Hi guys, after a bit of reading here, and elsewhere on the forums It seems the tt-01 is a popular choice for drifting!

I have a few questions if that's ok

i've seen this:

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/TAM58451.html


a 'drift spec' version of the car -
is this needed if i want to drift.. and what's the difference between that and say this one:

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/TAM58451.html

on another sitehttp://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-n...products/35880

it says about the drift spec features (<br type="_moz" />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153); font-family: Arial; "><ul>[*]Special suspension tuning[*]RS-540 Sport-Tuned motor[*]Aluminum heat sink[*]CVA mini shock dampers[*]Soft springs[*]Adjustable upper arms.[/list]</span>which i guess seem to help, and on that site its not too much more expensive than a standard version it seems

anyway i'm rambling now -
do you think i'm looking at the right car to mess around with and practice drifting with?

thanks for your time

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Yes, I have a TT01E and it drifts great. It's good to start off with out of the box, after locking the rear diff. There's loads of hop ups and options for it and you can CS it with some tinkering.

You may aswell get the drift one because you'd most likely be buying the hop ups it comes with if you got a non-drift one. The BMW one costs a few quid more because those shells are not so common. I bought mine as a kit and it was a lot cheaper.

You can find other cars at a similar price and I'd wholeheartedly recommend spending some more cash on a TA05 or TB03 if you plan to be RC drifting for a while, but if you don't want to pay the extra the TT is a great beginner chassis. If you don't mind waiting for postage you could get it a lot cheaper from HK or China. Returns or support would then be a lot more messing about though.

eBay link

I reckon £200 is a lot for a TT01 though. Probably spent £150 for mine inc. batteries, charger, radio etc. I already had a shell though and that M3 is pretty awesome!!

hey woody, <div>i just ordered the http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-sea...c-p-32655.html</div><div>so its a tt01ed!</div><div>im excited </div><div>
</div><div>im scared about having to paint it though lol! but its good because i'd like to buy a couple of body shells and do a simple nice paint job </div><div>
</div><div>do you use 190mm bodyshells?</div><div>or are the 200mm ones ok to pu on if you mod the rims (something like that ;P)</div>

hey scope, i just bought mine yesterday...and i was scared about painting as well. but it turns out to be pretty easy... check this out...its my first body..
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that looks good!<div>the paint colour is vibrant!</div><div>did you use any guides or anything?</div>

Get the TT01ED. It has the better steering system over the older standard TT01 design as well as a better motor mount and other enhanced bits....hence the "E".

First thing you need to do while putting it together is to lock the rear diff using hot glue. If at a later stage you decide to use the car for racing you can just open the diff and take the dried glue out as it does not stick permanently but just enought to hold the gears in place without them moving!
You may also want to try locking the front as well

The motor and esc will be good to get you going but you will want to look at changing the gearing to get the most out of it. Get the spur gear set 55T/58T as well as the 24T/25T AV pinion gear set and use either the 24/58 or 25/55. You will have to try both and see what works for you in terms of run time vs. motor heat vs. drivability. The standard kit pionion and spur will not last long as they are very soft materials and were only designed to be run on the stock silver can motor. Some of the new TT01E kits (Merc 190E EVOII and CRZ) have the reinforced 61T spur but the 19T pinion is still very soft and wears quickly!
Use the provided heatsink with the sport tuned as well!

Also remember to never use grease on the pinion and spur!!!!!!!!

Next you should look at the aluminium prop shaft and cup joint set. This will transfer power from the motor to the front and rear diff more efficiently as the standard plastic part deforms and warps under high rpm.

The super drift tech tyres that you get with the ED kits are better than the older rubber drift tyres so you don't need anything else here. You also have oil shocks, bearings and adjustable upper suspension arms with the "D" kits so no need to get these later.

Ands thats really all you need to have a really good drift platform to start you off in the exciting world of drifting!

You can also look at the toe-in rear uprights which may help a little with transitions but not a neccessity from the onset. If you want the bling then go for the aluminium steering arms and link but it really is not worth the extra $50+ in performance. You could look at just buying four 850 bearings for the steering arms as an upgrade and that will cost a lot less with the same results!

Don't get the metal motor mount as it will just transfer the heat to the chassis and if you run a hot motor will just melt the chassis in that area and the fit of the mount will be sloppy. Just use the provided cardboard type piece between the motor and mount. When you upgrade to a more powerful motor or brushless remember to run a a heatsink with fan on the motor to keep it cool as there is not much airflow under the chassis when drifting.

I have been drifting on and off for around five years now and have recently finished putting my seventh TT01 together and still enjoy it! They are fun to work on and easy to maintain, while parts don't cost and arm and a leg when replacement and repairs are required.

Hope this all helps

no guides man...just the instruction book that came with the set. i didnt think it would be so easy. its pretty bad *****