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Yea, its under the airfilter, it's just a normal o ring. You can use rubber band, but the tend to go bad from time to time.

Here is a old picture of my car with a TRS, it wasn't as good as the O ring...

http://www.teamakina.com/images/GALLERY/30.jpg

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I use both return spring and fail safe for the reason discussed here. I believe it is overkill.

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There's no such thing as overkill when it comes to stopping runaways. In certain situations even the spring and a fail safe won't help. If your Rx battery pack flies out of the vehicle while it's at full throttle, you're outa luck. In this case, the fail safe can't close the throttle without battery power, and the spring can't override the servo.

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Grampi, if you lose batteries to your receiver the trs will override the servo. If that aint the case then how come you can move the servo with the push of a finger when the power is off? The servo does not lock up in any position if you lose power at the receiver.

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For the zillionth time in this forum, the spring will not override the servo. The spring's ONLY fuction, and I mean ONLY, is to return the throttle back to idle in the event there is mechanical disconnect between the servo and the carbs throttle arm. When the servo looses it's signal, it doesn't just go limp. I stays in the position it was in when it lost its signal, and it takes just as much force to move it in this state as it does when it's receiving a signal. If your spring is strong enough to override the servo, it's too strong and is going to wear out your servo prematurely.

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well, if you read the posts, we are talking about loss of power, NOT signal. there is a difference between the two. loss of signal will still provide constant holding power to the servo. loss of power means there is no power to hold the servo and the spring will work. It works in mine and all the other cars i've seen. And like i posted before, if it is on the linkage, then the servo still has to pull on it all the time.

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Even if your spring is overriding the servo when no power is applied, it's too strong. The only thing that's supposed to override the servo is the fail safe. If the spring is connected to your servo arm, it's connected to the wrong spot. It should be connected to the arm on your carb.

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Ya i agree If your spring is strong enough to pull the servo back then wouldnt your battery drain faster if its having to pull the spring to open the throttle? would also think that the stress put on the servo would wear it out faster.

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well, for one thing, not everyone uses a slide carb on their engines. Also, why would losi design their's to go on the servo horn. Plus, if you are using a servo that can't handle the power of that little spring, you have other problems to worry about (like brakes). I use a digital steering servo and a regular throttle servo and I can race for over 4-5 straight hours on one battery pack.

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Battery drainage? Its varies on how good your rx pack is. It's something that is unnoticable, and I get more than 5 hours out of my battery with the TRS on. I haven't strip or damage a standard throttle servo that I have been using for 2 years. It will pull the servo back to normal position if no power is going to it.

grampi: Did you even bother to think and read about what was posted? Have you even try? If you did and the spring isn't pulling the arm back to normal position when no power is added, then your spring is too WEAK. Why have a spring on there if it's not able to pull the servo when no power is apply? During sign lost, your fail safe is there for that reason, for power lose, your trs is there for that reason.

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As I have said a million times before, the purpose of the spring is not to pull the servo back to idle. Let me ask you this. If your throttle lingage becomes disconnected from you carb arm, what good is the spring going to do if it's attached to the servo arm? It isn't going to do a thing. Now if it's attached to the carb arm and the servo arm comes off, breaks, or any other part of the throttle linkage becomes disconnected, the spring will do its job by pulling the throttle back to idle. The only proper way to move the servo to the idle position is with the use of a fail safe. Yes, the servo is always going to have to overcome the spring, but the spring should never be strong enough to override the servo.

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well, my whole carb would have to explode for the linkage to come apart from the servo. I haven't stripped a servo or lost battery power due to excessive drainage. I have had my servo lose power (connection broke free) and my car went to idle (not brakes) and saved me from alot of money.
I've seen a couple of 1/8 buggies with a failsafe and a weak trs and they spent weeks waiting for parts after an incident.

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I know that others have already mentioned this but TRS should override the servo in the event of a power loss. If it is not doing this, then the spring is too weak.

According to others, for rotary carb, attach the trs to the carb linkage; slide - attach it to the servo arms.

Akina - nice ride.

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Did you even read my post? If the spring is connected to the servo arm, it isn't going to do a damn thing if your throttle likage becomes disconnected, which can definitely happen.

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Mine is connected to the carb itself.

From what I read (thus according to others), see quoted text above.

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80% of the time of failare, your battery or wire will somehow be damage, weather the wire get caught up in the gears, or it drag on the ground, bad connection, bad soldering job, what ever, most likely it's a 10% chance the servo arm will break off. I understand it popping off, I have seen a lot of drivers forget to screw on their servo arm, but thats driver error. Get aluminum servo arm or something, and breakage won't be a problem, but the spring not returning the the servo back to idle with out any power going to it, is a problem. I do have a trs around my carb, and it says on the engine at all time. I have a box of o ring that I use for TRS and a few bag of springs. I rather have it do a full job than a half job. Half job is having the spring only useful when the throttle control arm/lever is free, a full job should be able to move the servo with no power to it and still keep the carb close when it happens to be free. We are just letting you know the correct way to set up a FULL use of a TRS. Don't depend on your fail safe to bring the carb back to idle when the power is gone, fail safe are useless with no power. According your your reply, thats what you mainly depend on, and only depending on the trs to close the carb in event of the linkage comming off.

dg2b: Thanks for your commend, if you check on over to the For Sale forum, it's for sale. Take a look!

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http://ofna.com/ultLXpro.html

check this out. where would you hook a TRS up to on something like this??

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anybody?

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Wrap a o ring around the throttle lever or hook a spring pulling the servo horn toward the engine...

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hook the spring to where?? and I dont understand what your saying about the o ring :confused:

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If you read the other post, I post a pics of the o ring around the carb and also have a pic of the spring attach to the servo horn.

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yes I read them, but on that buggy the servo is facing a different way. My ? was wher do I hook the spring.

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? anyone?

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In that buggy, o-ring looks to be the best option. Look at Akina's pic on page 2 of this post.

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I looked at his pic, but can you tell me exactley what 2 parts that its connected to.