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newbie's Ongoing Madspeed Drift king and overall question thread

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newbie's Ongoing Madspeed Drift king and overall question thread

Old 09-08-2013, 02:26 PM
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subadubaru
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Default newbie's Ongoing Madspeed Drift king and overall question thread

Im going to use this as an ongoing question thread... since i have gotten my car i have been messing with it and found that everytime i play with it a new question arises and i dont think making 10,000,000 threads is going to help anyone.

how do i clean my rc car and is it safe or a good idea to oil it?
- i have been noticing it is getting very dirty every time i mess with it and already notice its performance diminishing as in like a wheel spinning slower than another like the c-hub is getting jammed with fine dirt and whatnot... is compressed air and pulling it apart good enough?

what kind of suspension setting do most of you use?
- currently i have:
- ~1 degree neg camber rear
- ~2 degree neg camber front
- ~1 degree neg toe in front
- cannot adjust rear toe with looks to be ~ 1-2 degree pos toe
- preload spacers all around with stiffer rears than the front

for the madspeed is there a faster steering servo i could run? would it be beneficial? my current is an nd1003

is it worth it to buy all the aluminum/carbon parts i can for the car?

thanks,
Trevor

Last edited by subadubaru; 09-08-2013 at 02:55 PM.
Old 09-08-2013, 02:28 PM
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subadubaru
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also i have been wondering about diffs and whatnot... i know that a 1 way front diff is better for drifting however does not allow for the front wheels to break which in turn for a grip car is semi bad unless you know how to control your braking coming into a corner which will in time be faster since you can get on the throttle earlier in the turn and carry your speed throughout.... so that is a must for me... but what about these solid axles? what is the difference?
Old 09-08-2013, 04:16 PM
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ToraKitsu
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1) It's always wise to drift in a clean area. All the vids you see on Youtube where they are doing amazing drifts are ALWAYS done on clean surfaces. The dirt and grime is kept to a minimum, and clean up is easier, and less frequent.

2) The only way to clean an RC chassis is to disassemble it to a certain point, so that you can also perform maintenance on it, at the same time. It's why most accomplished drifters always build their chassis from kits. They know their chassis inside and out, because they built it.

3) If parts are binding or otherwise not operating smoothly, disassembly, and thorough cleaning with solvents and rags (compressed air is NOT enough) and re-lubing is in order. making sure, when re-assembling, that parts aren't dripping lube is well-advised (they should be lubed, but dry to the touch).

As for option parts, it's up to you, how far you want to go, but consider that if you want to "upgrade" to a better/smoother/more advanced chassis, it would be better to save for that, rather than spend $$$$$$ on a chassis you will eventually outgrow. The Madspeed is an entry-level chassis, and many RC drifters just upgrade to a more advanced chassis.

Yes, a faster servo would definitely help your drifting, and it doesn't matter what company you get it from, just make sure it's digital, and has a transit speed of .10 or faster. The faster, the better.

A front spool is not as efficient as a front one-way, and though the chassis will still have brakes and reverse with a spool, tire wear will also be a concern, and then there is "chatter" when cornering (which is also where the tire wear comes from), which actually slows the chassis as it enters a corner, regardless of how much brake used. The front one-way drives both front wheels independently, so there is no "chatter," and no scrubbing of speed, in corners. The spool is only good, in the rear end, on a drifter.
For drift, a front one-way IMPROVES drift manners of the chassis it's mounted in, and as a seasoned drifter (been at it for going on eight years...), I don't buy a chassis, unless it has a one-way available for it. If the chassis is CS'ed, it almost REQUIRES a front one-way.

On adjustments, that's up to the chassis. When refining a chassis to drift well, it's not what the driver wants, but what works for the chassis. I have chassis that work best with "0" camber, no toe, soft front springs, stiff rear springs, and yet, I have others with adjustments that required certain option parts to obtain them, like 10 degrees caster, and carbon shock towers with more mounting positions to refine suspension settings, among others.

