well the car still shuts off when its running and i hit the brakes. i bought a new receiving unit, and servos. nothing fixed it. well now its starts up and takes off like a bat out of hell. i dont know *** to do. plz any help. o and i have the rs4 2 model of the hpi but upgrded to the .15. thanx in advance

joey

You need to inspect your clutch. It is staying engaged. It could be clutch shoes, clutch spring, external debris, or bearings.

can i just buy a 2 speed tranny. doesnt that have a new clutch in it

what exactly am i looking for on the clutch that makes it bad

The clutch is actually in the drivetrain. It's 2 shoes that spin out from the driveshaft and engage on the clutch bell (it's a hollow cylinder that they catch the inside of). If it's worn out, the clutch shoes are melted and they're stuck to the inside of the cylinder or something along those lines. You'll have to take the engine out, and just remove the drivetrain up to the engine, it's about 3/4 of the way down the line to the engine.

The 2 speed tranny is seperate from the clutch.

You need to look at the clutch shoes for excessive wear. If they are highly worn, they should be replaced. If the clutch spring(s) is/are broke, they need to be replaced. If the bearings (in the clutch bell) don't spin freely, they need to be replaced. If the inside of the clutchbell has clutch material inside it, it needs to be cleaned and the clutch shoes need to be replaced.

Most 2 speed upgrade kits come with all the clutch components.

Hope this helps.

Wait, this sounds more like carb / throtle setting more than anything else... Don't jump on the clutch bandwagon quite yet...

Make sur eyour servos are setting the carb back to 0 when the reciever is in the neutral position. And make sure your idle adjust screw is properly set.

I agree with celly!!!!!!!!!!!

i have tried the throttle. i really want to know the stock settings for it. but i dont know then. i have tried adjusting it but have not accomplisehed much. then after she does run it will still shut off then its a pain in the ***** to get started again

set the carb setting back to factory settings, 2-3 turns out onthe high speed 1-2 turns out on the low speed and 1mm opening on the carb barrel.

You need to tigten your idle set screw so when you hit the brakes it doesnt move. You may also need to adjust the servo arm so that the idle isnt high. If that doesnt help you need to inspect the clutch. buying new radio gear will not fix the problem.

ya i replaced the clutch spring, is it suppost to spin freely with a new spring in it. i will try what u guys said and see. thx for all the help

I had this exact problem on my savage after changin to an aluminum 3 shoe clutch system.

One of the springs slipped and allowed one of the aluminum clutch shoes to contact the top of the clutch bell.

Was obvious when the clutch bell wouldn't spin freely anymore with the motor off.

Other wise, sounds like your low speed needle is a little too lean.

DrkIrny,

What was the condition of the clutch spring you replaced?
Did the clutch bell spin freely before you changed the spring?
Does it spin freely since you changed it?

clutch spring was toast. dont really know if the clutch bell spun freely or not. now it spins, and the flywheel is constintly spinning regardless.

So, are you saying your problem is fixed??

When I changed to a 3 clutch shoe design on my Savage, I turned the little nut that holds flywheel to shaft around. Now the groove sits closer to clutch bell end, and the clutch shoe springs fit into this groove and don't allow the new shoes to walk toward the clutch bell.

Like I said before, the clutch springs would slip, the shoes would walk up towards the clutch bell and grab the top, not the sides. It would then lock the clutch bell to the flywheel.

I noticed this the first time when the brakes appeared to not be working right. I then realized I had to stop not only the wheels, but the force of the engine as well.

Ended up melting the brake and the plastic hex it sits on.

Again, awaiting parts from Tower Hobbies.