Hi i need plans for biplane ww1 for engine 25 osfx. Thanzs!

Go to www.aerofred.com. Free downloads.

Put in google Arizona models

Old Erkki

model airplane news also has a plan for the DVII. Fokker D-VII
Description: A mini WWI fighter for RC combat!

Designed by David Johnson, this diminutive Fokker D-VII is extremely easy to build and uses traditional construction techniques. The model has been designed around a .25-size engine and a C.B. Tatone Universal muffler for building ease. Flight performance is very good, and it doesn't have any of the bad habits that small biplanes sometimes exhibit.
Additional Information:

* Type: sport-scale WWI biplane
* Wingspan: 43.25 in.
* Length: 32.5 in.
* Weight: 55 oz.
* Wing Area: 519 sq. in.
* Wing Loading: 15.26 oz./sq. ft.
* Airfool: flat-bottom
* Radio req'd: 4-channel (aileron, elevator, throttle and rudder)
* Engine req'd: .25 2-stroke
* Engine used: O.S. .25 LA
* Difficulty Level: 2
* Sheets: 1


Difficulty Level:
LD2
Item Number: FSP0204A X0204A
$14.95

Combat was what it was designed for along with it's SE5 sibling. Takes a week of evenings to build and cover. I envy all you guys with enough interest surrounding you to do this! In the DVII article were proposed rules we were using in CT. Since moving to IL, no interest.

Dave

That aerofred model seems to be wayyy over priced. I wonder how many of those have sold. Not a viable design for combat.

Greetings from Canada,

antique opa, Thanks for posting the specs for the Dave Johnson Fokker D-7. Those are what we used starting building coro WW1 combat planes 4-5 yrs ago.

Around 44in. span with 500sq.in. area and a 1in. thick flat bottom airfoil works great with 4-5lb weights. Many time repaired ones are still flying around 6lbs, but are more like Recc/bomber performance.

We prefer the O.S.FX with the baffle in and/or a muffler tube extension. (it makes cleaning them so much easier with a 4in. muffler extenson)
10-3 10-4 11-3 props

We just scale up any WW1 subject we like and 'adjust' the outline to make it look like a good flying model airplane. i.e. lengthen the nose/increase tail areas/put the wheels in the right spot/simplify cabanes/etc.
They all look cool from 15ft in the pits, and even better 4-6 planes up in a Heat !!!

They are great flying sport planes.

We started building a few WW1s to use up old O.S.FPs/Magnums/etc that could not compete with the O.S.FX for our WW2 combat planes. None of us ever thought WW1 combat would be so much Fun! Or that we would get 10-15 pilots flying in a WW1 Match !

All it should take in your area is to build two, tie some streamers on them and the interest will grow...

I hope you get a chance to fly WW1 combat. We have a laugh every time we fly them...
The spectators really like it too...

Take care,
Have fun,
Dave'crosscheck'Fallowfield
Maac 6437
Unabashed Combat Team

Crosscheck, Do you build your DVII with a coro fuse, or coro and foam like the D5a?

opa,

The D7 is a stitched 2mm coroplast fuse. The only foam on this one are the ribs on the upper wing, and the turtledeck.

opa,

I started a thread on RC Canada http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=75593 that uses the stitched 2mm coro fuse. The top of the fuse is flat so that the tail is at zero degrees incidence. You build up the the turtle deck with a piece of foam. Hopefully, I'll get to that part of my build in a couple weeks.

This build method, developed by Buzz RTC and Bent, is simply genious! The fuse is like a baseball bat; incredibly tough yet light. As a matter of fact, I would say this build method yields a fuse that is at least 1 pound lighter than the coro and foam method of the D.Va.

To prove the resiliency of this method, I point to Bent's D7 from Bloody April. It suffered 3 mid-air collisions, a couple crash landings and, I believe, at least one take-off cartwheel yet still managed to survive till the last round of combat.

