Please give me some suggestions on tuning the chassis for my Hyper 7.

Are there any manufactures that make something like this for offroad 1/8 scale cars? I did find something from a company called Hudy but it seems that their products are more directed towards onroad cars.

How are many of you checking for proper caster/camber and toe in/out? I could probably make some jigs but I would rather buy a kit and save the time.

hudy does make a hudy board 4 offroad, it does toe in and out on the front and rear, camber, caster, rpm also makes camber gauges 4 about 10 bucks. if u get a chance bring it over 2 crystal park 4 friday nite racing this friday 5/9 and their will be a lot of ofna drivers and probably paul coleman will show up if the hyper 7 race in sweden is over with

Thanks for the post

Do you have any links to the race at Crystal Park? You may have sent one to me via e-mail but I have been so flipping busy trying to get this car put together.

Do you know where I could get the Hudy setup board. I searched my a55 off but most everthing I found was for 1/10 onroad. I did go to the official Hudy site but that seemed kinda vague too and/or I am just stupid. They did have a listing for a kit for 1/8 offroad but it said is was for Kyosho or Mugen so i wasn't sure if it would work for an Ofna. I should get off my lazy arse and probably e-mail them - eh?

at fist i thought u had the hyper pbs but i guess u have the pro which is like a kyosho. try ultimate 4 a hudy board u need the kyosho 1 the mugen is 4 pivot ball. i've used the hudy board 4 onroad on my vector but find it's not necessary 4 offroad mostly because the rear toe in is set with blocks, u can check it but u can't really adjust it without changing rear suspension plate. i'd worry more about shock length, piston size, 22 degree caster blocks, springs, ect. i don't have any links 2 the race but smitty changed the whole track layout and is having the first race this friday. up 4 grabs is $100 cash and there will be a lot of pro racers there 2 try and cash in on it

If you are looking for "tweak" then you need something like the MIP Tweak Station, which allows you to determine different wheel pressures from side to side. Its an excellent tool for checking the balance of your suspension and chassis.

However, I firmly believe that the HUDY set-up board is overkill, and cannot provide you with any information that you could not obtain and set for far cheaper. I almost bought one to fine-tune my old electric TC3, but then I got thinking about geometry, and haven't looked back.

No set-up board can do more than a person with 2 basic tools can do for themselves for less. Basically all you need is high school geometry (or even a Cliff Notes book on geometry) and a moderate caliper. In the course of my careers, I have used all manner of calipers, some very cheap, and some VERY expensive. For setting up an RC car, all you really need is a $20 analog caliper from someplace like Home Depot or Lowe's. As long as it can extend to about 6 inches (pretty standard) and has a dial that can read in individual milimeters or 1/64-inch, you are all set.

All you need to do is carefully measure the various parts of your suspension, and then adjust the turnbuckles accordingly to create whatever angles you want. Its very basic math, and takes very little time once you know all of the other angles and lengths, just pop off the turnbuckle, measure the length from the center of one cup to the center of the other, lengthen or shorten by whatever amount you need, measure again to be sure, and put it back on.

Presto, perfectly aligned suspension without spending a wad of cash on a set-up board. Besides, its also useful for measuring and accurately setting your shock lengths.

I am using a Callari set up jig for a 1/8th on road, and to be honest it serves the purpose. I agree the big hudy set up is over kill for a buggy. I run the front tires almost stright up and down as far as caster, and virtually no toe in the front, and a slightly towed in at the rear tires....it tracks staight, on or off throttle, and seems to handle really nice. You can get one of these jigs I have for 40-100 on Ebay. I got mine for 50$. Whats surprising is I thought by counting threads on the adjustments I would be close....wait until you put a true measure on it. Mine was close, but I was off by a couple degrees on the rear camber I wanted like 3 degrees negative on both sides, and a couple degrees of toe in, and I was three degrees negative camber and right on 2 degrees toe in, but the left side was off by a couple degrees on both measurements. It was pretty noticable after the angle was fixxed too, so adajustment does matter to some degree, but not as much as a on-road. I will take every advantage I can get!

nice setup todd, looks great 4 setting toe front and rear

i EYEBALL it i haven't got a setup board, nor do i have a suspension with such fine tolerances that i would even trust measurements to stay in true for very long. so here's what i do during practice lap sessions at the track.

i put the car right in front of my face and then focus on one tire. let's say i'm looking at the passenger's side tire from the front of the car. now what i want is to see maximal contact between tire and road when weight has shifted to that tire. so i push horizontally toward that tire until i get as much suspension travel as i think i'll see. then i look at how the tire has changed its contact patch. then i adjust. lather rinse repeat.

with fresh foams and a few laps worth of trying i've been able to do this and get even wear on a really twisty track.

one day i might graduate to something more sophisticated e.g. you might want to push toward the rear and to the side for rear tires to minimise chances of on-throttle oversteer accelerating out of a turn, etc. etc.

LOL Todd, I'm not suggesting anyone count threads, thats nowhere near accurate, but doing the math and measuring with a reasonably cheap caliper WILL give you PRECISE setup. It just takes a little more thought than a set-up board, and you can do it on any vehcile, you are not restriced by 1:10 or 1:8. Thats just my view on it, teaches you more about your car, and is a heck of a lot cheaper for exactly the same result.

i feel that offroad is somewhat harder just 2 keep your car on the track and off it's lid than onroad especially when trying 2 go fast. also track conditions vary more drastically than in onroad. they don't spray vht after every round or sweep or blow off the track, the vht usually last all day and once u spray all the dirt and dust will just get stuck 2 it. offroad requires u 2 read the track and anticipate track conditions as they occur. when they water the track and you're up next u may have 2 go 2 a more open tire so it doesn't get loaded up with mud. it's mostly driving skill, setup counts 2 but driving skill is probably 80 or 90 percent and alot of motor makes you're car much harder 2 drive