RS4 3 EVO Nitro Start Problem
05-30-2007 | 01:27 PM
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From: Blackwell, OK
RS4 3 EVO Nitro Start Problem
Hi,
I am new here. I have purchase a brand new HPI RS4 3 EVO Nitro RTR off from ebay. I have fill the fuel in the tank, prime it. Checked the glow plug to be sure if it's good. Insert roto start and plug in glow charge. I have tried start it sever time and nothing. Am i missing something?
I am new here. I have purchase a brand new HPI RS4 3 EVO Nitro RTR off from ebay. I have fill the fuel in the tank, prime it. Checked the glow plug to be sure if it's good. Insert roto start and plug in glow charge. I have tried start it sever time and nothing. Am i missing something?
05-30-2007 | 01:45 PM
#2
RE: RS4 3 EVO Nitro Start Problem
yes, you need to read this http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5517128/tm.htm all of it
05-30-2007 | 02:36 PM
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From: Blackwell, OK
RE: RS4 3 EVO Nitro Start Problem
I follow the exactly instruction on HPI manual book and didn't work then i follow exactly on your instruction, Again nothing. It just refuse start at all. I am having difficulties time with this nitro rs4 3 evo! Also at sometime when i roto start the motor, It stop rotary. It is not flooded because i watched the tube while i primer. I stop primer very exactly when the fuel have reached to carb. But in case if it is really flooded, What do i have to do to unflooded it?
Okay, so you just got your brand new nitro R/C, you are psyched and ready to tear up the streets, but first you must perform a proper break in procedure for your engine unless you want to be buying a new one very soon.
So to start off, you will need to correctly adjust your linkages to work properly (see Linkage Setup below) and make sure your fuel tubing is routed properly (tank pickup to carburetor nipple, pipe pressure nipple to tank pressure fitting.
First, you will need to preheat the engine by taking a hairdryer or heat gun and heating the top of the engines cooling head for about a minute or a little more. Heating the engine up relieves cylinder pinch; therefore the engine will be much easier to crank over.
Side note: Pinch will make your engine hard to turn over. This is why your engine always seems to get stuck, the reason it happens is the cylinder is smaller at the top than it is at the bottom; therefore it’s harder to push the piston through at the top. The reason for pinch is compression, since nitro’s don’t have piston rings, we have to use pinch.
Now you just need to fill the fuel tank up with proper fuel and prime the engine.
Priming Techniques:
-Tank primer: Some fuel tanks are equipped with a built in tank primer; in this case, all you have to do is press down on the priming rod and watch the fuel go to the carburetor.
-Stinger priming: If your fuel tank is not equipped with a built in primer, then just put your finger over the pipe’s stinger (most people just call it the opening in the pipe) and then turn the engine over by means of pull start or whatever. This will push the fuel to the carburetor.
-Mouth priming: While it does sound discouraging, all you have to do is remove the fuel tubing from the exhaust pipe pressure fitting and blow into it (remember not to suck in or you will be drinking hazardous fuel), this will cause the fuel to be forced through the tubing and to the carburetor.
When priming an engine, there is no need to shove excess fuel into it in hopes of it starting easier (actually the opposite of what you think), all that is required is to bring the fuel to the carburetor, no more, once you see it just barely go in then stop and that is enough. If you get good enough at priming, then your engine can start easily on the 1st pull.
Once you have these steps completed, turn on the radio transmitter (TX) and the receiver (RX) and do a quick run through, testing brakes, linkages, carburetor opening, and steering. Now place your fully charged glow igniter on the glow plug and crank the engine by pull start, roto-start, or whatever is used.
So to start off, you will need to correctly adjust your linkages to work properly (see Linkage Setup below) and make sure your fuel tubing is routed properly (tank pickup to carburetor nipple, pipe pressure nipple to tank pressure fitting.
First, you will need to preheat the engine by taking a hairdryer or heat gun and heating the top of the engines cooling head for about a minute or a little more. Heating the engine up relieves cylinder pinch; therefore the engine will be much easier to crank over.
Side note: Pinch will make your engine hard to turn over. This is why your engine always seems to get stuck, the reason it happens is the cylinder is smaller at the top than it is at the bottom; therefore it’s harder to push the piston through at the top. The reason for pinch is compression, since nitro’s don’t have piston rings, we have to use pinch.
Now you just need to fill the fuel tank up with proper fuel and prime the engine.
Priming Techniques:
-Tank primer: Some fuel tanks are equipped with a built in tank primer; in this case, all you have to do is press down on the priming rod and watch the fuel go to the carburetor.
-Stinger priming: If your fuel tank is not equipped with a built in primer, then just put your finger over the pipe’s stinger (most people just call it the opening in the pipe) and then turn the engine over by means of pull start or whatever. This will push the fuel to the carburetor.
-Mouth priming: While it does sound discouraging, all you have to do is remove the fuel tubing from the exhaust pipe pressure fitting and blow into it (remember not to suck in or you will be drinking hazardous fuel), this will cause the fuel to be forced through the tubing and to the carburetor.
When priming an engine, there is no need to shove excess fuel into it in hopes of it starting easier (actually the opposite of what you think), all that is required is to bring the fuel to the carburetor, no more, once you see it just barely go in then stop and that is enough. If you get good enough at priming, then your engine can start easily on the 1st pull.
Once you have these steps completed, turn on the radio transmitter (TX) and the receiver (RX) and do a quick run through, testing brakes, linkages, carburetor opening, and steering. Now place your fully charged glow igniter on the glow plug and crank the engine by pull start, roto-start, or whatever is used.
05-30-2007 | 03:25 PM
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From: Blackwell, OK
RE: RS4 3 EVO Nitro Start Problem
Finally got it run. I had the heatsink header remove and other under the heatsink header to pour out the flooded.
After i got it start for break-in, When it start. the wheel start climb up the speed and i couldn't let it lay down on the ground because it will run away. Is it suppose to be like this when break-in? Should i adjust the idler or what?
Also, There was some little fuel spitting out the exhaust, I also pick up the chassis and try to pour out some fuel out of exhaust, there was some goo goo fuel coming out in brown and blackish color. Is this normal?
After i got it start for break-in, When it start. the wheel start climb up the speed and i couldn't let it lay down on the ground because it will run away. Is it suppose to be like this when break-in? Should i adjust the idler or what?
Also, There was some little fuel spitting out the exhaust, I also pick up the chassis and try to pour out some fuel out of exhaust, there was some goo goo fuel coming out in brown and blackish color. Is this normal?
05-30-2007 | 03:57 PM
#5
RE: RS4 3 EVO Nitro Start Problem
next time just unscrew the glow plug to clean it out, also, when breaking in, you need to tune the engine, with a properly tuned engine, it will sit and idle without a problem and run at a decent temp, fuel coming out of the pipe means that its running rich meaning you havent tuned it, the idle should be open about 1mm or so
