ehroof

Hey Bryan, glad you got it coming to life now, most likely the bubbles in the fuel line are from the fuel lines, also make sure you push the fuel cap down on the tank, they have a really good seal. The pipe is in 2 pieces so make sure the screws are tight, someone said they tool it apart and put some sealer on it and put it back together, i just put the tuned pipe from himoto on it, i think it makes a pretty noticeable difference in low end power.

NovaRX

Just got the MXB3, very pleased with performance. I have a few questions though. What kind of temps should I be

getting with the buggy? I know it says in the manual to stay under 266 F , but mine goes over that easily. Is that a

problem? Also, is it okay to run more than 20% nitro? If I have to richen it, would that defeat the purpose of

running a higher nitro?

ehroof

If your really beating on it, 280 is fine, i would try to stay lower than that. I run 30% and thats fine to but you have to richen the mix to keep the tepms down, the richening of the mix on higher nitro fuels does not effect the increase of the nitro percentage that badly, you will see a performance gain.

NovaRX

Ah, okay. I was getting high temps after following break in procedure and even after richening it a bit, but i was running it pretty hard.

My steering is a bit off. It doesnt return to neutral when i steer right, just sticks. Any idea?
I had swapped servos for one with metal gears because the other stripped gears.

Swamp3r

If you haven't adjusted your steering trim on your radio do so. If that isn't it then set your steering trim to center(radio on and reciever), take off the servo saver center your wheels then put the servo saver back on you still might have to adjust the steering trim though.

NovaRX

Alright. This buggy has been giving me nothing but trouble and now I seriously regret buying it. If it not for all the time and money i already sank into it..
I'm having trouble with the metal pin and Fr/Rr C-Carrier/ Steering hub. If i can get the pin in, it does not come out. I bought the steel C- Carrier thinking the problem would be solved, but its the same. I tried hammering the pin out. Not a good idea as i just bent the steel making it unusable. Am I missing something? Is there some kind of trick to moving the pin? I've already destroyed several parts using brute force..

ehroof

there is a grub screw you need to remove to take the pin out.

NovaRX

I know theres one for the steel upgrade. I tried that. I didnt see one for the nylon though. Sometimes it takes a lot of force to push the pin in. I've tried using pliers to remove it, and hammering. It just gets stuck in there. I've also tried greasing it up. It seems as though once the pin gets in there, it aint coming out.

ehroof

There is one in the plastic also, you have to take it out to remove it(the pin). You must be trying to squeeze it thru the other end thats too small. Check out the exploded view on the user manual, you will see it there. Same place as the metal ones.

NovaRX

I never saw the grub screw but I had some new spare parts and they worked fine. Now I'm trying to fix my next problem. There are a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line, which I'm assuming is why the buggy keeps cutting off. It also sometimes make a hissing noise after running. The exhaust manifold was loose at one point, but i tightened it back up. Is it supposed to be sealed with something?

ehroof

There is an exhaust gasket that goes between the manifold and the engine, it may have fallen apart if it was loose and soaked with fuel, you can either make you own out of gasket material or any side engine from .12-.18 gasket will work. Check your fuel line to be sure there is no hole in it, if there is a hole, it will suck in air. The hissing could be from the engine running hot, if the header was loose it may have been running lean.

NovaRX

Okay, I'll look into that. Thanks for your help.

Redharris

Nova.....
Keep your eyes Peeled on that Exhaust Gasket.....
The Exhaust header screws vibrating loose is a problem that happens on ALL Nitros with the Side Exit exhaust.....
Use Plenty of blue loctite on the header screws, and you Still gotta check 'em every couple times you Gas Up....

Also...watch out for the Lower shock mount screws. They are subjected to tremendous vibration/stress and can work their way loose very quickly... Keep 'em Tight.....

Redharris

O.K....
Those of you who know me....know I've been itchin' to get one of these Buggies for a long time. Well here it is....
Thats my MXT-2S in there too, for scale.

Now I'll be able to Post some useful Stuff n Contribute to this Thread.
I gotta say,,,I'm Liking the way this buggy is built. Looks Cool too!

NovaRX

I checked it and yeah, it was missing the gasket, so I used one from another car. Where can I get gasket material? I dont remember seeing them in any of my local hobby shops..
Anyway, I ran it for a few minutes and it eventually got jerky and just cut off like it always does. I saw fuel bubbling from the carburetor, mostly around the idle speed needle. The air bubble in my fuel line got larger. Just drained out. What should I do with that?

kuppler

gasket material you can get at ur local auto parts store.
thats what i use... and it works good.....

ehroof

sounds like you may have a hole in the fuel line, i would replace that first.

NovaRX

I replaced the fuel lines and fuel tank but I still had the same problem. The car runs for a few minutes and then it starts to hesitate, the engine kind of whines, and i have to keep the the throttle up to keep it running. Eventually it just cuts off. After that, its impossible to start the buggy back up, only after its been sitting for a while, i guess to cool down. Also, smoke rises from the top of the engine head, not sure if thats normal or not. Eventually all the fuel in my lines goes back into the tank, and i can hear a hissing noise, like pressure is escaping from some where.
I didnt get to run it after that because my pull start broke and and i somehow overtightened the glow plug even though i didnt use much force.. tried replacing the head but the screws were stripped..not too successful with drilling them out either. Any ideas on where I should go from here?

Swamp3r

Why not try the engine replacement program. http://server.sohouniverse.net/~himo...cement_Program

NovaRX

Unfortunately with shipping added (to and from) it only comes out to about a $10 difference. But I was thinking about getting a new engine and starting over when I have the money. I guess its either that or no running buggy...

Swamp3r

It just sounds like it's running way too lean, richen it up abit more if that doesn't help then it might just be an air leak possibly at the carb

Redharris

Well....
I've got my Buggy all broken in now, and I m VERY happy with it.
Can you Guess what I did as soon as I GOT it broken in?

That's Right! ......
I broke out my smaller jump to see how she Flies!
I would like to report that the Buggy flies straight and true...It is the most Balanced and Easiest of all my 1/10 cars to jump with......
After only a Couple Cartwheels (Learning Curve) I was landing sweetly, over and over again.

I finally got a Little TOO aggressive though, (Go Big or Go Home![sm=48_48.gif]) and stripped my Steering servo.[].
I was doing some Major Bad Landings when I shredded that servo, Lol...(My own Fault...)
Luckily, I have extra/upgrade servos lying around, and I'll be up n runnin tomorrow!

pede_187

Sweeeet!

NovaRX

i suspected it might be the carb but I wasnt sure how to fix that. Guess theres no point now since the cooling head is no good and i cant remove it.

I stripped my steering servo after crashing into a trashcan at low speed. Are these
[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=270273960609]servos[/link] any good?

amf66

Those are good servos but I would get the new upgraded version from Hobbycity. It's called the MG996R and you can get it here for only $11.95: [link]http://www.unitedhobbies.com/unitedhobbies/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6221[/link]. I think that you may have to get a new servo horn though, because I've heard the MegaP's use servos with 24 splines (not the same as Futaba or the MG996R). You may have to get a servo horn that works with HiTech servos.