 PM
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From: Columbus, OH
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
ORIGINAL: puchinator
yeah i already broke one. this one just got jammed inside. when im starting my car i use a motion similar to a jerk-off motion. short and fast.
yeah i already broke one. this one just got jammed inside. when im starting my car i use a motion similar to a jerk-off motion. short and fast.
i love my pullstart, its to a trx .15 i actually downgraded from the ez start to it. i have broken it acouple of times bit its not too hard to fix, in the engine manual they tell you the procedure. when i first got it i took the tape off of the back and yanked really hard the spring shot out and was all tangled. i fixed it in about 10 minutes. then the knot came undone and i fixed it after a coupple of days
i like pull starters they are veryeconnomical an i think are the best starting method
11-05-2003 | 05:41 PM
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From: santa clarita,
CA,
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
I have been running pull starts for years on several different cars and engines and have never broken a pullstart. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I'm careful about a few things, namely:
I remove the pullstart regularly and spray it out with carb cleaner,
I don't pull the string too far, it shouldn't need long pulls,
I don't try to pull repeatedly when the engine is flooded,
I don't pull at a wierd angle, or through a window cutout (shreds the string)
Some good tuning, regular maintenance/cleaning, and a little care when using the pull-start, and they should last you a long long time.
Nitroaddict's idea about marking the last fwe inches is a GREAT idea, I like that!
I remove the pullstart regularly and spray it out with carb cleaner,
I don't pull the string too far, it shouldn't need long pulls,
I don't try to pull repeatedly when the engine is flooded,
I don't pull at a wierd angle, or through a window cutout (shreds the string)
Some good tuning, regular maintenance/cleaning, and a little care when using the pull-start, and they should last you a long long time.
Nitroaddict's idea about marking the last fwe inches is a GREAT idea, I like that!
11-05-2003 | 08:11 PM
#16
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
man my friend came over and we worked on my old max st. he broke the pull start and we got it back together. He was trying to start it and after about 50 pulls he looked at me and said "Damn this is worse than jerkin". Haha(p.s. he switched hands, LMAO!)
11-05-2003 | 09:07 PM
#17
My Feedback: (158)
RE: re-coiling a pullstarter
ORIGINAL: puchinator
im putting the pullstarter back on my NRS4 SS after taking it off and having the spring shoot out. i had to recoil the spring. how can i tighten the spring so that it provides the neccessary recoil? thanks
Louie
im putting the pullstarter back on my NRS4 SS after taking it off and having the spring shoot out. i had to recoil the spring. how can i tighten the spring so that it provides the neccessary recoil? thanks
Louie
ORIGINAL: Billyman
The coil spring always breaks where it has been bent (that?s the weak spots). The break occurs where it fits into the housing where some elaborate bending has taken place or the ?J? bend where it?s actually held in place and wound onto the wheel (round thingie that the rope is attached to).
Now most folks have their own procedures but here?s mine.
Billyman?s guide to recoiling the recoil:
1) Get comfortable and find something entertaining that doesn?t require your hands (you?ll need those for the job you?re about to perform). TV works well, watching a movie, a show, whatever. Trust me when I say you don?t want the recoiling to have your undivided attention. You?ll wind up disgusted, aggravated and possibly throwing it across the room screaming words that your mother would ground you for a month for saying. And you don?t want that. If you are old enough to drink, get some alcohol, this will help ease the tension also (takes the edge off). If you are not old enough to consume alcohol, I feel very sorry for you.
2) Depending on which end broke, you?ll need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and mimic the bends on the broken piece (it doesn?t have to perfect or exact but it must be close enough to fit). After you?re satisfied with all that, it?s time to get lost in that movie or watching the cars go by on the street (If you have alcohol, it?s time to start sipping).
3) Start by carefully examining the direction every thing will have to go. There?s nothing more earth shattering than winding and winding only to find you?ve done it backwards.
4) Now, place ?J? bend in wheel and using your thumbs on the top (not the spring side) and your middle and index fingers on the bottom (spring side) apply pressure and start rotating the wheel using your fingers on the ?loose? end of the spring as a guide and alternating pressure from hand to hand while turning.
5) After every few turns, hold tightly with one set of fingers and pull the excess ?loose? spring tightly. You need to create a very tight wind.
6) By now, you may realize that you need a tissue or paper towel to sop up the blood where you?ve cut your finger. Suck it up and be a man, just bleed all over it!
7) Hopefully, at this point, you?ve got a tight wind and ready to install into the case, the rope is all twisted but don?t worry, you can straighten that out in a bit.
Fit number one.
Yep, it?s backwards. Throw it on to the floor and watch and hear it unwind (you have to be quick for it does this very quickly, guzzle alcohol, take a breather.
8) Repeat steps 1-7 but do it in the correct direction this time.
