Hello, well I have a TC3. Its been a really long time since ive actually used it/ rc in general. And i suddenly have the urge to start up again. Before i stopped, i bought a TC3 off of someone I met because i wanted to get into drifting, and used it for about a 2 months or so drifting for fun in my garage. It has pretty nice motor/ battery so im not worried about that stuff. But i was wondering, should i upgrade to carbon fiber chassis or graphite or anything like that? How much would a conversion kit be, and is it difficult to put together or could I do it no problem? Is there anything else worth upgrading for drifting?

I've been through the same deal with my TT01. Graphite makes it seem more professional.. custom.. expensive... but it's really not worth it. If you're going to build a counter-steer drifter, most people would start with a belt driven chassis. Otherwise, you could by new gears and modify the steering. Besides that, just keep having fun

hmm, thanks for your input. also, what about tweaking things, like what are the main things i should tweak to have better performance in drifting?

Lock the rear diff and modify the steering angle - but that's all based on preference and what you plan on using it for. Do you still use it for grip driving?

Uhm, no i don't. I'm not really into the onroad racing and stuff, just drift for this car so yeh (:

Well locking the rear diff means that both rear wheels must spin equally. This means one wheel will lose traction, causing the other wheel to also. This makes it easier to slide out the rear end.

Counter steer modifications include increasing steering angle and changing gears.
Gears: CS Mods change the drive gears so that more power goes to the rear wheels. You will often see this referenced as a number or percentage. 50%, or 150% countersteer means that there is 50% more power going to the rear than the front. Similar to full-size cars, this allows more realistic "counter steer" drifting in which the steering is able to turn in the opposite direction for a consistent period. This modification is more popular on belt drive cars due to it being easier to swap gears.

Steering angle: To assist counter steering, sometimes the front arms are modified to allow more steering angle. This means it will be able to exit a drift without spinning out while continuing at high speed.

Most other vehicle modifications are purely cosmetic.

Hope this helps <br type="_moz"/>

nice input

Do you know if there are any guides for something like this? All i can find is kits that are belt driven. Starting to think if it is worth it to change chasis to belt driven lol. cant find anything for tc3 CS

In short... yes.

I have not upgraded to a belt drive chassis as I am broke - but If I weren't and I should do this as my name suggest- I would purchase a belt driven chassis.

It is possible with custom work, however for now just enjoy your car and make it look cool. Maybe lock your rear diff (which you can do for free) and have fun until you upgrade <br type="_moz"/>

yeh, also about the locking rear diff. i read that instead i can just buy a spool. think i might do that. Thanks for your help man, (:


Also one way diff for front.
and set my camber to 0. Think that is all im going to do for now i guess.

I'm going to subscribe to this thread beacuse I have to have a TC3 that I want to turn into a drifter. I have been away for a while as well, so long in fact transmitters had long shinny rods sticking out of the top of them and recievers had a 3 foot wire.

All you really need is drift tires... PVC pipe or tape!

Hi may I ask a question here too please? I also have a TC3 and I would like to start drifting with it... Anyway you talk about "locking the rear diff means that both rear wheels must spin equally." Sounds great! How do I do that? ALSO I here it is good to have a oneway front diff. Is that true? Even if you are locking the rear or is this the same thing... confused a bit...

Yes the rear diff is better when locked for drifting as you stated, the wheels spin equally. You can do that by taking out your diff, take out the ball bearings, and put the diff back together without the balls in it, tighten it up pretty tight, and make sure you cant spin the diff by hand. It would then be locked, so it cant spin seperately.

Yes the front one way is good to have, it gives you sort of an "e-Brake" effect. It's used to help cornering and such, when drifting it makes it better to do transitions, like drifting to one side then quickly drifting to the opposite side. It isnt a MUST, but most people prefer it, if you have a technical track/course with fast turning then it is alot better. I have one also.

You can also lock the front and the rear instead of having front oneway front, with locked rear. The second option is what most people use, and in general better. I have seen and read about some people using both locked, but i would go with the front one way. After that, you can pretty much just slap on drift tyres and get drifting xD.

You don't need to lock the diff's at all really.. just if you plan on having a more dedicated drifter.

And I believe the first option needs a ball diff, but I'm not familiar with a TC3.... the time I locked mine I used silly putty.

Other than that sounds good.<br type="_moz"/>

Dont go to crazy on things u read on the internet focus on thing u want from it.

How does it drift for ur style?
Can u drift yet?
are u high speed drifting or slow speed.
Do u need more rotation
do u need more front grip

Locked rear diff and maby 50g weight up front should be all u need

Eaysest way to lok a ball diff is dissamble it, cut 2 peices of cardboard the exact same size as the thrust washer. reassemble with the cardboard between the balls and the washer. simple fix and easy to undo

I was able to find, for a great price too, both the oneway and the locked rear diffs on ebay NIB. So I was pretty happy. The 50G weight up front are you using the sticky weights PhMaximus?
Thnak you,

Chaseman

yes i also have the tc3 model and yours looks scarily similar to mine but as you can tell by the name im dirt poor and i allready made some pvc drifters but i currently am runnin a reedy radon 30,000 rpm engine through an older lrp digital esc and an unbranded servo and to top it all off a hpi rf-40 reciever witch i took from my trusty mini recon that i swapped out for a 27mhz [dont tell momma] ha but this setup seems to work but i also have an older triad motor? and was wonderin what setup youre runnin and how that performs for you and what body you have/want to put on it