Fail safe ??????
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Fail safe ??????
In case of a loss of signal, it will set the servo's to a pre-defined setting. This is if it runs out of range, your transmitter hiccup's it won't just run at WOT till it hits something, you can make it automatically put the brakes on
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Fail safe ??????
Not a dumb question as I would ask the same.
To answer, any servo you want to failsafe.
If you want the throttle to failsafe, then it is goes between the throttle servo and the receiver. You attach the failsafe unit to the receiver and the throttle servo to the failsafe.
To answer, any servo you want to failsafe.
If you want the throttle to failsafe, then it is goes between the throttle servo and the receiver. You attach the failsafe unit to the receiver and the throttle servo to the failsafe.
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Fail safe ??????
Fail-safes or the fail-safe concept is generally used on the throttle. For obvious reasons. I set my boats and cars to make a small radius turn and go to idle.
There are several methods of obtaining a fail-safe feature.
Probably the most common in aircraft is the a PCM radio system... You have the ability to set multiple fail-safe parameters. Most manufactures of top end car radio offer PCM 3-channel radio systems.
Hitec servos have a programmable fail-safe feature with there Digital servos.
Many companies offer an in-line fail-safe circuit that is installed between the servo and the RX.
NO power, nothing functions... Fail-safe listen the control signal from the RX, when there is no signal for less than second the fail-safe initiates a hold or movement to pre-defined parameter. Once a signal is again recognized the fail-safe or hold is released and your driving again. This all can occur in less than a second...
You could power the servos independently of the RX power and have a redundant power source, but I thinks its over kill. You'd have to use a 4.8V battery pack.
There are several methods of obtaining a fail-safe feature.
Probably the most common in aircraft is the a PCM radio system... You have the ability to set multiple fail-safe parameters. Most manufactures of top end car radio offer PCM 3-channel radio systems.
Hitec servos have a programmable fail-safe feature with there Digital servos.
Many companies offer an in-line fail-safe circuit that is installed between the servo and the RX.
NO power, nothing functions... Fail-safe listen the control signal from the RX, when there is no signal for less than second the fail-safe initiates a hold or movement to pre-defined parameter. Once a signal is again recognized the fail-safe or hold is released and your driving again. This all can occur in less than a second...
You could power the servos independently of the RX power and have a redundant power source, but I thinks its over kill. You'd have to use a 4.8V battery pack.
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Fail safe ??????
ah so the failsafe by itself still needs 4.8 volts to work properly?
and
"NO power, nothing functions... Fail-safe listen the control signal from the RX, when there is no signal for less than second the fail-safe initiates a hold or movement to pre-defined parameter. Once a signal is again recognized the fail-safe or hold is released and your driving again. This all can occur in less than a second... "
is this with an "inline" failsafe?
like if the power goes out in your car it sends the servo to a spot like full brake?
and
"NO power, nothing functions... Fail-safe listen the control signal from the RX, when there is no signal for less than second the fail-safe initiates a hold or movement to pre-defined parameter. Once a signal is again recognized the fail-safe or hold is released and your driving again. This all can occur in less than a second... "
is this with an "inline" failsafe?
like if the power goes out in your car it sends the servo to a spot like full brake?
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Fail safe ??????
Basically, yeah.
You wire it inline with your throttle servo between the Rx and the servo, and then the Rx loses contact with the Tx, the failsafe causes the servo to go to a pre-set position (you can set it for whatever you want, its like setting up an electronic speed control). I run mine at half-brake so it slows the car without locking the wheels.
if you lose reciever power (on-board power) you are in a bad spot. No failsafe is going to help you with that. Often a throttle-return spring can help pull the servo back to a closed-throttle position, bu there are some problems there too. Often, you need a pretty hefty spring to overpower the servo with no juice. Thats fine, but a hefty spring on the throttle arm is a lot of resistance for the servo to pull against all the time, so its going to increase wear on the servo gears and motor, and its going to draw a lot more power, so you are going to go through batteries (on-board) much more often.
Your best defense against losing power on the car is to run a good 6V rechargable pack (so the batteries cannot pop lose) and make sure they are always well-charged. That way there are no AA batteries to pop out and send your car careening into a curb, or worse.
