Well, my truck's engine is dead. The story is, I stripped a spur gear a few months back, and finally got a new one yesterday. (Along with a fuel filter, air filter, and tuned pipe.) But now that I try to start it, it's just gone. First, the primer pump wouldn't work, so I stuck my thumb over the exhaust and turned it over a few times to prime it. But even with fuel in the engine, it's not doing much. The glow plug is lit up very brightly, I just bought new fuel, and it still isn't starting. If I totally flood the engine, I can get it to run for a second or two, but then it burns off the fuel which has built up, and quits. The only thing I can see which would be wrong is that the first coil on my glow plug doesn't glow, even when the rest is glowing. Is the first coil some other type of metal? The rest of the plug can be very bright, but it doesn't glow. However, with the majority of it glowing, this shouldn't be a problem. One other thing is that it's currently about 20 degrees outside right now. However, even with the starter battery on the plug providing heat, it can't keep idling. Is there a certain throttle setting that would help with starting? Also, another small problem is that my new tuned pipe seems to constantly fall off from the manifold due to the rubber sleeve slipping off. How can I keep it together? Thanks in advance.

First your starting problem....

I would just riching up your high speed needle setting about 1/8th of a turn and also adjust your idle screw on the carb so that it is open slight more than 1mm with your brake applied.

The cold weather can affect the difficulting in getting the engine cranked over, you may want to try warming it up a bit with a hair drier....


As far as your tuned pipe falling off, are you using a zip tie to help retain the pipe flange in the rubber coupling? If yes and this does not seem to be the problem, you can flare the end of the pipe slighty with a screw driver to create a lip that will should help keep it secured.....

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/get_enginestart2.asp

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_7step2.asp

Also make sure you don't have any air leaks in your pressure line or tank lid. If it will run for a few when flooded and then die, it may not be sending fuel to the carb.

Since you have not run it for a few months....maybe the carb has blockage due to varnish build up.....or maybe is dirty and needs a good cleaning? Just a thought.

I cleaned the carb with degreaser, and the engine seems a bit better. A night inside (out of the cold) probably didn't hurt either. Now I have a new problem however...

The three wires leading to the throttle servo are stripped on one side right where they go into the servo, and are porbably touching considering the fact that the servo is all twitchy. I'll buy a new one, but for now, is there anything I can do to seal things up? (I just want to drive the thing! )

With wires touching.....that aren't suppose to be touching....you'll have to separate the wires "very carefully"....maybe with an exacto knife....the make sure the wires are each in tact.....add a little solder if you have to if there is any fraying to the wires....then either use electrical tape to wrap each wire individually...or whatever you prefer.....so the wires do not touch one another....maybe applying a little amount of silicone to help seal around your repair work so moisture won't get in. This might a good time to use a magnifying glass while you work in case your eyes like to play tricks on you.

Good Luck!

How old is your fuel and how was it stored? You may have built up some water condensation in the fuel.

I think crash hit the nail on the head.....did you use after oil after the last time you ran it? It just might be all crapped up on the inside from old fuel.

Yeah, I think the carb must've been a little dirty. Although while I was running it, it lost a carb screw, so now I have to order a new screw. (I have just about nothing in the way of hobby shops near here.) However, I'm still having trouble getting it started at normal throttle. How can I help it? Opening the throttle and starting it is just scary. It starts up and flies into full throttle. Lifting it off the ground until I'm ready to let it go makes the revs go dangerously high.

check your batt pack.

I don't quite know what you're getting at. The servo problem is figured out. The wires are touching.

you said its revving when its running check your batt pack just a suggestion when the batts get low the throttle sticks open

I see what you mean, but that's not really the problem. To start it, I have to turn the car's electronics on, turn the throttle servo to full throttle, and start it. It doesn't really start at normal throttle. The problem is, starting it with the throttle open is quite violent. The car starts, and within a second, it's driving away at full speed. There's no time to prepare the car for driving once it's started (Take the battery off, turn on the radio.) And I can't turn on the radio beforehand, because then I'd need to hold the trigger to keep the the throttle open, and I don't have any hands free while starting the car. So the main problem is basically how does one get a car to start at normal throttle when it usually only works at full throttle.

Sad, little man......First things first.

If your throttle will not work properly.....it should be the first thing you attend to so your rig is not going "out of control" on start up.

Your going to be the one to determine why it's not working properly.....so you'll need to look at what is causing it to behave in the manner that it is. That being said....

1. How is the linkage set up from the servo to the carburetor? Is it sticking / binding? If so...you'll need to fix that.

2. With the linkage removed from the carb....can you move the barrel freely with the air filter off and see it moving freely? Is it opening all the way....and closing to around 1mm? If not....then you'll have to look for reasons why.

3. Starting an engine.....any engine from a cold condition and going to a high RMP is not good on them. Once started.....letting the engine come up to an operating temperature is the best method before laying on the throttle. Since your engine is not working properly....I would be working to resolve whatever is causing it to start wide open upon start up.....before you damage it.

4. With the radio gear turned on....and all settings are set at a neutral position.....with air filter off of the carb....look into the carb to see how far it's opened up. Is it at or around 1mm opened? If not....then you have some adjusting to do to the throttle linkage....check it out. Something is not allowing the carb to work properly.

5. You mentioned that you lost a screw? What screw did you loose? Has it been replaced? Maybe you should wait until you have the new one in it's place?

6. You can use the trim settings on your radio to help open the carb barrel far enough to get the engine started without needing two people. Just adjust the throttle trim to open the barrel on the carb so you can get it started.....once started....move the rim back to where it was.

Most of all....be safe! If it's taking off out of control....no telling what's going to happen. Reaction time can be split second and I know you don't want to hurt your rig or someone watching you.

Good Luck!

1. Nope, linkage is fine. As said, the throttle servo is now fine, having it open on startup is my own doing.

2. Yep, moving fine.

3. I see. Well, it's just kind of tough because at normal throttle it makes no attempt to start.

4. Yes, I've been messing with the low speed needle so it doesn't close all the way.

5. Actually all this talk is kind of hypothetical. The screw that holds on the carb came off, and I won't be starting it until I get a new one. But I anticipate having all of the problems I had before I lost the screw once I get a new one. So I'd like to figure out what I should do before I get a new one so I can just pop in the screw and hopefully run without a hitch.

6. Yeah, I could use the trim, but ideally I'd just like the car to start at a low idle so it doesn't drive away at all.

And lastly, yes... I'd like to get it to start without the throttle open to be safe. I know those high revs are dangerous, and it's a very frightening experience because there's no button you can just push to turn off the engine. But luckily I'm using it in a place where the only possible damage to be done is to the truck itself.

#5. Screw is missing......If the carb is not tightened down completely...it's possible that you have an air leak at that point where the screw is missing. There is usually a seal that is around the base of the carb that helps to make the seal....and by torquing down the screw you accomplish two things. 1....you keep the carb in place....2....you help keep the seal in tact so there is no air leaking at that point. I'm sure you have already figured that out....buy am just trying to help you consider all possible things.

Also if you've been messing with the low speed needle i would suggest richening it alot....it might be a case where you are playing with it way too lean and the engine just isn't getting the fuel unless you open the throttle. Try to richen the LOW speed needle alot and see if that works for you.