ringelbeast

I own a RC10GT with the stock Thunder Tiger engine. .15 The exhaust bolts keep coming lose. Any sugestions besides adding lock washers, and nuts. Also thought about getting the Stinger rear exhaust kit. But the kit is for a .12 engines and I have the .15. I noticed the manifold is much smaller than my stock manifold. Will that kit work with my .15. Any thoughts or comments please, just asking for help.

crash_me_over

My Feedback: (16)

Seems like someone else had this problem. If memory serves me (when would that be)....I believe the post said to try longer screws that go through where the exhaust bolts hold the muffler on.....and use lock nuts on the longer screws? It's been awhile but somehow that seems to make sense to me.

Good Luck!

ringelbeast

I tryed that and they still vibrate lose. Any other suggestions.


Thanks

ae4xo

I posted about this problem this morning!
thanks!

crash_me_over

My Feedback: (16)

Hmmmm....How about putting some loctite on the nut after you tighten it down? And....possibly placing "two nuts" onto the bolt if it's long enough to house them? Just a thought.

RS4_3_ss

I put two nuts on mine and they have not seem to come lose since then.

BUGGIES_R_US

yep.. I made sure loctite was all over the place.. I only have one nut and its still there!
If that doesnt work.. super-glue that nut in there! lol
-ram

hoodiegadoo

Yeah after a little while Thread Lock becomes your best friend I would try that with one nut and see what happens.

ringelbeast

This is the second time that I have done this. New bolts with lock washers and new nuts. I put lock washers on the front of the bolts where it enters the block, and lock washers before the nuts. Good thing the exhaust gaskets come in sets of threes. See the picture.

ringelbeast

It is my understanding that you should not use thread lock on any part of the engine. According to Associated, Thunder Tiger, and HPI. I used it on all of my screws that are screwed into metal, for example my motor mount.

crash_me_over

My Feedback: (16)

AS for using loctite on any part of the engine......well if your screws are coming loose it seems like you really have no choice.

What kind of screws are you using? Have you tried different kinds? I remember having to use two locknut's on an airplane engine/muffler and that was the fix for it......and I have even used epoxy on a few of the fuel nipples that broke at the base of the carb and fixed that problem that way.

I know how you feel......you don't want to "glue" everything up in case you need to tear it apart. If your decide to use the loctite on the screws/nuts.....just be sure that you buff them with a wire brush to help etch the metal and then clean with rubbing alcohol before putting on the loctite. Also....I would only use the blue loctite.

Good Luck!

ringelbeast

Thanks for the info!

Yes, this time I tried some different bolts. I bought these at ACE hardware. They are the same thread as the old or stock bolts. But the head is a little bigger.

This time I used lock washers before the nuts. I tried to fined some locking nuts, but could not find them in the size that I needed. If this doesn't work I will try two nuts and some loctite.

ae4xo

I bought 3x30mm bolts from AE and then I got lock washers and lock nuts from Duratrax. I put a bunch of locktite on there and I havent run my truck in a week. Hopefully this will solve my issue..


Chris

elbowcreek

BLUE THREAD LOCK is the only cure and yes a stinger exhaust will work on the .15

ae4xo

Hey It worked~ ! I used 3x30mm bolts, lock washers, and nuts and the thing has run 3 times and they have not come out! I actually can run my car anytime I want to. This is great! Thanks

Ya'll are very helpful...

chris