Combat Questions
#1
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From: Salisbury, NC
I'm interested in building a combat plane. For me of corse but also to stir some intrest in my club. I have many questions but I'll only ask a few right now.
Considering a JK Aerotek FW190 what brand and size of engine is competative?
What is the opinions of foam vs stick built planes?
What are the ribbons made of and attached?
Any rules against using two sided tape on wing leading edges?
Any other suggestions for getting started?
Considering a JK Aerotek FW190 what brand and size of engine is competative?
What is the opinions of foam vs stick built planes?
What are the ribbons made of and attached?
Any rules against using two sided tape on wing leading edges?
Any other suggestions for getting started?
#2
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From: WA
1. Don't try to get people interested in hard to build planes. Try a Gremlin from racores.com , or a SPAD (d/l many different planes from spadtothebone.com).
2. Foam, foam, foam. The few "stick" planes that I have seen fly against there foam counter parts have all lost. Badly I must say. Except for one Sig Wounder.
3. Just basic crape paper from a party store, or party section at your grocery store. Either width to start out with, and about 30' long. They are attached with a 10' cotton line. I use a round servo arm, that is glued to my fuse, to attach the line to.
4. As far as double sided tape on L/E, some club rules yes, some no. National points, i.e. RCCA, you will have to d/l their rules at rccombat.com
5. Just do it. Don't try to get complicated with rules(K.I.S.S.). And do not let those old grouchy *****e$, ruin your fun.
:devious: pirate:
2. Foam, foam, foam. The few "stick" planes that I have seen fly against there foam counter parts have all lost. Badly I must say. Except for one Sig Wounder.
3. Just basic crape paper from a party store, or party section at your grocery store. Either width to start out with, and about 30' long. They are attached with a 10' cotton line. I use a round servo arm, that is glued to my fuse, to attach the line to.
4. As far as double sided tape on L/E, some club rules yes, some no. National points, i.e. RCCA, you will have to d/l their rules at rccombat.com
5. Just do it. Don't try to get complicated with rules(K.I.S.S.). And do not let those old grouchy *****e$, ruin your fun.
:devious: pirate:
#3

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From: SE, CT CT
Originally posted by BUCKETOBOLTS
Considering a JK Aerotek FW190 what brand and size of engine is competative?
The Fw-190 is a very small airframe. The larger JK Aerotech designs (P-47, F4U, Zero) are more competitive and better fliers due to more wing span and area. For power, The Norvel BigMig.25 is the most powerful for the price - but has a few reliabiltiy issues. My preference is either the OS.25FX or Irvine .25.
What is the opinions of foam vs stick built planes?
Balsa is completely unsuited for a combat model.
What are the ribbons made of and attached?
Crepe paper ribbon attached with cotton string. Surf around the "Kits/Plans" section of www.rccombat.com for HatTrick Ent., he sells the Dennecrepe (better than plain crepe) streamers.
Any rules against using two sided tape on wing leading edges?
Nope, it is legal.
Any other suggestions for getting started?
Go to www.rccombat.com and be prepared to do some sufing and reading. Feel free to post your questions there as well (a lot more traffic there!).
HTH
D
Considering a JK Aerotek FW190 what brand and size of engine is competative?
The Fw-190 is a very small airframe. The larger JK Aerotech designs (P-47, F4U, Zero) are more competitive and better fliers due to more wing span and area. For power, The Norvel BigMig.25 is the most powerful for the price - but has a few reliabiltiy issues. My preference is either the OS.25FX or Irvine .25.
What is the opinions of foam vs stick built planes?
Balsa is completely unsuited for a combat model.
What are the ribbons made of and attached?
Crepe paper ribbon attached with cotton string. Surf around the "Kits/Plans" section of www.rccombat.com for HatTrick Ent., he sells the Dennecrepe (better than plain crepe) streamers.
Any rules against using two sided tape on wing leading edges?
Nope, it is legal.
Any other suggestions for getting started?
Go to www.rccombat.com and be prepared to do some sufing and reading. Feel free to post your questions there as well (a lot more traffic there!).
HTH
D
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From: Wichita, KS,
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From: Salisbury, NC
Thanks for the replies.
Demon I also read the tread with the pics of your Jug, Zero and Mustang, and must say they are excellant works. But while I was on the Jk site I caught a little about the planes with the cowlings flying like a bucket. Any trueth to this? For by far my favorite warbird would have to be the Corsair. Must have been all those Blacksheep episodes when I was little or somthing. But anyhow I thought the F4U wing may be hard to construct.
Anyone in NC active in combat?
I believe all but may be one or two guys in the club are afraid of tearing up a perfectly good plane. Except maybe when the are trying to fly it like a helicopter.
Demon I also read the tread with the pics of your Jug, Zero and Mustang, and must say they are excellant works. But while I was on the Jk site I caught a little about the planes with the cowlings flying like a bucket. Any trueth to this? For by far my favorite warbird would have to be the Corsair. Must have been all those Blacksheep episodes when I was little or somthing. But anyhow I thought the F4U wing may be hard to construct.
Anyone in NC active in combat?
I believe all but may be one or two guys in the club are afraid of tearing up a perfectly good plane. Except maybe when the are trying to fly it like a helicopter.
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From: Wichita, KS,
#7

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From: SE, CT CT
Of the 3 I recomended:
The F4U is the slowest due to the heavy 'bent wing', but flies very well and is fast & agile enough to be competitive.
Compared to the F4U, the P-47 is better for speed & agility without the complicated wing.
The Zero is a screamer with any stout .25 out front. This one is the fastest and most agile of these 3.
All 3 benefit from keeping the weight down with iron-on coverings like TowerKote (instead of the recomended packing tape) and a strong .25 out front (especially with a mousse-can-muffler equipped Norvel, .25FX or Irvine).
The key to avoiding the radial designs' tendancy to "fly like buckets" is to be sure air can exit the rear of the cowl on the sides. This helps eliminate the parachute effect of the large, open front end.
HTH,
D
The F4U is the slowest due to the heavy 'bent wing', but flies very well and is fast & agile enough to be competitive.
Compared to the F4U, the P-47 is better for speed & agility without the complicated wing.
The Zero is a screamer with any stout .25 out front. This one is the fastest and most agile of these 3.
All 3 benefit from keeping the weight down with iron-on coverings like TowerKote (instead of the recomended packing tape) and a strong .25 out front (especially with a mousse-can-muffler equipped Norvel, .25FX or Irvine).
The key to avoiding the radial designs' tendancy to "fly like buckets" is to be sure air can exit the rear of the cowl on the sides. This helps eliminate the parachute effect of the large, open front end.
HTH,
D




