SPLUTTERY DF-02 CAR
#1
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
<span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;"><span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);">I've</span></span></span> <span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;"><span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);"><span style="font-size: larger;">just upgraded my gravel hound and fit a nosram magnum reverse 10 turn esc and 12 x 2 turn LRP gt-3 turbo engine and now all of a sudden when the cars a little distance away it seems to stutter</span></span></span> <span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);"><span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;">could this be anything to do with that or is my receiver in need of replacing?</span></span></span>
#2
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi m8 tell me youve changed those tamiya connectors over right? 
As for the interference could be a lot of things try moving your reciever away from the esc/motor,have you ran it in different places and it doing the same.
Im guessing your running high cap connectors really to be running that low a turn of a motor if your not running deans,trx,powerpole etc then
1) those wires but be getting really hot!!!
2) your connectors could be causing the problem
The tamiya wires wont deal well with that amount of amp pull and will heat up and damage something soon[
]

As for the interference could be a lot of things try moving your reciever away from the esc/motor,have you ran it in different places and it doing the same.
Im guessing your running high cap connectors really to be running that low a turn of a motor if your not running deans,trx,powerpole etc then
1) those wires but be getting really hot!!!
2) your connectors could be causing the problem
The tamiya wires wont deal well with that amount of amp pull and will heat up and damage something soon[
]
#3
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
<span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;">wires are connected correct .
i've taken a pic so you can advise on alterations</span></span></span>
<span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);"><span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;">
and thanks for replying so quick</span></span></span>
i've taken a pic so you can advise on alterations</span></span></span>
<span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);"><span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;">
and thanks for replying so quick</span></span></span>

#4
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you need to upgrade your connectors for both the motor and the battery.
it also looks like you have no capacitors on your motor which can cause excess feedback.
also don't wrap the wires together like you have on your reciever, that creates feedback/interference.
it also looks like you have no capacitors on your motor which can cause excess feedback.
also don't wrap the wires together like you have on your reciever, that creates feedback/interference.
#5
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From: Des Moines,
IA
that nosram has a built in fail safe that will cut it out if it thinks the signal is bad, try cleaning up the wiring and see if that helps
#6
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
<span style="color: rgb(128, 0, 128);"><span style="font-size: larger;"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS;">Tried cleaning but still the same 
It's strange because it works fine till it get to about 40 yards away then it starts spluttering </span></span></span>

It's strange because it works fine till it get to about 40 yards away then it starts spluttering </span></span></span>
#7
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From: Edmonton,
AB, CANADA
The servo wires can be bound like that but get the receiver antenna out of there. You're probably picking up interference from all the electronics. It's pretty cramped but try to keep the receiver wire away from all other wires, motor and esc as much as possible.
#8
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
Like druss says 
Also you should change that tamiya battery connector to high power connectors like deans,trx if your soldering not the best just pop into a model shop they should sort it for a few quid
Surprised those motor to esc wires dont heat up i know when i had a gt3 motor it heated mine up alot even on nicad packs [
]
Looks a good setup though bet it flys!! love those gt motors i had a 13x4 it had tons of torque
[quoteIt's strange because it works fine till it get to about 40 yards away then it starts spluttering ][/quote]
Is it doing that striaght away on a fresh battery cos im sure the wires are struggling to cope with the amp draw.

Also you should change that tamiya battery connector to high power connectors like deans,trx if your soldering not the best just pop into a model shop they should sort it for a few quid

Surprised those motor to esc wires dont heat up i know when i had a gt3 motor it heated mine up alot even on nicad packs [
]Looks a good setup though bet it flys!! love those gt motors i had a 13x4 it had tons of torque

[quoteIt's strange because it works fine till it get to about 40 yards away then it starts spluttering ][/quote]
Is it doing that striaght away on a fresh battery cos im sure the wires are struggling to cope with the amp draw.
#9
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
[quote Surprised those motor to esc wires dont heat up i know when i had a gt3 motor it heated mine up alot even on nicad packs quote]
lets just say mine heat up as well
Only took the thing out for 5 mins to see if re-arranging componants would sort out the interfearence which to be fare did help (getting antena out the way) still done it tho but went a little further than before
Then all went t!ts up .......as you can see from picture ....she just all of a sudden stoped in the road and burst into smoke servo wires fried , esc wires fried and engine wires fried , just missing some bacon and eggs
I'm learning a hard and expensive lesson lol
lets just say mine heat up as well

Only took the thing out for 5 mins to see if re-arranging componants would sort out the interfearence which to be fare did help (getting antena out the way) still done it tho but went a little further than before

Then all went t!ts up .......as you can see from picture ....she just all of a sudden stoped in the road and burst into smoke servo wires fried , esc wires fried and engine wires fried , just missing some bacon and eggs

