Hi all, I just ordered my first nitro r/c car today, a RC10GT Team Built, and I am really stoked about it. I havent driven a r/c car in about 10 years, when I was younger my dad bought me a few battery operated ones, but it was a expensive hobby that I really couldnt keep up at age 11 . Anyways, I was talking to my brother the other day reminissing about his old RC10 and how cool they were, and then started talking about how cool a gas powered one would be -- long story short, I went and bought this car on a whim without really doing my homework.

This is the kit I ordered: rc10gt

I have absolutely no nitro r/c experience, so here is what I have gathered so far: I need to buy a radio and engine... this is the non pullstart kit, so I am assuming the only other option is glow start? I have been browsing sites, and there are a lot of different accessories for glow start, so I have no clue what I need and what is optional.

Now, for the questions...

1: I have no idea what kind of engine to get, I see there is basicly .12 .15 and .17, but in all honesty I have no idea what those numbers mean I would obviously like the faster engine, but I would like to get one that is only ~$100. Any suggestions?

2: From the nitro pictures I've seen so far, they all have mufflers -- do engines generally come with mufflers, or is that something I need to buy seperately?

3: Could someone explain the "glow start" process to me in lamens terms?

4: How long do nitro cars tend to go off of a tank of gas? The absolute worst part of battery cars was charging for 30 minutes and only getting 5 minutes of drive time out of them . Hoping nitro cars last a little longer.

What it really comes down to is I need to know what I have to order to get this thing going... I know I need a radio and engine, but not sure what other parts are necessary. There is a hobby shop that sells r/c stuff by my parents house... I was thinking about going in there and having them set me up, but I know I can get everything at a nicer price on the internet.

Sorry for all the questions, but I am totally new to everything nitro... I am so excited though, cant wait to get this puppy in the mail. I would really appreciate any tips you guys could give me, these forums look great and I plan on being here all the time now.

Thanks again,

baddy

I'm a newbie myself, but think I can answer some of your basic questions - I won't make any specific brand recommendations because I just don't know at this point (lack of experience).

Point 1 - I have seen MANY .12, .15 and .17 engines for around 100$, but from what I've gathered over the past several months you won't be getting a race engine for that price (200$+ generally).

Point 2 - You will need to buy a pipe and header separately, usually the LHS or shop you buy from will be able to tell you what you need based on the engine you own or are buying.

Point 3 - Boiling it down, you need a way to heat the glow plug before turning over the engine. You can do this with a glow starter or the panel on the front of a starter box with leads. Once the glow plug is 'glowing' you can start turning the motor over expecting it to fire. This can be accomplished with a starter box - it engages the flywheel, hence cranking the engine.

Point 4 - The typical nitro car will run around 12+ minutes, at least from what I've experienced just bashing around.

Keep hanging out here and asking questions. There's quite a few knowledgeable members that will probably do way better than me at answering your questions.

Also, check out the R/C magazines' web sites (do a search) for other tips and tricks.

Have fun,
SlingItX

I am not really addressing your questions at this time (will try another time) but am including a couple of links that may be useful for you to help out with other questions you may have in the future.

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/index.asp

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/index.asp

Welcome to RCU!

Good Luck!

First off leme say that the RC10GT is so popular I dont think theres any way to make a mistake with that! Good choice!

The kits are available in many varieties and what comes with it depends on what you buy.
the RTR (Ready to Run) kits come with virtually EVERYTHING you need..

The assembly required kits usually require a Radio..

And the more advanced kits come with just a chassis and you have to buy almost everything else

Glow engines.. they are pretty much like diesel engines.. Once started they diesel through their ifnition cycle uising the glow plug for heat.

dang it.. I gotta go to work.. I'll write more from work if i can
-ram

Do you have a little more information as to which kit you bought? Rc10GT's have several kits from the team truck to the RTR version. Knowing what kit would help with what accessories you will need. For example I bought the team version non-pullstart, which came with header, pipe, bearings, and the basic car with other nice accessories. I had to buy the engine, radio, glow starter and starter box separate.



