Need help with Basic RS4 Adjustment please! (newbie)
#1
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From: Norcross,
GA
Hey guys!
I finally put it together!
And I start it thinking the throttle is backed of...
It STARTS!! Then..... SSCCRREEEEEEEAAMMMMM!!!!
It was on FULL FRIGGIN THROTTLE!!
I was soo pissed.. FIRST time I started it...
I quickly killed it.. so it probably ran at full speed for about 2-3 seconds.. Do you think I would have done any permanent damage?
After that I ran an extra-long extra rich breakthrough.. I idled it for 2 full tanks of gas where it was barely running..
Then now I'm on the 5'th tank and I'm throttleing it up about half way now. Still running rich.
And btw.. HPI manual says.. CLOSE need.. then open it for
3 T U R N S..
What the heck is a turn? One complete revlution? Or one quick twist with your hand? I'm assuming its 1 full turn (dont wanna risk running lean). Speaking of lean/heat..where can I get a thermal monitor for less than 40 bucks?
When I throttle up.. the car picks up speed but VERY SLOWLY. I think the clutch is set very low and it doesnt "dig in" at all. I have to run it at decently high rpm for about 5-8 seconds before it starts to pick up..
How do I adjust this?
I thought the only adjustment was the point where I decide when the car shifts from first to second gear. The only clutch that can be responsible for this is on the engine shaft itself, and its controlled by a spring with a set strength.
I dont wanna revv it up too high at this point, which also keeps me in the dark as to how high this sucker can revv
Thanks for reading!
I'm just looking for "Do this" and "Do that"s...
-Ram
I finally put it together!
And I start it thinking the throttle is backed of...
It STARTS!! Then..... SSCCRREEEEEEEAAMMMMM!!!!
It was on FULL FRIGGIN THROTTLE!!
I was soo pissed.. FIRST time I started it...
I quickly killed it.. so it probably ran at full speed for about 2-3 seconds.. Do you think I would have done any permanent damage?
After that I ran an extra-long extra rich breakthrough.. I idled it for 2 full tanks of gas where it was barely running..
Then now I'm on the 5'th tank and I'm throttleing it up about half way now. Still running rich.
And btw.. HPI manual says.. CLOSE need.. then open it for
3 T U R N S..
What the heck is a turn? One complete revlution? Or one quick twist with your hand? I'm assuming its 1 full turn (dont wanna risk running lean). Speaking of lean/heat..where can I get a thermal monitor for less than 40 bucks?
When I throttle up.. the car picks up speed but VERY SLOWLY. I think the clutch is set very low and it doesnt "dig in" at all. I have to run it at decently high rpm for about 5-8 seconds before it starts to pick up..
How do I adjust this?
I thought the only adjustment was the point where I decide when the car shifts from first to second gear. The only clutch that can be responsible for this is on the engine shaft itself, and its controlled by a spring with a set strength.
I dont wanna revv it up too high at this point, which also keeps me in the dark as to how high this sucker can revv

Thanks for reading!
I'm just looking for "Do this" and "Do that"s...
-Ram
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From: Bear DE
I'm also a newbie, but you have a type ss, right? That 12SS engine can rev pretty high
. I heard one at my LHS. Anyway, about the full throttle thing(that sucks
), it wasn't good, but if she's still running, you should be okay. You can pick up a thermal monitor on towerhobbies for around $35(I think). One turn is one complete revolution (360 degrees). About the clutch, i'm not familar with the one that comes stock, as the only nitro car i've worked on is my own (nitro rs4 2) which I purchased used, and it came with the racing clutch ($15 on TH). There should be a way to adjust when it engages, as with mine you can set it 3 different ways (there are 3 holes on each side, so you just pick it up off the flywheel and stick the flywheel pins in different holes). That clutch would be a great upgrade since you have a 2speed.
You picked a great car, and I hope you enjoy it. BTW, please tell me how that engine is when you run it full throttle (it's hard to keep that finger half-way, isn't it
) because I'm thinking about getting a 12SS for my ride. Good luck, Josh
. I heard one at my LHS. Anyway, about the full throttle thing(that sucks
), it wasn't good, but if she's still running, you should be okay. You can pick up a thermal monitor on towerhobbies for around $35(I think). One turn is one complete revolution (360 degrees). About the clutch, i'm not familar with the one that comes stock, as the only nitro car i've worked on is my own (nitro rs4 2) which I purchased used, and it came with the racing clutch ($15 on TH). There should be a way to adjust when it engages, as with mine you can set it 3 different ways (there are 3 holes on each side, so you just pick it up off the flywheel and stick the flywheel pins in different holes). That clutch would be a great upgrade since you have a 2speed.You picked a great car, and I hope you enjoy it. BTW, please tell me how that engine is when you run it full throttle (it's hard to keep that finger half-way, isn't it
) because I'm thinking about getting a 12SS for my ride. Good luck, Josh
#3
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From: Atlanta, GA
I would not worry about the engine, I don't think you did any damage at all as long as you shut it down real quick. Its high temperatures that do the damage and it sounds like you shut it down before it had time to heat up. Just make sure to always check the throttle before starting and get a throttle return spring if you don't already have one.
Sounds like you have a good break in going so should turn out to be a good engine.
As for the needle, if you were to mark the edge of the needle (brass colored) housing with a permanent marker, then put a small mark on the actual screw, one turn would be from mark to mark all the way around. Should be clockwise to close until resistance is met, then 3 complete turns from mark to mark counter clockwise.
As for the sluggish low end, It could just be the fact that the engine is rich right now and is just not on power.
I suggest that you complete the break in and get your engine singing before you make any modifications or add parts.
For future reference always add parts and upgrades one at a time, this will allow you to see the full effect that each upgrade has.
Adding several at a time will confuse you because you wont see what actually is causing the change in behavior. This will keep you from learning the car.
The temp gauges are cool and I have not seen this second generation so I cant say about em.
I had one of the original MIP gauges and they are cool but there is some latency in the response time.
Anyhow I use a Raytek handheld temp gauge, they are a little more expensive (Around $60 or so) but more accurate in my mind.
The On boards are more convenient in that you don't have to carry them around and so forth.
Dbow
Sounds like you have a good break in going so should turn out to be a good engine.
As for the needle, if you were to mark the edge of the needle (brass colored) housing with a permanent marker, then put a small mark on the actual screw, one turn would be from mark to mark all the way around. Should be clockwise to close until resistance is met, then 3 complete turns from mark to mark counter clockwise.
As for the sluggish low end, It could just be the fact that the engine is rich right now and is just not on power.
I suggest that you complete the break in and get your engine singing before you make any modifications or add parts.
For future reference always add parts and upgrades one at a time, this will allow you to see the full effect that each upgrade has.
Adding several at a time will confuse you because you wont see what actually is causing the change in behavior. This will keep you from learning the car.
The temp gauges are cool and I have not seen this second generation so I cant say about em.
I had one of the original MIP gauges and they are cool but there is some latency in the response time.
Anyhow I use a Raytek handheld temp gauge, they are a little more expensive (Around $60 or so) but more accurate in my mind.
The On boards are more convenient in that you don't have to carry them around and so forth.
Dbow



