Steve108

My Feedback: (36)

I got the kit for my birthday and bought a 25FX to go with it. Thanks again everyone.

Steve

twostroker

My Feedback: (37)

Tell if I made a mistake. I took the advise of this thread and bought GWS NARO servos. I failed to read the thread correctly and did not buy the NARO PRO. The naro servos are 11oz. Are they too small? We are building a JKA Zero, FW190, and P51. All will have GMS 32 engines.

Tim

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I always ran standard size servos in mine. I did use micro servos (read same as NARO) for ailerons on my Corsair.

Clean

I ran Hitec 81's which are 36 oz torque, BUT I ran one servo in the center of the wing. If you are running two servos out in the wing ON THE UPPER SIDE, you might get away with it, but PRO servos are 22 ounce of torque and it would be more power than what I ran. Then again I ran Norvel 25's and you're upping the power.

Me, I'd order the pro versions and use the regular one for throttle control. The darn Pro versions are listed cheaper at Tower anyways so why not?

twostroker

My Feedback: (37)

Hey thanks! I will send them back for the NARO PRO servos.

We are looking forward to some 2610 Combat at our place in the months to come. Anyone in Mid-Michigan that wants to join in let me know. I will tell you when and where.

Tim

JunkYardDawg

My Feedback: (1)

Tim,

Where do I find that rules for 2610 Combat?

Clean

www.rccombat.com is the RCCA homepage and the where you'd look for the rules on 2610. Basically, 1/12th scale WWII airplanes +/- 10% with 26 and under engines. JKAerotech makes some pretty good, easy flying, Easy building airplanes. If you have a 25FX do a Jug or build the TA-152. The Corsair is a cool airplane as well. You have a lot of wing and with enough power you can drag it around at a pretty respectible speed but all that wing makes it loop pretty tight. If you want to go fast, build one of their mustangs. Follow the building techniques and do your own airplanes the next time if you want with their techniques, you'll be pretty happy.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I liked the FW 190 and Corsair the best. They were very easy to fly.

Steve108

My Feedback: (36)

Are the MINI/STD servos too big to fit in the wing? I have 4 of those and 3 HS-81's. My plan is to use 3 MINI/STD for ailerons and elevator and an HS-81 for throttle. Is that okay or should I use the HS-81's in the wing too?

Thanks,
Steve

JunkYardDawg

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Clean , I will look it up and study rules I plan on flying combat too

Clean

81s do fit in the wing and have 36 ounces of torque, what do your std minis have? And as mentioned before, regardless of which servo you use, put them in the TOP of the corsair wing. You will be landing on your control horns otherwise and constantly ripping your servo gears out.

barrelracer

My Feedback: (99)

I have 2 of the Corsair"s and both fly great I use them as sport flyers.My set up is KB.28 ,Hitec mini's all around.I allso found some plastic contaners at WalMart that was the right shape for the cowl.The best part about them they are stong and cheap.All in all you will not go wrong with this plane,it hand launchs good does not snap in turns etc etc.Have fun with it

jkaerotech

Hi Steve, Im not sure who told you that our planes are hard to fix. When I go to the flying field, I usually take along clear 2" tape-5 minute epoxy and extra props. I think the longest down time I have had is an hour and then Im back in the air. I love going to combat events where there is alot of balsa planes. I like the way balsa twirls through the air after a mid air hit. The engines you have will work great. If you want a sport flyer and tamer flying plane, just leave the wings a little longer. On our webpage, there is links to many different building techniques from people on our customer comments page. Any of the suggestion others have posted are all good ideas. The whole idea behind these planes is to have fun and not worry about the occasional bad landing. JKAerotech

Clean

Hey guy, can you go to this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4552795/tm.htm and get ahold of whoever it was that was looking for you? Maybe that guy already has his planes, I hope so, he didn't have much summer left to play with. Not that it would matter around here. Winter just means I sweat less, till I have to put the overalls on.

I think the only durability question is where I told him to put his servo arms on the top.

Steve108

My Feedback: (36)

For servos I have the plain GWS MINI/STD. It measures 35mm x 16.9mm x 32mm, .86oz. Looking at my kit they seem a little thick. What do you think? Also, in the instructions, you mention that you found a brand of contact cement that works best. What brand of contact cement is that? This will probably be the last plane I build before college so I want to do it perfect.

