08-07-2002 | 12:34 PM
#85
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From: phoenix, AZ,
Well lets see... Most of these are all oldies but they still rule. The first one is my dragger Bolink Eliminator with associated pan car front suspension/ steering. I managed to stuff 12 cells in it and run a 15T dbbl motor. No esc for this one! I use dual microswitches. I had a friends dad who is with the pd radar my car and it reached 70mph! shortly after, one of the rear foams blew apart but I managed to steer it into a wheatfield near the road and avoid serious damage. It is now awaiting some new rear wheels. The red truck and the silver truck are both RC10T's. The silver 10T was my very first real RC car and that is what sparked my addiction to RC. It has titanium turnbuckles, full bearings, Explorer2 esc, MIP cvd's, and a speedgems 17T quad motor. It also sports a full lighting kit with foglights, headlights, blue rollbar lights and three brake lights. The red 10T is under reconstruction. VERY heavy reconstruction. I am in the process of converting it to 31cc weedwacker power! Im taking a bunch of pics with my good camera so Ill try to post a big story on it when its finished. So far I have added dual shocks for both back wheels, and connected an aluminum RC10 chassis to the front so it will have twice the weelbase and be more stable at high speeds. More on that project later. Hmmm... Next I have an RC10B2 which I race. That one has a Fusion esc, 16T Speedworks motor, bearings, purple screws and a fiberglass rear shock tower. The B2 is also the one that I jumped in the pic under my username. Next in line is the RS4 Rally. That one is pretty much stock except for the Chameleon motor. Its also got an explorer2 esc. Lastly there is the Tamiya MO4 Beetle. This is the one car that I dont drive much. The steering is just awful. I have completly disassembled the funky backwards bellcrank system and am going to try to convert it to direct steering, sorta like the steering on pan cars. The only cars this pic is missing are my Pro2 and RC10. Well thats all for now! Later!
-Jim
-Jim
They are fast too!
08-12-2002 | 08:33 AM
#91
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From: Silicon Valley, CA
Updated pics of my ride w/ the latest mods...
Man this thing is scary fast in this configuration. My buddies T-Maxx can't keep up!! If I hold one tire the opposite one (masher 2k) balloon's out to a 1/2" thick pancake!!
It's very, very difficult to steer using the same RC steering setup from my 19T setup. I'm gonna have to reduce the steering travel more to make it controllable. Speaking of control, when I disconnected the rear ESC, the front would light up the tires due to the power to weight ratio!!
The Power Pulse ESC's barely get warm, but my 3000mAH batteries only last 10 minutes when running hard and maybe 15 when run moderately.
Oh, the other thing is this setup makes you ensure you've locktightened everything you possibly can, because if you don't you're guarantee'd to loose whatever you forget to lock!!
Here are some pics of the setup, including the revised aluminum chassis with a longer "removeable" electronics tray.
The full chassis...
The electronics tray is screwed into mounts that are riveted into the chassis. I'm also using some industrial strength Velcro. According to the direction on the velcro packaging, it takes 3 days for the adhesive to cure fully!!
Some have put together some pretty fanciful custom battery holders when they built their chassis, but I went with KISS methods and used the original battery holders mounted into the original frame handles.
The new chassis weighs a full 2 oz lighter than the stock plastic chassis and is tons stronger!! I know especially after suffering a number of flips, rolls, and cartwheels during my initial 13T runs!!
Off Roader
It's very, very difficult to steer using the same RC steering setup from my 19T setup. I'm gonna have to reduce the steering travel more to make it controllable. Speaking of control, when I disconnected the rear ESC, the front would light up the tires due to the power to weight ratio!!
The Power Pulse ESC's barely get warm, but my 3000mAH batteries only last 10 minutes when running hard and maybe 15 when run moderately.
Oh, the other thing is this setup makes you ensure you've locktightened everything you possibly can, because if you don't you're guarantee'd to loose whatever you forget to lock!!
Here are some pics of the setup, including the revised aluminum chassis with a longer "removeable" electronics tray.
The full chassis...
The electronics tray is screwed into mounts that are riveted into the chassis. I'm also using some industrial strength Velcro. According to the direction on the velcro packaging, it takes 3 days for the adhesive to cure fully!!
Some have put together some pretty fanciful custom battery holders when they built their chassis, but I went with KISS methods and used the original battery holders mounted into the original frame handles.
The new chassis weighs a full 2 oz lighter than the stock plastic chassis and is tons stronger!! I know especially after suffering a number of flips, rolls, and cartwheels during my initial 13T runs!!
Off Roader
08-12-2002 | 07:16 PM
#93
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From: Silicon Valley, CA
Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
that's really neat... but what is it?!
later,
Garrett
that's really neat... but what is it?!
later,
Garrett
Thats a Tamiya Wild Dagger. I originally posted pics before the current mods starting at post #79 in this thread.
Off Roader
08-12-2002 | 07:35 PM
#94
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From: TX
that was a wild dagger?! wow! i have underestimated those things... i thought that a wild dagger was a "radio shack" type car. Ya know... a decent car, but not quite up to par. I was wrong.
L8r,
Garrett
L8r,
Garrett
08-12-2002 | 07:50 PM
#95
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From: Silicon Valley, CA
i thought that a wild dagger was a "radio shack" type car.
Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
that was a wild dagger?! wow! i have underestimated those things... i thought that a wild dagger was a "radio shack" type car. Ya know... a decent car, but not quite up to par. I was wrong.
L8r,
Garrett
that was a wild dagger?! wow! i have underestimated those things... i thought that a wild dagger was a "radio shack" type car. Ya know... a decent car, but not quite up to par. I was wrong.
L8r,
Garrett
Seriously, the dagger in stock form has some serious flaws for someone who wants to go fast.
1) MSC?!? Get real!! A super rooster would be great w/ 13T doubles. Mine has 2 batteries for the eventual EVX/Titan setup.
2) 3" friction shocks. Get real!! Upgrade to decent 4" oils with a custom or aftermarket shock tower.
3) Steering: Can you say breakage prone?!?! Mine is using an Alu. bellcrank system from the Dynamite custom mounted to the chassis.
4) Tires/Wheels: Not agreesive enough and too small. Best to upgrade to a modified setup. I'll be using a set of Maxx or Clod Wheels.
08-12-2002 | 08:18 PM
#96
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From: TX
i have the dynamite esc's, and i don't really like them... they aren't very smooth. ya know, i guess i'm saying this because i went from bottom-of-the-line esc to the top-of-the-line novak dually esc. well...
L8r,
Garrett
L8r,
Garrett
08-12-2002 | 10:04 PM
#97
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From: Silicon Valley, CA
Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
i have the dynamite esc's, and i don't really like them... they aren't very smooth. ya know, i guess i'm saying this because i went from bottom-of-the-line esc to the top-of-the-line novak dually esc. well...
L8r,
Garrett
i have the dynamite esc's, and i don't really like them... they aren't very smooth. ya know, i guess i'm saying this because i went from bottom-of-the-line esc to the top-of-the-line novak dually esc. well...
L8r,
Garrett
I know what you mean, but I'm more interested in getting it stable at speed. Then I'll go ahead and probably get either a SR or EVX setup. My understanding is the SR can handle dual 11T motors (fan required) and of course the EVX is self explanitory.
For now the dual dynamite's are more than adaquite for this task... and they definitely will bug out on demand, and the Pancake action is quite a site to see!!
Off Roader
