I got a MTR3 truggy with a SH .18 engine. I got just one run out of it and after many many attempts to get it to working again I decided to replace the engine.

I replaced it with a new SH .18 and initially it started off pretty ok. After the break in of 1-2 runs. it started to die out just about anytime. I never got a tank full run out of it. Now the engine has totally quit even starting. Peculiar thing is if try to start it after 1-2 days it starts and runs for 5-10 seconds and then does out. it will not start again.

I have ofcourse replaced the plug,cleaned the carb blown air thru the holes but to no avail. I would appreciate anyone able to get this thing running and running reliably for me

Thanks
SR

Check your needle settings first off, then look for an air leak. SH motors are very good they don't die that fast sorry to tell you that but you are missing or doing something wrong. Edit: keep in mind weather has alot to do with your needles

what are the standard settings on the needles ?

this will get you running....tune from there...

And if you are in a Hot Dry Climate ,,,,like Southern California, you always have to go about a Half turn Leaner that the Factory Settings to even Get the engine Started for Break in.....

That has been Mine and Kupplers experience with ALL our engines.....

Lets Start from the Beginning,,,,shall we?

What Fuel are you using? It should be 20% nitro (no LESS than that)....It also needs to be CAR fuel,,,,not airplane, helicopter, etc.

What Glow Plug are you using? It needs to be a HOT plug (O.S.A3) or at Least a Medium Hot plug such as Mc Coy 59 (MC59).

Your Factory Settings will be listed in your Manual. I suggest you read it before proceeding further. Depending on you Climate (temperature and humidity) you may need to make small adjustments to your LSN and HSN to get it started and Running for more than a few Moments....

You should also have a Digital Temperature Gauge for the Break in Process, so you can be CERTAIN that you are running at the correct Temperature for Break In....

Also,,,you need to decide on a Break In Procedure (there are a couple different choices here), you cant just Start the car and Immediately Drive it as like it is ALREADY broken in. It is VERY easy to RUIN a new Engine if Break In is not done Properly.....

We have threads here to help with Break In. You should READ them....It will be Easier for US to help YOU if you are at least SOMEWHAT familiar with the terms we are going to use to Help you out.....

I think the first motor he had was probably fine and I think the one he has now is fine. I will bet it's a tuning or airleak problem. So sr88
I would do exactly what Randy showed you(Firebird) and listen to Rich(Redharris) him and Adam made some really good videos they will help you tons the only way you could have destroyed 2 motors that fast is running way too lean and not breaking them in right I have 8 sh motors and alot of them have had more than 2 gallons through them. They are a very good motor.Edit: Are you using airfilter oil too? Judging where your from guessing you run in the sand abit, I hope you get things figured out we are here to help ya.

I agree, definately sounds like a tuning issue. Its a little bit of a learing curve but you will get the hang of it.

eddie and rod imma have to disagree bros sorry..... From what i gather from the post he not doing a full or proper break in .... he said after "the break in of 1-2 runs it started to die out" then sayes after 1-2 days itll start fine then runs 5-10 secs
sound to me it might be that hes over heated the piston and sleeve and lost his pinch... thats what happend with mine anyway

now sr i love my sh 18 i have one in my taipan and 1 in my viper

Ya thats what I said in my last post he either didn't break them in right or ran too lean

Anyone who loves these SH 18s can buy them from for $35 + shipping each or truggy at $100 as is. Hardly run and you can still do the break in ... in any manner you prefer !

I would just say this HIMOTO SUCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!! Its not just the truggy, I have also another 1/8 Himoto truck with .21 engine and another NIB viper(which has the brake nob that sets in the chassis to push the brake pads already broken even before its even taken out !!