Thanks,

Steve

Clean

If you have a slight bulge for the servo, so be it. You could always build the bulge on the bottom, but leave the arms on top. Refresh me on Contact cement, the only thing I've ever used was 3m77 but stock now it'll eat foam. There is a replacement, 79?

Steve108

My Feedback: (36)

In the "newer" instructions they say that contact cement can be used instead of spray glue and actually holds the tape better.

Having the large servo in there doesn't make the wing weak?

Thanks,

Steve

Clean

You're running two servos, one per wing right? The way I always mounted my JK aerotech wings was to cover them with tape and use Poly U to glue them in, they become an integral part of the wing that way. I'll have to scope on the online building instructions and see what contact cement they switched too. Although the 3m77 was pretty effective for me, I do have a TV remote control that still wants to stick to my hand from the overspray. 3m77 by the way was contact cement as well, I'm assuming your talking about a spray on.

Oh and I'm not JKAerotech or even affiliated although I did do a review on thier Mustang and Jug for RCCA once upon a time. I did turn some of my local guys onto building them or building planes like them. I think it was the showing up at a mall show with a box of pink foam and walking home with a Mustang that was ready to paint. Darrin Bellis fights with their airplanes as well and a bunch of RCCA guys went and started making airplanes like that at about the same time. I don't know what the percentages of people in America still fight wood, then again, RCCA is not all of America. Wood is still a little lighter and much more tasty

Bob Byrnes

I have flown the Corsair, The P-47 and now have a zero. I found the JK Aerotech kits easy to build and repair. My Corsair has finally been retired after 3 years and many flights. The Guys at JK were excellent with advice and product support. I flew many RCCA events in Michigan and had a ball. I now just fly for fun locally, but, my zero will turn almost in it's own length and is a hoot to fly. The P-47 is bigger and not as fast but flies equally as well and can be made to look really great as a sport flier. Just my .02 cents worth.

Montague

When I got started with scale combat, I flew JKA p-47N's and they are great flying planes, tough, easy to build an repair, and they can be quite effective, even against the best out there. They give up a little in wingspan (or a lot, depending on what the other guy has), but if you keep them light (mine were right at 3lbs ready to fly less fuel), they really turn tight.

Just a couple of weekends ago I spent 8 rounds chasing a JKA P-47 all over the place, and even my Firebrands didn't have a huge performance edge of the P-47, I really had to work to get him.

A soda-bottle cowl and some extra sanding on the fuse goes a long way.

The JKA P-47 is still the plane I suggest to someone who wants to try scale combat for the first time.

Steve108

My Feedback: (36)

I have started building my plane. The wing is taped and has spars but still seems a little flexible. Do these wings flex more than built up balsa wings?

Montague

Yes, they do flex a little, and that's a good thing.

I don't know what JKA is using for spars these days, but when I built mine, I replaced the spars with 1/8" fiberglass rods top and bottom and ran them out to 1" short of the wingtips.

Reverse_Sensing

JKA all the way!!!! If it is combat or sport that you want, these planes are top notch. Ive gone through my fair share of these planes and I can tell you with confidence, that these planes are awesome. They fly great and are super easy to repair. Nothing a little tape or gorilla glue cant fix. Ive replaced engines before fixing anything else on the airframe. I personally like the corsair the best for its stability with its wing dyhedral. The zero is pretty quick along with muststang but does suffer a bit with slow flight stability. Prop selection will definately make a huge difference with launching and lowspeed aerodynamics. Like everybody else mentioned before, stick with the OS .25 FX, you pay for what you get. It is a definate must that you reinforce the wing the provided balsa or I prefer like most the carbon fiber. Take your time through to ensure all the building is true and you will be extremely happy with the outcome. One thing I feel a lot of people suffer on JKA model outcomes is there final taping of the aircraft. Pay close atention to keeping the aircraft aerodynamically clean. All the little wrinkles and lines add up and increase the amount of parasite drag negatively affecting both stall and top speeds. Overall I cannot recommend these planes more. I hope they come out with some more warbirds and increase their selection. Hope yours turns out good!

Steve108

My Feedback: (36)

What type of prop did you find to work well on the Corsair with the 25 fx?

Demon

Most people prefer a 9x4 on the OS.25FX. I prefer the MA 10x4.

D