Strapping tape
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: newrichmond,
WI
I got to get some strapping tape to cover a form wing on a combat plane(Battle Floyd).
Is there color bidirectional tape that I can get on the market somewhere ?
or what do you all use to cover the wing ?
Thanks
Is there color bidirectional tape that I can get on the market somewhere ?
or what do you all use to cover the wing ?
Thanks
#2
Radcom,
The only Bi-Di tape available is clear (tan). We use colored packing tape or econokote to cover our wings. The colored tape is faster and easier, though either will work. Most guys use colored tape.
This is blue tape.
No matter what you cover the wing with, cover the entire wing in Bi-Di tape first.
Alex Treneff
The only Bi-Di tape available is clear (tan). We use colored packing tape or econokote to cover our wings. The colored tape is faster and easier, though either will work. Most guys use colored tape.
This is blue tape.

No matter what you cover the wing with, cover the entire wing in Bi-Di tape first.
Alex Treneff
#4
Radcom,
I am suggesting to always use Bi-Di. On the Battle Axe we fully cover the wing in Bi-Di. I don't know how the "floyd" usually does it, but if I were you I would fully cover the wing in Bi-Di, and then use the colored tape or econokote.
The Bi-Di tape is what gives the wing it's strength. The colored tape or econokote gives little strength compared to the Bi-Di, it's just for cosmetics and streamlining..
Alex Treneff
I am suggesting to always use Bi-Di. On the Battle Axe we fully cover the wing in Bi-Di. I don't know how the "floyd" usually does it, but if I were you I would fully cover the wing in Bi-Di, and then use the colored tape or econokote.
The Bi-Di tape is what gives the wing it's strength. The colored tape or econokote gives little strength compared to the Bi-Di, it's just for cosmetics and streamlining..
Alex Treneff
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ferndale,
WA
I've attached a couple of links to coloured packing tape suppiers (the stuff is hard to find locally)
have also included a link for a supplier of fiberglass spars.
http://www.fast-pack.com/colored_tape.html
http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_...lor+Coded+Tape
http://www.goodwindskites.com/merch/...olidfiberglass
have also included a link for a supplier of fiberglass spars.
http://www.fast-pack.com/colored_tape.html
http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_...lor+Coded+Tape
http://www.goodwindskites.com/merch/...olidfiberglass
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: newrichmond,
WI
Thanks to everyone for your help.I bookmark the web sites .
I will Bi-Di the wing and cover with color tape, and fiberglass the spar.
Thanks
I will Bi-Di the wing and cover with color tape, and fiberglass the spar.
Thanks
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: newrichmond,
WI
Killer,
should I use fiberglass for the spar,to reinforce the wing ..?
Also should I use Gorilla glue or epoxy to join the wing halves together..?
should I use fiberglass for the spar,to reinforce the wing ..?
Also should I use Gorilla glue or epoxy to join the wing halves together..?
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ferndale,
WA
If you fully cover the wing with Bi-Di (heavy) you may not even need to think about
using fiberglass spars.
There are many different ways to do wings and I can only speak for what I have seen
and how I go about doing a wing (I am NO expert)
Here is what I do, 5 min epoxy wing halves together Gorilla/Ultimate glue the 1/8
fiberglass spars into their slots (top & bottom) and wrap the spar area with Bi-Di
allowing at least a foot of overlapwhere the 2 ends cross )1 piece comletely around
wing, not one on piece top and one piece on the bottom. Put some long flat
weight on it so the glue does not foam and cause an bump on your airfoil, let it set
overnight.
Bi-Di leading and trailing edges with one contiuous piece each.
Cover with coloured tape after ailerons are installed.
Don't forget to dust wing with Super 77 before applying the Bi-Di or coloured tape.
Martin
using fiberglass spars.
There are many different ways to do wings and I can only speak for what I have seen
and how I go about doing a wing (I am NO expert)
Here is what I do, 5 min epoxy wing halves together Gorilla/Ultimate glue the 1/8
fiberglass spars into their slots (top & bottom) and wrap the spar area with Bi-Di
allowing at least a foot of overlapwhere the 2 ends cross )1 piece comletely around
wing, not one on piece top and one piece on the bottom. Put some long flat
weight on it so the glue does not foam and cause an bump on your airfoil, let it set
overnight.
Bi-Di leading and trailing edges with one contiuous piece each.
Cover with coloured tape after ailerons are installed.
Don't forget to dust wing with Super 77 before applying the Bi-Di or coloured tape.
Martin
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Laurel, MD,
A stock Battle Floyd uses a full-thickness hard balsa spar. It works ok for flying against other Floyds, but it IS prone to breaking. I started flying combat with Floyds.
I suggest you get some 1/8" fiberglass rods, and cut a slot top and bottom and put them in the wing. If you can stand to loose 1/4" of wing chord, then just leave the wood spar out.
With either spar, I suggest you NOT cover the entire wing with the bi-di tape. That stuff is HEAVY. I just use a strip over the top and bottom of the spar, another strip along the TE, and one on the LE. If you do it right, the strip around the LE will reach the spar strips, or be really close. But you don't need the heavy bi-di between the spar and TE.
Then I use the colored tape over the whole wing of course. I think the colored tape is actually stronger than the heat-shrink coverings because the overlaps in the tape acts to stop cuts and tears from spreading. And the tape does shrink a bit with heat to take out wrinkles.
Btw, another quick tip with the Battle Floyd. Don't use wood on the fuse sides, you get a much strong fuse if you use 4mm coro instead. And if you taper the back of the fuse, you really knock down the drag and weight for an easy performance boost. If you look at http://www.midatlanticcombat.com/rapier.htm you can see what I've done with a Floyd-inspired fuse that I redesigned. You can take a lot of the ideas there and use them on your floyd kit.
I suggest you get some 1/8" fiberglass rods, and cut a slot top and bottom and put them in the wing. If you can stand to loose 1/4" of wing chord, then just leave the wood spar out.
With either spar, I suggest you NOT cover the entire wing with the bi-di tape. That stuff is HEAVY. I just use a strip over the top and bottom of the spar, another strip along the TE, and one on the LE. If you do it right, the strip around the LE will reach the spar strips, or be really close. But you don't need the heavy bi-di between the spar and TE.
Then I use the colored tape over the whole wing of course. I think the colored tape is actually stronger than the heat-shrink coverings because the overlaps in the tape acts to stop cuts and tears from spreading. And the tape does shrink a bit with heat to take out wrinkles.
Btw, another quick tip with the Battle Floyd. Don't use wood on the fuse sides, you get a much strong fuse if you use 4mm coro instead. And if you taper the back of the fuse, you really knock down the drag and weight for an easy performance boost. If you look at http://www.midatlanticcombat.com/rapier.htm you can see what I've done with a Floyd-inspired fuse that I redesigned. You can take a lot of the ideas there and use them on your floyd kit.