Danny

Thanks for the help guys...

danny: I ordered the kit NIB off eBay, so I don't know the exacty product number at the moment. What I know of it is it is the team built, non-pull start version that requires engine and radio. It is the Team Edition, which I think is the more souped up one (?)... here is the box:

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/jsteinmuel/ASSOCIATED

And the seller described it as:

"BRAND NEW" ASSOCIATED RC10GT TEAM EDITION
FACTORY BUILT


... that is all I really know at the moment untill I get it in the mail, hopefully I made a good buy.

Also, since this is the non-pullstart version, is it impossible to put a pullstart engine in there, or is it just have the chasis designed for glowstart ones?

Thanks again for the help guys.

the chasi comes with a non- pull start engine mount. you will have to buy a pullstart mount in order to use a pull start engine. If you are intrested i can sell you a .15 thunder tiger(the one that comes on the rtr version). it doesnt have a pull start on it but you can buy a replacment one for cheap. IT has the pullstart mount and also has a pull start flyweel. you will need clutch bell and shoes aswell. Its not brand new but it is still going strong. shoot me a e-mail: [email protected].

In order to start a non-pullstart engine you will need either a starter box(60-150 bucks) or you can go the cheap route like me and bought a hand held(20-30 bucks) and a rubber adapter wheel to start the engine. hope this helps

a .12 engine is used for racing beacasue it has a high rpm and better fuel efficiancy then a larger engine. although it can have less tourque

a .15 is the ultimate sport size engine for stadium trucks. it has plenty of torwue and good rpm. if you are going to be bashing with the occasional "club level" race a .15 is the way to go.

.17 isnt very common other then in a duratrax stadium truck. there isnt very many engine manufactures that make .17 size engines for cars and trucks.

as a general rule .12s and .15s are used in stadium trucks. now if your not new to the hobby and can do some tricky modification it is possible to mount a .21 in a truck but i strongly do NOT recommend trying this. i have been in the rc nitro sceme for 7 years and wont touch any kind of modification like that.

Hi Baddy,

Ya I would agree, you did run out and grab a car without doing your homework. But this is sometimes not a problem it just depends on the person, Actually this is how I get into a lot of my hobbies, buying part by part as I learn.

You have quite a few LARGE questions here, so what i suggest is that we handle each question one by one. I suggest we start with your number one, discuss that then move on once everyone feels comfortable. Lets keep this all in the same thread and that way it can be informative for future members.

At the same time Baddy I suggest you do some searches and read on your own.
With that said...ENGINE!

1. The engine choice is really easy in my opinion.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUU27&P=7
This is the Standard short crank version which is what you need for the RC10GT. This is also whithin your price range.
Now, if you purchase ths engine (non pullstart) then you will need a starter box and a battery like this:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAXU2&P=7

This starter box comes with a 12v battery and will also run a wired glow heater:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUC32&P=7
This is what starts the car.

The only other thing you will need is a charger for the 12 volt battery.
Look it up on Tower Hobbies website.

Now on the other side You could go with a pullstart, which is a self contained recoil starter bolted onto the side of the engine.
This eliminates the need for the starter box and all that.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZ17&P=7

Again I chose O.S due to its popularity and ease of tuning etc, great for a beginner in my opinion.
You would need a different type of glow heater to start this engine since you wont have the starter box battery to start it.
Something like this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ802&P=7

You would also need a battery for this, you will find comments in the notes about that.


The pipe and header should be in your kit, both these engines will fit as most will.


Now thats the internet side of things and accounts that you can put all this together and make it work, which is not hard BUT if you have a good local hobby shop your best bet might be to grab most of your stuff there. That way you can get support and get the needed advice, given you are going to pay more for it but I feel its a reasonable price.
If you do not have a good local shop, then stick with the internet and on with the thread.

Well thats all the time I have for now, thats a bit for you to chew on.
There are lots of very good people here on this forum, Im sure we can get you going if you choose to go the internet route..