Marc

Are you using 4mm for the formers in the DVII fuse? How many, where? Do you run the 440 cabane supports through it? What is the thickness of the foam ribs? Is everything at zero incidence. [ wings, stab, thrust]? On the pic's of the fuse on rccanada, It shows three sides of the fuse in the cutout. Did you sew the bottom on from a seperate piece? I found some DVII plans on the net and enlarged them to about 43.5 wing span. Just need to figure the rest out.

Wow,

This is going to turn into a build thread. I'll try and inlcude some pics from my Bristol Scout which uses the same design principles.

The foam ribs are about 3/16" thick stuck onto a flat piece of 4mm coro wih double sided tape. sign vinyl is stretched over them for covering.

The bottom piece of coro is a seperate piece.

My D7 has everythinbg at zero incidence, but requires some downtrim, so if you are building one, you may want to build the horizontal stab to scale, which was at the same angle as the turtledeck (roughly 2 degrees)

First start wih 4mm coro box. This will be from the pilot fwd. The 2mm is sandwiched over this with no formers. I've included some teaser pictures to get you going.

The cabane connecting points, are pieces of 4-40 threaded rod, bent at a 90 and polyurethane glued into the flutes of the 4mm box. The 2mm coro is then contact cemented over the 4mm box, and stiched at all seams leading aft.

more pics

BuzzRTC,

That's not a plane, it's a work of art!

Marc A.

Now were getting somewhere. I think I can handle it. Do you use a split elev. or use a joiner wire?
Thanks for the pic's, Dont stop now. Post some more.

As this thread started with the question for wwi-plans, I think I´m allowed to show you our wwi-workshop we did last winter in our RC-network forum:
(not to enter in competition with BuzzRCT, our Bristol Scout is completely made from wood)

We started with the wings. then we made the elevator and at last the rudder. What is the weight of your coroplast construction?

Henner

Hi Henner,

Beautiful construction on your Scouts. I am the only one here flying balsa/foam construction with the coro planes here. That was until my Spad VII met head on with a coro Fokker Dr-1 ! It was SPECTACULAR ! Some of the balsa splinters went upwards in a thermal ! It is getting rebuilt with new coro wings. (the Dr-1 flew the next round after some field repairing ! )

A light coro WW1 biplane is 4lbs/ 4.5lbs for an average one/past 5.5lbs and the performance goes way down.

Hi opa,

Yes on the wire elevator half joiner. Depending on the stiffness of the coro hinge you might need it thicker/stronger than coathanger wire. Some use pull/pull instead of pushrods to lighten the tail.

Don't forget to jam all the gear as far fwd as you can. Some early planes needed up to 1lb of noseweght to balance and were real dogs.

Personally, I enjoy the challenge of 'figuring out' how to do a plane. We are all learning from each other. I've lost count of all the different cabane methods we've tried !

Take care,
Have fun,
Dave'crosscheck'Fallowfield
Maac 6437
Unabashed Combat Team

Hi Dave,
must have been an interesting crash, with the balsa-parts going up into the sky. I also had a nice crash with a Fokker Dr 1. I flew my Halberstadt, which is quite a strong airframe. As we crashed together, the Fokker was "raining" down in 1000 parts, my Halberstadt lost one upper wing and was able to land safely.

O.k. lets go on with the Scout. Next we did the fuselage from lite-ply, spruce stringers and balsa. After fixing the lower wing, I put it all together on grandma´s old balance. Until here we got less than 1 lb ! The total weight of the whole plane is 1250 gramms ready to fly. If I calculate correctely, this is less than 3 lb. And I was thinking, coroplast was very light!

Henner

Nice plane Henner,

Problem is, we could build 6 coro planes in the time it takes to build the wings for that balsa Scout!
Also, one midair, and the weather man would be calling for balsa drizzles!

Even at 2 lbs heavier, the coro planes are a better time/money investment I think.