You wire it inline with your throttle servo between the Rx and the servo, and then the Rx loses contact with the Tx, the failsafe causes the servo to go to a pre-set position (you can set it for whatever you want, its like setting up an electronic speed control). I run mine at half-brake so it slows the car without locking the wheels.
if you lose reciever power (on-board power) you are in a bad spot. No failsafe is going to help you with that. Often a throttle-return spring can help pull the servo back to a closed-throttle position, bu there are some problems there too. Often, you need a pretty hefty spring to overpower the servo with no juice. Thats fine, but a hefty spring on the throttle arm is a lot of resistance for the servo to pull against all the time, so its going to increase wear on the servo gears and motor, and its going to draw a lot more power, so you are going to go through batteries (on-board) much more often.
Your best defense against losing power on the car is to run a good 6V rechargable pack (so the batteries cannot pop lose) and make sure they are always well-charged. That way there are no AA batteries to pop out and send your car careening into a curb, or worse.
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Fail safe ??????
If you lose your on-board power, you're screwed no matter what. In this case, your fail safe isn't going to do anything, and the throttle return spring is not going to override the servo. This discussion has been had in here many times about the throttle return spring. It's only function is to return the throttle to idle in the event the carb's throttle arm becomes mechanically disconnected from the servo. This spring cannot override the servo. The servo will remain in the last position it was at when it was receiving a signal.
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Fail safe ??????
i beg to differ, if you lose power the spring will work. It may not pull it all the way back but it is better than nothing. If your servo doesn't move without power on then there is a problem. I use a spring and it slows the car down good enough to recover.
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Fail safe ??????
I just turned my radio on, pulled the trigger to full throttle, then turned my radio off. The throttle remained at full throttle. The spring does not override the servo.
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Fail safe ??????
either your spring is too weak to be any good or your gears in your servo are too tight. can you move it by hand? if yes, you need a new spring. if no, somethings wrong with your servo.
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Fail safe ??????
It's working just fine. The spring isn't supposed to overcome the servo. If the spring was strong enough to overcome your servo, you'd wear out a servo after every hour of operation. That spring's only function is to return the throttle to idle in the event of a mechanical disconnect.
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Fail safe ??????
Originally posted by grampi
It's working just fine. The spring isn't supposed to overcome the servo. If the spring was strong enough to overcome your servo, you'd wear out a servo after every hour of operation. That spring's only function is to return the throttle to idle in the event of a mechanical disconnect.
It's working just fine. The spring isn't supposed to overcome the servo. If the spring was strong enough to overcome your servo, you'd wear out a servo after every hour of operation. That spring's only function is to return the throttle to idle in the event of a mechanical disconnect.
In order to test how both work, you should do the following:
Fail Safe: Turn on both RX and TX, turn off TX and see if the servo move to safe position with the warning light on(You can set the position you want it to be during interference or radio signal lost, I set it at full brake)
TRS: Turn on both RX and TX, full throttle, turn off RX switch, see if the spring pulls the servo back to idle. If not then it's too weak.
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Fail safe ??????
They aren't attached to the servo horn, they should be attached the ball joint attached to your carb arm. I don't have my fail safes yet. The reason I tested it the way I did by turning off my transmitter is because this will simulate exactly what will happen if you're driving your vehicle the the Rx looses it's signal. The throttle servo doesn't become any easir to turn just because the Rx lost it's signal. So think about it. If the spring were to be strong enough to move the servo when the Rx lost it's signal, then it would also be strong enough to prevent the servo from opening the throttle at all when the Rx is receiving a signal.
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Fail safe ??????
well, all the cars I've seen have them on the servo horn. even if it is on the carb linkage then the servo is still pulling on it, right? either way, the servo has to move the spring. do you have a pic of your setup?
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Fail safe ??????
Its not design for for signal lost, it is incase the rx lose POWER(wire cut, battery fall out during a accident, etc). If you ask most people, they know it's not for signal lost, if it was then most people will not buy a fail safe. If there is power going to the servos, then the trs will no do the job that it's suppose to.
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Fail safe ??????
Originally posted by jswinkos
well, all the cars I've seen have them on the servo horn. even if it is on the carb linkage then the servo is still pulling on it, right? either way, the servo has to move the spring. do you have a pic of your setup?
well, all the cars I've seen have them on the servo horn. even if it is on the carb linkage then the servo is still pulling on it, right? either way, the servo has to move the spring. do you have a pic of your setup?
Here is a pic of my car with the TRS around the carb. I use a O ring, it work best for slide carb.