Without going into specifics I had purchased 3 cars and ALL 3 are USELESS as described. One still NIB in the box(VIPER). The money I would spend to return it to the manufacturer is not worth the refund (which btw I know for sure they will not refund having met them in person)

Thanks for all the help but I tried the settings as described they just don't keep the engine running I am just chucking HIMOTO out.

if you read what he posted its odvious he did not break in his engine..."after 1-2 break in runs" takes more then 1-2 break in runs to properly break in an engine...the thing that made it odvious he didnt break it in is "I never got a full tank run out of it"..
ok first off I'm not trying to be a smart*****...hell I smoked my first nitro engine, it happens...so give us some info on exactly what you did from the time you took it outta the box for the first time so we can help ya out....I cant guarantee it but I'm pretty sure you prolly smoked it...just wanna help ya not do it again

Last time I read manual for my Himoto's, it lists running through 5 tanks of fuel before the break-in process is complete, not 2.
Usually if any parts are broken before they are taken out of the box, I contact the dealer and get a replacement part. Simple as that.
Sounds like nitro is not the sport for you. SH engines are the easiest engines to run and maintain.

ok here is the deal...break in is a one shot deal....once they have been ran you cannot redo it...I dont care if the only had 2 tanks though them, if the werent properly ran they cannot be re-broken in...

as far as the other rc's being broke still new in the box you do not have to ship the entire truck back..if you was told you had to I'd sure like to know were you bought them cause I seriously doubt they would be able to sell himotos again...taking pictures of them would suffice....now I will say if the rc looks like it has been ran in the pics and you have broken parts you most likely WILL NOT get replacement parts for free.. cause usually the rc has been ran and crashed...
if you want to say the heck with himoto thats your choice...but this I promise you....no matter what rc you buy if not doing a proper break in and having it tuned is going to give you trouble...I have never seen somone that recived a broken himoto be it shipping or what not that supplied pics of a new never ran rc not get taking care of...

if your looking for something you can just take out of the box and run hard nitro is not for ya..I would stick with an electric....

Calling a himoto garbage or what ever you said tells me you have no clue what your doing. I own 6 of them 7th one on it's way. I also own 8 other rc's I dunno what your doing but what ever it is your doing it's wrong. All of my himoto's run fast and last longer than my losi and schumaucher rc's. Calling Himoto uselessis the stupidest thing you've said in this post. Maybe take up knitting or flower arranging.

LOL!

So.....Buy a Traxxas then,,,,and when you Blow THAT engine,,,,you can go Whine in THEIR forum......

We are trying to give you Constructive Criticism here and all you Do is TRASH our Brand Name!
You've had THREE RC vehicles that you cannot seem to Figure out how to Operate Successfully.....
I see a Pattern Here that Suggests you don't know what you are Doing! [sm=drowning.gif]

Oh,,,,By the Way......
Would you Please send me a Link for those $35 SH engines?
I Would like to Buy a BUNCH of them!

Me too! As long as he has never ran them(or blown them). I don't think this guy has the qualifications to be a dealer for Himoto. Their(Himoto) standards are too high for him.

I would like to know about those $35 sh engines too.

i did like to see a link to them also

I'm pretty sure he is refering to the sh engines he smoked....

lol... I am doing Traxxas and very happy with that ...They are twice the price but they work as they should.
Anyone who wants the 1st engine from the truggy at $35 can PM me

I wouldn't buy anything you've run I'd need a new piston and sleave if I did. And I'm sure nobody here will buy it either. B4 you start bashing a motor or rc maybe you should learn how to operate them and maintain them and break them in properly. Funny how myself and others in here have had no problems......think about that for a few minutes

LMAO......You wont be so Happy when you Blow the Engine and find that a Traxxas engine costs 3X more $$................

Hopefully,,,,you have learned SOMETHING from killing your 3 Previous Engines and will get some Local Assistance to help with your New RC.

Good Luck..........

looks like Himoto support(s) is really desperate here to keep their sub standard products in good light. The only thing you can think of is bring down the member with a problem to sound him as incompetent and ignorant rather than admit they have lousy products. I came here to get support and all the support gives is jeers and accusations.

Bravo !!!!! Keep it up ... its just inline with your bad products.... bad attitude !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !And you btw mister wouldn't know I have seen your head office and your factories where you make your products ....

I don't care now as I am off the Himoto ****. I lost good money in it but I know for sure whether its himoto or another cheapie product they dont have quality worth crap.

Good Luck !