docphysics

Read these articles for break in and tuning.

http://rcvehicles.about.com/od/nitro.../f/breakin.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397
http://www.rccartips.com/rc-nitro-engine-tips.htm

As for as the throttle goes, your setup is backwards. There is a switch on the controller for the throttle channel (prob. channel 2) which says something like fwd/rev. Flip that switch for the throttle channel, then when you pull back on the trigger, the throttle servo will OPEN the carb barrel.

gjacques

Hi,

Great help docphysics, thanks for the advice. This is a very helpful site, think i will be back quite often.

Thanks again

shawndecoste

Gjacques, incase you havent already heard about all the people that melt the clutches, you may want to turn down your idle when you get it going. I think from the factory the idle is set to be higher then needed, and by turning it down it will save your clutch shoes.

gjacques

Thanks shawndecoste i am just trying to get the engine started???
When i adjust the idle speed what should the gap be on the carb opening, i get the engine running but it soon cut's out.....
I was reading the gap should be about 1mm in the neutral position

thecatofulthar

1 to 1.5 mm opening

shawndecoste

I had the same problem as you gjacques, what i did was open the main needle up 1/2 turn, which makes it run richer (pisses fuel everywhere) but that is what I had to do to get mine running. mine kept stalling and wouldnt take any throttle, after i opened it up, she took right off.

gjacques

Ok thanks,

Please be patient with me, think i have been adjusting the wrong screw the one i have been messing with alters the opening of the choke. Where do i find the main needle screw. Is it the bigger screw that sits up beside the air filter?

Cheers buddy your a great help.

Garry

thecatofulthar

Yeah the bigger needle up by the airfilter controlls the fuel controll if i knew how to post a pic i would.

gjacques

Ok ,

Which way should i turn it anti-clock or clockwise?
By the way what is your opening on your choke approx in mm, i just adjusted mine back to about 1.5mm in neutral..

Cheers

thecatofulthar

clock wise to lean the fuel flow
counter clockwise to richen it

this site helped me tune mine

http://www.rccartips.com/rc-nitro-engine-tips.htm

and these videos might help a little bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg

shawndecoste

I posted a link a few days ago for excel hobby, I just wanted to ask if anone has ordered parts from there? I have a few days ago and I decided today to contact them to see if the order was shipped yet, and the emails and phone #'s apear to be incorrect. I am not saying it is a bogus site, just wait to see if i get my parts before ordering anything. I will post a reply IF I do get my order.

gjacques

Thanks thecatofulthar


When i start the engine what position should the choke open be in, fully open or at its idle gap of about 1mm.

Cheers

docphysics

Idle gap of 1 mm.

RAGE555

gjacques, PM'd you mate... all these americans talk another language

gjacques

Hi,

Anyone got a picture on how the throttle and brake linkage should be set up on a speedy tiger. I am sure this is what my problem is. The manual is sh....it and i am not sure if i have done it right.
Thanks for any help

docphysics

Here you go dude!

thecatofulthar

Hey doc The way you have it setup looks just the way mine is setup. Do you think pulling that little rubber piece off the part that pulls the brake would help it brake better? Mine doesint brake very well because the rubber compresses so much.

TrailBlazer250

i have got my dogbones almost made. all i need is the pins. i made them on a lathe. on Monday i will drill out the pin holes, and tap some pins in.[img][/img][img][/img]

TrailBlazer250

the shafts are way thicker than the originals. the originals are .225 inches and mine are .250. the one on the right i made first, and i put a section of .225 on each end so it wont bind while steering. the one on the left i will put on the back because the ones on the back can be the same diameter all the way with out binding. what do you think? i was just trying to save $15 EDIT: i got my left and right mixed up i fixed it now

TrailBlazer250

i wouldn't pull he little rubber piece off, i would just tighten the little collar just in front of the rubber piece and the washer. slide it back, then tighten the set screw.

thecatofulthar

I did that but i was just curious if pulling the piece of rubber out would make them any better. Maybe i'll try it when the rain quits and post about my results.

TrailBlazer250

cool[sm=shades_smile.gif] btw i think that rubber thing is just a piece of fuel line just like on the pull start string. i read that putting fuel line on your dogbones makes them last longer

thecatofulthar

Yeah it is fuel tubing loooks identical to the rest of the tubing like that on my car, i heard somthing similer but it was that puting a piece of rubber inside the cups where the dogbones go will tighten up your dogbones makeing your cars driveline more responsive.

rcmaster5123

i took the fuel line off my pull start. it was riping up bad for some reason. hey have any of you ever had your engine run backwards? it is weird because i tought the one way bearing would prevent that. btw the engine did not run very good in reverse, i tried to go and all it would do is rev a little, enough to make the clutch bell go.

shawndecoste

good job on the dogbones Trailblazer. i had a hard crash with mine on the weekend, I am in the middle of programming a complete new front end, I cant believe all the damage that happened. the only thing that surived was the a arms that I already machined. , I will post some before and after pics.... what a mess, it would probally be a right off if I wasnt a machinist.