gokemidoro

Hey, all!

I just built and tested a JRXS-R, and it drifts FANTASTIC!

In fact, it outdoes the TA05 VDF for smoothness and transition. The chassis has a few idiosyncrasies, but all-in-all, a great platform for anyone looking for a high-end chassis (right now, at certain outlets, it can be had for less than $200!).
Steering is tight, and since it's belt-drive, VERY quiet. The all-up weight is lower than the VDF as well.

Anyone with questions, queriesor criticisms, go ahead.

Why this chassis has not caught on with the drift community is a mystery.

Here is a link for those who don't know which chassis this is...

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...rodID=LOSK0256

jakerz04

I am getting one of these tomorrow with 2.4ghz and brushless tomorrow with new everything and never used off of a friend and i came to this section of the forums to ask on how this thing drifts, and to my utter suprise this was sitting at the top all i need is a battery

gokemidoro

Hey, alright!! I think you'll be really pleased with it. I am!!

A couple of things you may find of help.....

If you are getting a hard-case LiPo for it, you'll need to shave the top end sides of the battery case closest to the motor-the pulleys rub on the case. Also, the rear end of the battery floorplate will have to be shimmed by about 1/16th of an inch, and will sit that much lower than the bottom of the chassis, so the battery will fit properly. Make sure the battery has the banana plugs that plug into the corners of the case- The chassis won't take any other kind, without some modification. I also soldered banana plugs to the ESC power wires, so I could just plug them right into the battery, rather than mess around with a harness, since the ESC is right behind the steering bellcranks, and the top plate is made to allow the plugs to go into the battery, right there, as well. The wires just make a 180 loop, right down onto the battery ports!.

Oh, put 1/2 Oz of lead weight on the front, right behind the forward pivot block. There's a small spot that's perfect for the flat 1/4 Oz. weights. Stack two of them, and you're good. This evens out front/rear weight ratio to 50/50.

If you have a few bucks left, get the front one-way unit for it, if it doesn't already have it installed (I surmise your friend already built it), and lock the rear diff!

If you PM me, I can give you my setups for it, because there are a lot! You can tune to your style from there! Hey, man, have fun with it!!

jakerz04

alright, it has carpet racer tires on it , i saw in a related thread these are good drift tireshttp://cgi.ebay.com/16-Sushi-DRIFT-R...ht_8654wt_1139and idk what it means to lock the diff, i wont have to worry about lipo until at least a few months after xmas, and what is the front one way unit?

gokemidoro

Dude, maybe you better PM me.

joeyhatch11

PM's are nice and more direct but for someone else with the same questions, the answers will be lost. Best to post everything on the thread to help others out pimpin.

gokemidoro

Sorry, joeyhatch11,

The PM's were just about the battery issue and front one-way. Nothing special.

Do you have any questions? I'm REALLY lovin' my JRXS-R! It drifts better than my VDF, and that says a lot, because my VDF drifts pretty well! The quality of the parts is top-notch, and talk about SMOOOOTH!

I may sell my VDF and get another JRXS-R!

kms7852

YES!! I JUST GOT JRX-S TYPE R. BUILDING IT NOW I AM SO EXCITEDDDD.

I got a sway bar and Front one way.

Bought some Sushi tires on as well...

Making the shocks was pain in the ... a

BUT, The fact it drifts better than VDF makes me soooo excited!

What body are you using?

gokemidoro

I think you'll love yours as much as I love mine! It DOES drift better thanmy VDF!

BTW, don't really need the swaybars. Shocks were an SOB, weren't they?

I have an HPISaleen Mustang that's waiting for paint- It's been raining here, where I live, so I can't really do anything until it stops.

kms7852

Saleen Mustang on that Chassis sound legittt!

I am planning on getting BMW M3 GT 2009 Tamiya Or Subaru WRC 2008 Hatchback Style and make it into Ken Block Monster car.

I just can't wait to build the kit all!

I got some 6mm offset wheels to fit this body I have in the picture!

I used this body on my old HPI RS4 Nitro car

gokemidoro

That Beemer's SWEEEEET! I like the paint you did.

BTW, did you get 3mm offsets for the front? They'll fit better if the body you're using is narrower in front, which most bodies are.

Once I do get to paint the Saleen, I'll post in the "post a pic of your drifter" thread. You should do same!

kms7852

I will definitely. I will let you know as soon as I finish building the kit. I don't have a radio yet so I need to save up around 100 bucks for 2.4ghz radio and servo so it will indeed take me some time.

gokemidoro

No sweat on the wait......The first day you drift will be sweet!

Just take your time on the build, and you'll be up and running in no time!

BTW, Traxxas makes a good, inexpensive 2.4 Ghz radio for around $70-80! It doesn't have a lot of adjustments, but if the ESC/Motor combo you get is adjustable, it won't matter. Also, make sure the servo you get is a fast one- .13 Ms or faster. It will make controlling your turn-ins easier.