Fit number two.
You?re fingers and thumbs are starting to hurt but you?ve got too far to stop now. Can?t?..hold it?..any?.long??.er??.must??.(neat springy noise is heard so may be the cursing). Take a breather, loosen those stiff muscles in your fingers and hands by doing the ?mommy pick me up? thing that kids do, drink more alcohol.
You should understand why I suggested having something else on your mind by now. A 10 minute job has turned into 40 and it still isn?t fixed. Press on.
9) This is where you may scream ?SUCCESS!!!!? and do a little funky dance or something. It?s wound tight, in the right direction, and all you have to do is insert it into the case. Holding it firmly with one set of fingers, hold it as close to or in the housing as possible. With your free hand wielding a small screwdriver, pull and push, the elaborate bent end into the housing (it may not go all the way but as long as it hooked you?ll be ok). Set aside screwdriver and grab dangling rope. Quickly push the wheel with it?s newly wound spring into the housing. Holding it down firmly with your thumb in the center, let the rope wind itself slowly around the wheel.
Now install on engine?
No.
10) You now realize that there is two inches of rope hanging out of it and won?t go back in because the winding wasn?t tight enough and you have to do it all over again.
I told you a movie and alcohol helps.
If you've broken the rope you'll still have to go through all that sh** just without bending the spring.
The coil spring always breaks where it has been bent (that?s the weak spots). The break occurs where it fits into the housing where some elaborate bending has taken place or the ?J? bend where it?s actually held in place and wound onto the wheel (round thingie that the rope is attached to).
Now most folks have their own procedures but here?s mine.
Billyman?s guide to recoiling the recoil:
1) Get comfortable and find something entertaining that doesn?t require your hands (you?ll need those for the job you?re about to perform). TV works well, watching a movie, a show, whatever. Trust me when I say you don?t want the recoiling to have your undivided attention. You?ll wind up disgusted, aggravated and possibly throwing it across the room screaming words that your mother would ground you for a month for saying. And you don?t want that. If you are old enough to drink, get some alcohol, this will help ease the tension also (takes the edge off). If you are not old enough to consume alcohol, I feel very sorry for you.
2) Depending on which end broke, you?ll need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and mimic the bends on the broken piece (it doesn?t have to perfect or exact but it must be close enough to fit). After you?re satisfied with all that, it?s time to get lost in that movie or watching the cars go by on the street (If you have alcohol, it?s time to start sipping).
3) Start by carefully examining the direction every thing will have to go. There?s nothing more earth shattering than winding and winding only to find you?ve done it backwards.
4) Now, place ?J? bend in wheel and using your thumbs on the top (not the spring side) and your middle and index fingers on the bottom (spring side) apply pressure and start rotating the wheel using your fingers on the ?loose? end of the spring as a guide and alternating pressure from hand to hand while turning.
5) After every few turns, hold tightly with one set of fingers and pull the excess ?loose? spring tightly. You need to create a very tight wind.
6) By now, you may realize that you need a tissue or paper towel to sop up the blood where you?ve cut your finger. Suck it up and be a man, just bleed all over it!
7) Hopefully, at this point, you?ve got a tight wind and ready to install into the case, the rope is all twisted but don?t worry, you can straighten that out in a bit.
Fit number one.
Yep, it?s backwards. Throw it on to the floor and watch and hear it unwind (you have to be quick for it does this very quickly, guzzle alcohol, take a breather.
8) Repeat steps 1-7 but do it in the correct direction this time.
Fit number two.
You?re fingers and thumbs are starting to hurt but you?ve got too far to stop now. Can?t?..hold it?..any?.long??.er??.must??.(neat springy noise is heard so may be the cursing). Take a breather, loosen those stiff muscles in your fingers and hands by doing the ?mommy pick me up? thing that kids do, drink more alcohol.
You should understand why I suggested having something else on your mind by now. A 10 minute job has turned into 40 and it still isn?t fixed. Press on.
9) This is where you may scream ?SUCCESS!!!!? and do a little funky dance or something. It?s wound tight, in the right direction, and all you have to do is insert it into the case. Holding it firmly with one set of fingers, hold it as close to or in the housing as possible. With your free hand wielding a small screwdriver, pull and push, the elaborate bent end into the housing (it may not go all the way but as long as it hooked you?ll be ok). Set aside screwdriver and grab dangling rope. Quickly push the wheel with it?s newly wound spring into the housing. Holding it down firmly with your thumb in the center, let the rope wind itself slowly around the wheel.
Now install on engine?
No.
10) You now realize that there is two inches of rope hanging out of it and won?t go back in because the winding wasn?t tight enough and you have to do it all over again.
I told you a movie and alcohol helps.
If you've broken the rope you'll still have to go through all that sh** just without bending the spring.