I'm learning a hard and expensive lesson lol

#10
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
Is it doing that striaght away on a fresh battery cos im sure the wires are struggling to cope with the amp draw.
#11
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
OH M8 [X(]
I just managed to get mine sorted before my esc died [
]
This is the one i use but in blue(newer version) paid £45 its a no limit with 5-10cell support
[link=http://www.rccarsandtrucks.co.uk/1631_1_22068.html]Ripmax quake esc[/link]
I soldered the esc leads direct to the motor with thick gauge wire and changed my battery to esc connectors for TRXs I ran down to a 8turn motor with very little heat on a 9.6v pack its a small size esc too so you can move it outround that tight chassis to help stop interference.
Or just spend a lttle more and grab one of those EZERUN bl system from ebay for around £70 that way your not spending loads on replacing brushes every 10 or so runs,i went through a load on that 8t every 5-7 runs i noticed the performance drop even on 7cells[
]
I just managed to get mine sorted before my esc died [
]This is the one i use but in blue(newer version) paid £45 its a no limit with 5-10cell support
[link=http://www.rccarsandtrucks.co.uk/1631_1_22068.html]Ripmax quake esc[/link]
I soldered the esc leads direct to the motor with thick gauge wire and changed my battery to esc connectors for TRXs I ran down to a 8turn motor with very little heat on a 9.6v pack its a small size esc too so you can move it outround that tight chassis to help stop interference.
Or just spend a lttle more and grab one of those EZERUN bl system from ebay for around £70 that way your not spending loads on replacing brushes every 10 or so runs,i went through a load on that 8t every 5-7 runs i noticed the performance drop even on 7cells[
]
#12
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From: Edmonton,
AB, CANADA
That's too bad... One of the things that electric guys forget is that a temp gun is your friend as much as it is for nitro guys. Especially when you are trying anything new, check the temps.
#13
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
I can understand why the battery and engine leads melted but why did the rest?
was it because they were close by and got caught in the mix?
I've done a bodge job and taped up the esc to see if she'd still work and she does
was it because they were close by and got caught in the mix?
I've done a bodge job and taped up the esc to see if she'd still work and she does

#14
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From: Edmonton,
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I would really suggest that you replace the servo wire, it's pretty cheap and easy to do. Also, you have got to replace that molex/tamiya battery connector, those will heat up and melt with good batteries and high draw motors.
Actually, once I've got the configuration of the car all done and have driving it a few times to make sure it all works well, I shorten as many of the wires as I can to make it look cleaner.
Actually, once I've got the configuration of the car all done and have driving it a few times to make sure it all works well, I shorten as many of the wires as I can to make it look cleaner.
#15
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: Druss
I would really suggest that you replace the servo wire, it's pretty cheap and easy to do. Also, you have got to replace that molex/tamiya battery connector, those will heat up and melt with good batteries and high draw motors.
Actually, once I've got the configuration of the car all done and have driving it a few times to make sure it all works well, I shorten as many of the wires as I can to make it look cleaner.
I would really suggest that you replace the servo wire, it's pretty cheap and easy to do. Also, you have got to replace that molex/tamiya battery connector, those will heat up and melt with good batteries and high draw motors.
Actually, once I've got the configuration of the car all done and have driving it a few times to make sure it all works well, I shorten as many of the wires as I can to make it look cleaner.
what about getting a thicker gauge wire just on the motor would that help because that's about the only thing i think i could do?
I'd love to be able to replace and do some of the things you guys have mentioned but tampering with connectors and soldering are things i'd be no good at , wish it would just work nice straight from the box lol
#16
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From: by the lake,
ON, CANADA
that reciver is junk, AM?, if so thats your problem back in the day i dropped a 19t turn into my stock evader and the radio wouldnt go 30ft before it would glitch
#17
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: Redvanmafia
that reciver is junk, AM?, if so thats your problem back in the day i dropped a 19t turn into my stock evader and the radio wouldnt go 30ft before it would glitch
that reciver is junk, AM?, if so thats your problem back in the day i dropped a 19t turn into my stock evader and the radio wouldnt go 30ft before it would glitch
#18
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From: Bristol, UNITED KINGDOM
Nothing wrong with AM m8 i run both my cars on it never had a problem in 3 years 
Id say it burnt up cos those wires got hot and touched.melted the wires [
]

Id say it burnt up cos those wires got hot and touched.melted the wires [
]
#19
you need to get rid of that Tamiya connector, if your not confident with soldering your LHS should do it for a few bucks.
also, what battery are you using? a low quality pack or a pack with little charge in it will cause stuttering.
also, what battery are you using? a low quality pack or a pack with little charge in it will cause stuttering.
#20
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
i've replaced the wire for a thicker gauge and ive taken it out and used the whole battery up whilst regually checking and the wire doesn't get hot now so hopefully no more fire 
i'm still getting the splutter , but am going to try another receiver that i can get hold of
my battery is a 3600 and not that old really so can't see it being that.

i'm still getting the splutter , but am going to try another receiver that i can get hold of
my battery is a 3600 and not that old really so can't see it being that.
#22
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
Right it's definatly not the receiver...tried another and exactly the same so what i thought next was changing the motor to an old 15 turn just to see if it is the connections not being able to handle to pull off that 12 x 2 like you guys said and i can confirm it's 100% that because the 15 turn went all the way without any splutter 
Thanks to all that have helped and those who said connections well done
now i'm stuck as this is the part i dred the most because it's out of my capabilities i think
included a pic to see if you guys think this is tidy enough as well?
excuse the insulation tape around the esc lol she got a tad burnt last time round and needed dotoring lol

Thanks to all that have helped and those who said connections well done
now i'm stuck as this is the part i dred the most because it's out of my capabilities i think

included a pic to see if you guys think this is tidy enough as well?
excuse the insulation tape around the esc lol she got a tad burnt last time round and needed dotoring lol
#24
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From: Oxford, UNITED KINGDOM
Just been flicking through internet for Deans connectors and just want to check with you guys that these will help solve my problem?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#25
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From: Thousand Oaks,
CA
Yep Deans 100% Tamiya plugs are like the brick phones, they work but are horid to begin with. Do remember the lower T of the motor, the higher power it draws....