Let us know if you run into any problems.

gokemidoro

Well, it appears that the JRXS-R is out-of-stock everywhere but Losi, and they're asking $439 for it.

For those who have the chassis, good drifting!

For those who missed out, you're missing an experience you won't find with any other chassis. The JRXS-R isn't the simplest to make drift well, but you don't need a laundry list of option parts to do so. Almost everything you need is already in the box!A front one-way diff is the only option part that matters.

I would still like to hear from anyone with this chassis!

kms7852

Hahaha I went into Horizon Hobbies then JRX-S Type R was gone!

scrofcheck

For those of you still interested in purchasing a JRX A Main has them in stock. I just ordered one this week . It's supposed to arrive this Tues. Hope this helps.. Steve

gokemidoro

Got a link? I went to their site, and couldn't find it. If it is still available somewhere for a good price, I'd like to get another one. It's an excellent drifter!!!

kstmRYD

hey gokemidoro - you got me interested in this chassis. I'm getting ready to get a Yokomo DRB but I'm really thinking twice about laying out that kind of cash right now. I need another chassis just to kick around while I lay up my VDF for work.

I've been looking for the JRX-S everywhere and can't find one, either out of stock or discontinued. Let me know if you find a place that has them other than Lose for 4 bills. If I have to pay 4 bills for it I might as well go all the way and get the DRB.

gokemidoro

I hear you on the cost of the DRB!!

Everywhere I've looked the JRXS-R is out-of-stock, and I looked up A-Main, but couldn't find it. You might want to give it a try, I may have overlooked something.

Yah, The JRXS-R is really made for tight tracks. I can swing it around in REALLY small areas. It's response to input is smooth to just a tiny bit twitchy.

I LOVEit's front LCD's. The VDF has chatter coming from it's CVD's, and the radius I had to adjust to a point where it doesn't chatter. The JRXS-R has no such trouble. I'm really thinking of increasing it's radius another degree or two, as it looks to be able to handle more than the stops provide!

The WHOLEchassis is adjustable. I mean that. There are adjustments EVERYWHERE! I'm still trying to figure it all out, but what I've got so far really works well.

One bad thing- it uses SAE hardware. It's all high quality, but now I have to go get new SAE wrenches!

gonggongboy

I got the JRX-S PRO with a 13.5t novak system off of ebay for $150... I havent been able to run it due to the batteries not fitting. What batteries do you run? Im planning on running a 2S 4000mah 40C lipo from Flightmax with a 3.5t motor. Cant what to see what it does... Should have no problem laying rubber. All it needs to be finished now is a custom body and ill be turning heads like no other

kms7852

I use Hobby People brand 7.4V 5000Mah 35C hardcase one. I had to do two little mods to make it fit though. I had to dremel (I used a drill with a grinding stone) a little bit of carbon fiber top plate to make the bullet connectors go in the battery.

kms7852

Something to share about the carbon top plate as well. If you do not want to dremel and sick of the aluminum support of the top plate you can use this option part to make it fit. I personally don't have it but seems like a good investment

gonggongboy

Couldnt you just shim the top plate up a little to clear the battery better? What is hitting the battery, i havent tried to fit any lipos in the car? From what i here, everyone running lipo has had to grind the center bulkhead some to fit the battery.

kms7852

I didn't have to grind the center bulkhead or anything... What do you mean shim the top plate? Not really possible because the top plate is partially blocking the lipo and bullet connector hole... so you have to grind like 1mm to open that hole so you can fit the bullet connector in.

gokemidoro

I had to shim the battery plate in the two rear screw locations, so the plate didn't bulge once it was bolted on. About 1/16th of an inch did it. The rear of the battery plate sits a little lower than the bottom of the chassis, but not so much that it is a problem. Better than grinding on the bulkheads!! I just used two 1/16th inch thick plastic washers and CA'ed them to the two rear screw holes on the top side of the plate.

The pulleys on either side also rub on the battery case, if you are using hardcase LiPos. I just ground off a little plastic from the sides of the corners of the rear of the battery caseto clear. Those batteries are solely for the JRXS-R, so it's all good.

I think what kms7852 is talking about is the balancer plug. The hole in the stock top plate isn't really large enough to allow the plug to seat correctly, so enlarging it or getting that aftermarket top plate is a good idea. Switching out batteries is a bear, because you have to unscrew the battery plate every time. It IS a race chassis, after all.

Other things I found helpful are using the "gangster" stance, where the front end is higher than the rear, and using soft springs in front. 35 Wt. oil works well in the front shocks. One ounce of lead weight attached to the front also evens out the weight balance well, too. I used four Losi 1/4 Oz. lead squares stacked together and mounted them behind the front pivot block and in front of the chevron-shaped hole in the chassis plate. It's a perfect fit!