http://www.spadtothebone.com/misc/HOR01.jpg
http://www.spadtothebone.com/misc/HOR02.jpg
http://www.spadtothebone.com/misc/HOR03.jpg
http://www.spadtothebone.com/misc/HOR04.jpg
http://www.spadtothebone.com/misc/HOR05.jpg
http://www.spadtothebone.com/misc/HOR06.jpg

thanks tattoo, really neat plane.....going out to the garage and start one now!!!!!going to the store tomorrow for the stuff i dont have.....bill w.

Here's some pictures of a rudder version

http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR01.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR02.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR03.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR04.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR05.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR06.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR07.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR08.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR09.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR10.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR11.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR12.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR13.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR14.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR15.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR16.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR17.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR18.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR19.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR20.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR21.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR22.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR23.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR24.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR25.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR26.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR27.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR28.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR29.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR30.jpg
http://members.cox.net/spad/pics/SRR31.jpg

You are most welcome Brickwoodward!!!

This is just too much cheap fun!!!

Holy cow! You are the step by step Paintshop Pro building photo sequence God!!! Excellent job! The pictures are even in focus!
Woohoo. And the dimension marks are oversized so we can see them. WOHOOO! My only question is.....where exactly does the cat food come into play? Is that part of a bomb drop thing?? lol

AAAAA+++++ work

Thanks man! Sassy taught me everything I know about digital cameras. It was all done in good old MS paint. The cat food is for if you get hungry and need something to go with the Pepsi breaks

FANTASTIC!!!!
I have been wanting to try combat, but didn't want to spend a bunch to learn. This is perfect. Thanks for the awesome instructions, I can't wait to build one.

What does it end up weighing? What kind of speed does it reach?

Thanks! The V-tail version ended up at 2 pounds 12 ounces and the rudder version came out to 2 pounds 11 ounces. With the wings having over 400 squares, this is still almost motor glider wing loading I would put straight and level foreward air speed between 30 and 40 mph tops. Collin and I were out flying our rail planes last weekend in 20 mph winds, and the forward speed was about a 10 mph crawl...it was a blast!

Tattoo,
Thanks a ton for the instructions for the HOR. I'm going to make mine a "Russian HOR", and put one of my Russian -built Cyclon .15's on it - these babies only turn a 7 x 4 at 28K!!!! I'll probably put a little extra right thrust in it!
~John

Tattoo,

Just a little FYI for ya... Last week I built 2 HOR's in preparation for the Pearl Harbor Classic out in San Diego on the 8th of December. One is a 1" aluminum angle 32" long Open-A plane with V-tail and Magnum 15. 48" coro wing, etc., 2lbs. Flies WONDERFULLY! Got one practice flight in on it Friday before we left for CA.

Plane #2 is an Open-B, 1 1/2" aluminum angle, 32", 48" coro wing, cruciform tail with no rudder (the plane is basically a Debut with the angle aluminum fuse) less than 3 lbs. Did not get one good flight on it before we left because I put a brand new Magnum .28 on it and it was not making any power yet. Took it to CA with me anyway.

Got to CA and signed up for Open-B and Scale (JKA Zero). Put the B-ship up after running half a tank through it on the ground. Was way under-powered for my taste, but flew just like my old Debut, which is to say wonderfully. The first two rounds I flew it with the stock engine and a Fox glow plug. Rounds 3 and 4 I had a mousse can and pipe on it, and switched to an OS 8 glow plug. Man, that Magnum really came to life.

Well, to make a long story short I flew B-ship through 4 rounds of Open-B, got good cuts in every round. Only had one minor mid-air tap, wingtip to wingtip flying in the same direction so no one went down. All you heard was "click" and we all kept going. That thing flew sooooo well, I love it.

Anyways, your HOR design took 1st place at the Pearl Harbor Classic against all manner of Open-B planes. I heard that there were 27 Open-B pilots, and we had upwards of 9 planes in each heat flying in a rather tight airspace due to the fields location. Yep, I am pleased as punch. Look for the debrief on RCCombat later, I am sure Terry will post one.

I also have to really give those guys credit over in CA, they put on a HECK of an event. It was very well run, and we got in 8 rounds of combat in one day. 4 each of Open-B and 2610 Scale. We will definately make the trip again!

BIG BIG SMILE!!! Thanks for the report!!!

Tattoo,
I'm thinking about building this HOR model, and have a couple questions. Why is the top wing half cut down the center ling? Second, I was thinking about adding a second servo on the tail and using the mixing funtion of my Flash radio, what do you think about me doing this?

