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Venting the Body for the Engine

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Old 02-28-2003 | 01:38 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

Originally posted by hoodiegadoo
I think you started a trend...
heheh.. dBow started it... I think I was his first follower.... heheh
Old 02-28-2003 | 04:13 PM
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Default Yah right!

I'm still laughing my a** off at dbow's gotcha thing under the other post!........Thought i'd try it here I should have known it wouldn't work!

Or it could be you just like givin me sh*t Celly!


tom
Old 02-28-2003 | 04:19 PM
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Default Re: Yah right!

Originally posted by buyrbware
I'm still laughing my a** off at dbow's gotcha thing under the other post!........Thought i'd try it here I should have known it wouldn't work!

Or it could be you just like givin me sh*t Celly!


tom
Tom, I don't sigle you out... It's a universal thing... hehehe
Old 03-01-2003 | 01:08 AM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

like i said earlier in this topic

if you want to see air flow use smoke and a fan.
just use a smoke bomb infront of a nice big fan(shop fan,box fan) and you will see where the air flows fastest,creates pockets, causes drag,etc.

i dont remember from high school about wind speed and mph if they are equal (1mph speed=1 mph wind) but im sure someone here can remind us.
hell if i was still at work i can borrow an actual air flow measuring device from one of the tin knockers (they use it to test a/c air flow)and test out my leaf blower and convert it to mph. then set my truck down and see exactly where the air flow is best.
Old 03-01-2003 | 04:15 AM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

Originally posted by packfan88
like i said earlier in this topic

if you want to see air flow use smoke and a fan.
just use a smoke bomb infront of a nice big fan(shop fan,box fan) and you will see where the air flows fastest,creates pockets, causes drag,etc.

i dont remember from high school about wind speed and mph if they are equal (1mph speed=1 mph wind) but im sure someone here can remind us.
hell if i was still at work i can borrow an actual air flow measuring device from one of the tin knockers (they use it to test a/c air flow)and test out my leaf blower and convert it to mph. then set my truck down and see exactly where the air flow is best.
you really have too much time on your hands lol
Old 03-01-2003 | 07:20 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

like i said in anothe rpost ... im unemployed ...lots of time on my hands lol......someone send em some smoke bombs and ill break out the leaf blower
Old 03-01-2003 | 07:44 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

BE carefull!

Remember that your engine's sleeve and piston expand at different rates!!

If you run your engine too cool, your engine's sleeve is actually smaller than its meant to be (at say ~250 degrees) and you will actually give it more wear than it should see!!!
Theoretically of course!

ram
Old 03-01-2003 | 08:59 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

Packfan, i dont know how well smoke bombs would do going through the U.S. postal service lol
Old 03-01-2003 | 09:20 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

true about smoke bombs in the mail lol
Old 03-01-2003 | 11:23 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

Originally posted by BUGGIES_R_US
BE carefull!

Remember that your engine's sleeve and piston expand at different rates!!

If you run your engine too cool, your engine's sleeve is actually smaller than its meant to be (at say ~250 degrees) and you will actually give it more wear than it should see!!!
Theoretically of course!

ram
Huh?

HMMMMMMMMMMMM!

HUH?

I am not sure your correct about this? But I have only been a machinist/ Mechanic and airline engine airframe inspector for about 20 years...We might have a new topic to discuss. On a two stroke motor with a dry sump (oil added in fuel) low tempeture doesn't propose a problem. The lubricant lubricates as advertised! The colder the tighter, the tighter the more acceptable to the lubericant...Wear starts with excessive heat and vibration.......If it was a wet sump like a real car than the lube would be too thick at colder temps and that would produce excessive wear....But thats not the case with these engines...Just my 2 cents,,, Tom
Old 03-02-2003 | 01:01 AM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

Well I thought it makes sense that since this is a brass plated alloy.. it would be a lot more temperature sensitive than a block aluminum cylinder block?!

I'm not quite sure yet but I'm just wondering if this makes sense
ram
Old 03-02-2003 | 03:43 AM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

I wpould still say no, But like my Bio says I'm not the brightest Crayon in the box!

Tom
Old 03-02-2003 | 07:00 PM
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Default Venting the Body for the Engine

ok I'm lost now I thought I new but now I'm not sure wich is better colder or hotter?????
Old 03-03-2003 | 01:24 PM
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Default Warm

Normal operating range is always the best! Running a two cycle cold will not cause excessive wear...The oil being added in with the fuel is not thick like a real scale Cold car would be...That is what causes the excessive wear, the fact that your lubricant is two thick to get into small places two lubricant...

Too hot would easely cause excessive wear because of fatigue to the metal components and at that point lubricant plays no factor Excessive heat damages on its own..

This is not rocket science, Nor am I trying to start another huge debate, This is just the story of the 2 cycle engine...And remember normal operating tempetures are the best...My point was just that excessive wear is not a factor on a cold engine!!!!

Tom....

Gratutious fuel referance,, since all my post have one!!!


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