Well guys, iam starting my dream! Making RC cars!
Here are the pics of my bracket car cardboard layout.
As you can see, iam in the developtment stages, and the cardboard layout aint really accurate on the specs, but iam 1/2way close.
This car, SBS DR1, is based on a RC10 drivetrain, and Custom Works front end. Iam changing the shocks to TC3, the stock Delta shock aint really good i think.
Also on the SBS DR1 version, iam gonna mount the motor behind the rear wheels.
On my other car iam designing SBS DR2, the motor will be mounted inboard, thus moving the electrics forward on the chassis.
The SBS DR1 and SBS DR2 chassis will have a RC10 transmission, but iam looking to switch over to the "Stealth" transmission soon!
The rear arms are "older" RC10 pieces. so you can get them from Tower Hobbies or Ebay.
And SBS DR1 version will have a rear swaybar mounted up on the shock tower.
As you can see, this is the beggining of the cars! Iam ordering the Carbon Fiber Mon, and hopefully start building my cars!
My goal is to produce 3 RTR SBS DR1 cars, and 2 RTR SBS DR2 cars by April, and sell them to public!
I cannot promise that the finally product will look like the same chassis! Iam always thinking of better ways to improve my design!

Well, here you go on the first pics of the SBS DR1! ill be posting my progress on this thread, so comment me on ideas, or anything!
Thanks
SBS Motorsports

why use shocks and a gearbox?

Cuz these are a "bracket" car, and i think you can be more consitant with shocks and a gearbox!
And you can also adjust your slip, shock springs, shock oil via type of track conditions.
So, say that your spining off the line, put less weight oil in it, or adjust the slip so the power comes in smoother.
These aint gonna be reaching Pro Mod Speeds!
My RTR packages are gonna have brushed motors ranging from 15T-20T, and the batterys are gonna be 3300 or 3600 stick packs, and also keep the cost down!

Nobody like to talk on here???

And if there is someone on here, i have a question?
Ive been looking a "Real" RC drag cars, and some of them mount the battery sideways, does that help weight transfer? Or is that just for space problems???

I am VERY new to dragracing but I have heard that correct weight positioning is around 30-70. Dont take my word on it though!

Longer chassis are more stable and there is nothing wrong with using shocks. If setup right it can transfer the weight nicely. You can mount the battery anyway you want.

So, you guys are saying that 30% needs to be in front and 70% needs to be in back??? Huh, ive got that already figured in the the chassis design with a tranny, battery located in back, and the motor behind the rear wheels!
Also, ive been looking around for wheels, and GMS rear wheels just fit the GMS hubs, so... you guys think RC Oval Foams would work???
Also, ive been studying the Dragspec chassis, iam wanting to do a rear drivetrain like that!
So.. iam gonna order the rear drivetrain parts Sat, and make a cardboard layout for that rear design also!
I might go that way in mass production or just do "Specials" on those designs!
Thanks
SBS Motorsports

Hi hrnts69,

Cardboard template looks like a good start. Smart laying out everything before you cutout the real chassis.

I'll pass along what works for me. You will adjust and alter the info you are gathering anyway once you begin bracket racing your own car.

40/60 static is what I run. 40percent weight front; 60percent weight rear-static, e.g., not under acceleration or braking. I have raced both a Rustler conversion bracket truck and my bracket rail at 40/60. My new bracket car sits at 37/63. My new Top Fuel electric rail will come in around 40/60. With 40/60 I don't need a wheelie bar and still get the traction I need for acceleration. The instant my car leaves the line it transfers some percentage of the weight to the rear. So dynamically, I'm guessing its 38/62, or maybe as high as 36/64.

Battery mounting and location. I use transverse (across the chassis) rather than inline. Transverse allows me to concentrate the weight along a narrower battery centerline relative to the chassis. That allows me more F/R weight balance. BUT. BUT. That was using the mass of older round NiMh cells. The newer LiPo/LiMn battery packs are much lighter, so moving them within the limited range I had on my chassis doesn't make that big a difference. So I would say, first off, battery location for a round cell pack is much more critical to weight balance that the new generation polymer family.

As far as not liking to talk. Yeah, I do. I want to pass along as much useful information as I can. But I am finding the more I RC drag race, the less it seems I know! Make sense? Doesn't to me either. But what I am learning is that there many variables in RC drag racing to take into account. You'll still have to work out a lot for your particular application. That's what makes it so much fun.

Hope this helps. Have fun.

AC

GMS wheels don't only fit on GMS hubs.

The GMS 1/10 scale hub is the same as you would find on an oval pan car only drilled/tapped for a crown gear on the drive side.

1/12 scale hubs have been used by GMS, Dragmaster, Lockmann, etc. The GMS Tires (actually TM) and Lockmann 1/12 tires will fit.

Car balance is easy. Move weight to the back unless it starts to wheelstand. Too much weight in the front will cause an overstuck/twitchy sensation.

WOW AHR43!!! Great info!!! And nice logical thinking on battery placement Paul Songas!!!
Well, it sucks the GMS dont have a showroom in Illinois, cuz iam 15min. away from GMS in Mt. Vernon. If he did have a showroom or actual shop, ill be over there 3 times a week!
Well, before i make the carbon fiber chassis, iam building a aluminum plate version first, thats actually in the shop now! I hope to have a protoype by Wen. nite, and iam hopefully gonna test it Thus.! Ill be trying battery placement, shock adjustments, slipper adjustments, ride height. Lets hope the protoype works out good before i purchase the carbon fiber cuz its EXPENSIVE!!!

I would get rid of the slipper if your tranny has all metal gears. The rear shocks should sqaud on takeoff untill the driveshafts are parallel with eachother.

i think a brushless option would be a good idea cause a 15-20t motor isnt gonna satisfy many people speed wise.

Why do you say take out the slipper??? What would it hurt???
And ya a brushless system would be nice, but some people cant afford 1 brushless system let alone 5!

Well with the new Castle creation sidewinder, brushless is affordable now. If that is still too much, then you can always install the 1/18 scale brushless systems which are even cheaper and still fast enough to dragrace with. You just need to make a motor adapter.