Thanks
Philip

I cut the top wing panel into two sections simply because it's easier to fold and glue 1/2 of the wing at a time. Folding and gluing the entire wing at one time is hard to manage, but if you think you can comfortably do it, by all means go for it! As for mixing the elevators, on a hand launched combat plane, it isn't worth the trouble or extra weight. I've never done it, but this experience comes from two fellow combat pilots who have done it. But if you were to add landing gear and use it as a sport plane, the mixing would be usefull for ground handeling. I should also add that if you were to make a HOR into a 4 channel sport plane with LG, it would more than likely need more power than a .15!

That makes good sense. Would you mind if I ask a couple more? I also took a look at the Rudder version, and I noticed it had a different type of rail. Is there an advantage to one type over the other. I know for the V-Tail the angle iron will mount better, but is one stronger or lighter? Second question, I've yet to build a glow model, been in electrics for the last two years and was thinking that I could us one of my micro servos for the throttle? Seems like even the smallest of servos would be fine for this?

Thanks
Philip

There has been alot of question and answers on the rccombat.com topic forums, just do a search on HOR and plan on being entertained for a hour or two.

Consensus is that the L channel is stouter than the C channel. You can get by without cutting the top center of the wing, but it would then take you 3 or 4 pair of hands to hold everything down.

You can use the L channel to build a conventional tailed plane, just turn the L channel over to where the flat part is on top. Gunfighter flew one in the Tyler SSC and was very competitive with it.

Phillip, where are you in Houston?

If your interested in flying some combat, we fly most every sunday at GCRC in S. Houston.

thojo,
I live on the NW side of town, my friend just bought the Alfa trainer and I have been training him the last two weeks with it. This is my frist taste of glow, and I don't have the slightest clue how to tune a motor. But he really wants to get into combat flying, so I'm sure we would be both interested. I'm not sure what GCRC stands for, as because up till now I've been strickly a park flyer and don't know of the many feilds in the Greater Houston area.

Philip

send me an email at [email protected] and I'll be happy to give you any information I can about combat, or spads in general... take out the nospam from the above address.

I generaly use full size servos for throttle just because they are cheaper, having said that i have 2 planes with HiTech 81's on the throttle of 20 size SPAD's to try and save weight and room

Ok sounds good, the reason I was asking is becasue the largest servo I have is the HS-55, and my largest model so far has been 10 oz and lightest has been 10 grams, so this is a BIG step for me. So I really don't have the slightest clue on to what servos I will be needing. The sad thing is everyone says standard servos, to me that means HS-55s. So would the HS-81 be too small for the elevator?
Thanks

HS-81's will work for the elevator...however...they will NOT hold up to combat if that's what you are wanting to do. They can't take a hit at all. If you are not going to fly combat, and used HS-81 mg's I would say it will work fine, but beware, many pilots I know have been having LOTs of trouble with the HS-81 mg's and pg's just quit working for no reason after a season or so. BTW, the HS-81's will work fine on the throttle.

I agree with tattoo. Do not use the HS81 plastic gear servos, unless you want to replace gears every time you get mid-aired. I have had the plastic gears strip even without getting hit. The HS81mg's are much stronger. I have several. HS85MG are even better, but more expensive. This season, I will go with the cheapest standard servos I can find. If they get torn up in a contest, its cheaper to buy brand new ones again instead of sending them in for repair. I bet the hs55 servos would strip even on a throttle if it binds a little. The smallest I would use is the hs81. I do use hs85mg and hs81mg on elevator and ailerons, but I have had them 'magically' quit working.

I have gone to HS225MG's on all ailerons now, and HS85MG's on elevators.

All of my original plastic-geared servos have been converted to metal-gear by now too, except one that I am using on a throttle. The only reason that I have not converted it yet is that I still have a few plastic gear sets left for it. Yes, if you have a plastic geared Hitec, the corresponding MG set will replace the PG when you strip one out.

As a matter of fact, just before the Duel Over The Desert my LHS (Hobby Barn, hobbybarn.com) got tapped out of the MG servos that I use, so I picked up one el-cheapo Cirrus servo from them for a throttle... hahaha, it has survived one mid-air and one serious lawn dart from about 80' that destroyed a gutter-pipe SPAD.

Thanks for all the good advise, standard servos I will buy.

Philip

I have been buying MG servos and replacement set too. I have been trying to get away from using standard servos, to heavy. I then use that to add reinforcement where needed.

Philip,

If you're interested in what a "standard" servo really is, and what the various other types of servos are, look them up at http://www.hitecrcd.com.

Servos come in various classes: Giant, Standard, Mini, Micro, Sub-Micro. While the HS-55 may be your standard servo, it is in reality a sub-micro servo. In fact, none of the servos recommended so far in this thread are standard servos. The HS-81 is a micro servo. The HS-225 is a mini servo. Standard Hitec servos measure about: 1.6"x0.8"x 1.4". Standard servos from other manufacturers are approximately the same size.