armymedic

Just a quick question, how do you know if you have your throttle/steering servo zeroed correctly? I cleaned my RS4 3 and dont know if I have them correctly adjusted.

armymedic

Sorry if this is an annoying question.

Gex_61

1. Change all of the settings on your radio so that the steering is at zero.

2. Put the servo in where it is going to be mounted. Don't fully mount it unless it's easy to get to.

3. With your radio and electronics turned on (that way your servo is at zero), put the servo arm on; all of your steering should be assembled and attached to the servo arm already (make sure your turnbuckles for camber and toe are adjusted evenly on both sides). Make sure the tires are as close as possible to center when you screw the arm into place.

4. Then you will need to actually mount the servo, if you haven't already. With your radio, you can now fine tune and center the steering.

The throttle servo is done the same way. Make sure the servo is at zero, and put it as close to neutral as you can get it. Then fine tune. Let me know if you need more help

armymedic

Cool, thank you so much man, I hate being new and having to bug people. Do I do the same thing with the throttle as well?

Gex_61

Sorry, I edited my post a few times. Make sure you read it again.

DaveG55

At least you're thinking about it. Lots of people just slap servos in and put everything togeather and then wonder why steering/throttle/brakes are off.

olkleaf

don't be afraid to ask questions.. every one was new to the hobby once

armymedic

so the throttle is set to the middle on the radio, and the steering too right?

olkleaf

right ... GEX_61 explained it perfectly there really isn't a trick to it .. good luck post a pic of your car ... people to some crazy things with their rs4's

armymedic

Mine is stock, I dont even know what to do to it LOL! How much tubing should you have going from the bottom of the fuel tank to the inlet needle? I seem to have a problem with wrapping the tube around the sproket at the bottom of the car!

armymedic

Mine is stock, I dont even know what to do to it LOL! How much tubing should you have going from the bottom of the fuel tank to the inlet needle? I seem to have a problem with wrapping the tube around the sproket at the bottom of the car!

SAVAGEJIM

For the fuel line and pressure line, do your best to keep them away form moving parts and gears, lest they get sucked in while running, shredded, and foul you shafts, etc. Use zip-ties to secure them toer parts of the RC (like the grab bar, body posts, etc.) so that they cannot accidently get pulled into the gearing.

Check out this pic on how this guy squared his lines away on his RC
http://www.hobby101.com/HPI%20Nitro%20Drift%20007.jpg

Just curious, are you in the service still? 68 Whiskey I assume (Unless the Army has chaneged how their MOS's are designated or I havent remembered the MOS designation for a combat medic).

SAVAGEJIM

I forgot, you have a bottom-line tank, the one I posted is a top-line tank.

Here is how another secured his lines on his RC

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...s4-us54165.jpg

zxknight

what is that stuff, i want some.

SAVAGEJIM

Yeah, if I had an RS4, those upgrades are very nice and I too would eventually buy them to upgrade it. Another thing I would upgrade is the engine. Side exhaust is passe and rear exhaust has so much more power potential.

The problem I can foresee on the RS4 is that the rear of the engine is so close to the back wheel; the pipe header might hit it. [:@]

olkleaf

check out the nitro onroad forum.... you can see what some of those guys with rs4's are doing

armymedic

Hi yes sir, Iam in the Army, 68 w, good ole Ft. Sam Houston, that was some intense training! Out in colorado now!
Does the Nitro star 15 fe motor that is stock in this car have the 2 needle setting or do I just have to worry about one needle for tuning?

SAVAGEJIM

The .15ci FE has two needles, one that you can turn with your hand, and another have to use a small regular screwdriver to tune, and that one is on the side of the carb (on the part that rotates the cabe valve). I know the FE carb (PN 1634) is a two needle carb. But there are some older FEs that do not have the low needle.

The main needle of course is the long stem you can turn in and out with your hand (see this link)
http://www.hpiracing.com/optionparts/stat-15fe.htm

This is the newer FE carb (PN 1634) with low speed needle on the rotating valve
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?partNo=1634&lang=en

armymedic

Were you in the Army? Sorry I got side tracked lol! My carb dont look like either of those two. Its so weird, I wonder if the guy I bought it from changed out the carb? Is that possible?

armymedic

Heres a picture[img][/img][img][/img]

armymedic

Do you know what the factory settings should be? I feel like such a dork!

SAVAGEJIM

Yeah, I was in armor, 19K. Ft Knox Ky!

For the needle setting, I unfortunately do not know. I think for the HSN (High speed needle, the one on the brass shaft that sticks up, 2.5 turns open from fully closed? I am not sure.) For the LSN (low speed needle) I do not have a clue at all.

For your carb, I personnally never seen that carb for the FE. And the side exhaust manifold does not even look like an HPI manifold. So that engine might be totally different (they installed a totally different engine instead of the FE.)