Dbow, if he goes to pull start, wont he also need to purchase the pull start header? Since it was a non-pullstart kit it will have the wrong header for pull start. If I missed this in the above posts, please excuse.


Danny

I would suggest an OS engine there fairly cheap and they're pretty good engines. For a little more you can get a novarossi. I love those engines.

If you buy just the engine then that's exactly what you get. Get a tuned exhaust pipe they are worth the money. I noticed a big increase in overall speed and especially performance. But if your car kit comes with a single speed transmission get a multi-speed transmission they have a more bang-for-the-buck quality. Especailly in the speed department.

A glow engine uses a glow plug (usually on the top of the engine). This works like your typical car spark plug. You have to use a heating device which is usually re-chargeable and place it over the glow plug to heat it up. You then turn the engine over using either a pullstart (like on a lawnmower or chainsaw) or a starter box which has a wheel on top which spins the flywheel when you press down. The heat from the glow plug sparks the gas which forces the piston to move which turns the shaft which turns the flywheel and so on.

Nitro cars get between 10-15 mins. of driving time out of one tank of gas. Which is longer than it sounds. If its shorter than that than you're most likely running rich, or too lean if its longer than that period.

I couldn't help you out about what you need. Most incomplete kit cars need a radio (sometimes the servo's too) an engine & maybe an exhaust. I would just go down to your local hobbie store. they should be able to help you out.

Oh a few words of advice. Don't be too excited about driving your car right away. You need to break in the engine. I usually waste about 5 or 6 tanks before I go balls out. The first two you basically want to just run the engine. The next two you can drive the car at very low speeds. And the next one a little faster with some steady speed increases and the last you can drive a little faster with some short full speed intervals. Don't expect to get your engine in tune right away. I always break my engines in on the very rich side. Not so rich that it won't stay running or even go. Good luck and have fun.

nopistonrx7, This is an RC10GT. I don't believe anyone makes a 2-speed for them. Atleast, I haven't found one yet.

Danny

Reddogdan: You're right. I can't belive I said that. Forgive me guys for my stupidity. I was writing this post just before I ran out the door so I didn't fully read it word for word. Sorry guys. :stupid:

Attention: If there are any manufacturers out there, we need a 2-speed for the RC10GT. I wonder why one hasn't come out yet.


Danny
_____________________________________
(whimsical saying to be placed here someday)

Also.. If you have not used nitro powered cars.. there is one HUGE difference.. You need to BREAK IN these engines before you run them like mad..

There are plenty of places you can research that including your manual so I wont go into detail.
Just make sure you do that!

Ok I really should go do that physics lab.. due in 2 hours?! AHH!!!
bye

baddy,
There is a lot of good info from the above guys, and with the RC10GT there is even more homework to be done than with most other cars, since they have many different setups, pullstart, no-pull, side or rear exhaust, shaft length, blablabla......you will have to wait for your car and go over the specs, and while it is great to get cheaper prices on the net, the net won't help you when you can't figure something out. If your local hobby shop is willing to lend you a hand, and their prices are not too much more, than it is a nice gesture to return the favor by suporting them. If you need a 4 dollar glow plug, do you always want to wait for it plus pay 6 bucks on top of that for shipping? You will have to someday if your local store goes out of business due to lack of business, but if they are jerks there, than they should go out of business. If there is a lot of stuff you need, ask them to cut you a deal, but remember to be upfront with them.
Anyways, the thing I wanted to add was, since you don't have any nitro experience, "RICH" means that the engine is using a lot of fuel compared to air, and "LEAN" means it is using less fuel. The part that controls that is called a needle valve. Think of it as a water facuet. Open is rich, you get the gas flowing, and closing it(clockwise) shuts off the fuel flow. Also think of it this way, open, more flow, more COOLING, closed, less flow, LESS cooling. The fuel carries in it the mixed oils, more oil flows when it is rich......but it is faster when it is lean......the trick here is finding a point in between, but on the rich side to prevent over heating and damaging your engine. That is nitro engines 101. Go see your hobby shop.