Last edited by ToraKitsu; 09-08-2013 at 04:51 PM.
Old 09-08-2013, 05:27 PM
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subadubaru
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So what would be a good advanced complete chassis?
Old 09-08-2013, 06:12 PM
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subadubaru
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ive been looking at the sakura d3 cs... is that a good one?

and i was thinking and this may get me some hell but would i be able to run my current motor and esc on that? that way i could run it currently without having to buy a whole bunch of stuff for it and i can actually mess with it until i can upgrade to a brushless motor and esc?.
Old 09-08-2013, 07:17 PM
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ToraKitsu
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The D3 is a heavily CS'ed chassis. I'm not sure you would find it either easy to drift or even learn on. Some folk would say to learn CS from the beginning, and there's a lot of opinion about this, but I would counsel to start with 50/50, get proficient with that, then move on to CS. I went seven years before even considering a CS'ed chassis, and just CS'ed one of my 50/50 chassis (Tamiya VDF), only recently. The D3 is also needlessly complicated, and not a very good choice for a novice.

As far as recommendations for an "advanced" chassis, that's up to you. I won't make any recommendations, aside from telling you to make the decision whether you are going with a belt drive, or shaft drive, but be aware...."advanced" shaft drives are VERY few, and parts to CS them are even more rare. The only one I know of currently, that can be CS'ed easily, is the Tamiya TB03, and that chassis will cost a MINT to do so.
Belt drives are much more prevalent, and easier to CS, but you will have to restrict your drifting to smooth, clean areas, and by their design, belt drives require much more attention to adjustments and maintenance cycles.

If you do your shopping primarily online, you can get just about anything you want, that's within your budget, and there are some good choices, most from Tamiya, that you can start with, that won't cost much, but be ready to shell out at the VERY LEAST, $400, for the chassis and attendant electronics (aside from the power system, which you say you want to re-use).

On the power system - you would be well advised to stay with something close to a 17.5T brushless, or 17T brushed. Anything faster than those will make drifting harder, and the faster it is, the more difficult drifting will be. Smoothness is what you are after, and the lower-RPM systems are the smoothest. I, myself run nothing faster than a 13.5T system, and that is in a chassis that is dual-purpose drift and gymkhana.
Old 09-09-2013, 02:20 AM
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I started with this one.

Mission D A lot of people say that was a crap. So, I changed some parts and The car is better each day. I'm learning a lot with it.

link for the car in HK.

Now I bought A some metal parts for it and A CS with 2.0 and an One-way diff.

I'll add new videos about it. I like the car, Is cheap, copy of a Yokomo DRB, and you can use the original parts of yokomo on it. Like in this video

I don't like the idea of spend a lot of money in something that i'm starting.

Regards,
Succar
Old 09-09-2013, 02:08 PM
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subadubaru
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Well anyone got an opinion on the tamiya TT01?
Old 09-09-2013, 04:30 PM
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ToraKitsu
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The TT01 isn't any more "advanced" than the Madspeed, and in fact, the Madspeed already has parts on it that are considered option parts on the TT01.
It IS one of the oldest novice-level chassis Tamiya has, and has an extensive list of suppliers of option parts, but, as mentioned, is no better, really, than what you already have.

If you really are looking for recommendations, I can offer a couple up for you, that will keep you going, and are a step or two above what you have:

Ofna JL10e. There are two versions - a TC model, and a belt-driven drift model. The TC model is superior, in that it is manufactured to better standards than the drift model, which has a "cobby" look to it. The TC model also has a spool and one-way available for it, and if you're a little adventurous, there is also the ABC Hobby Genetic. The Genetic is an "M" class chassis, meaning it is smaller in size than a "standard" 1/10th scale chassis (1/12th), but all the option parts that fit the JL10e TC will also fit the Genetic.
The Genetic is also somewhat of a challenge to drift smoothly. I have modded one to drift, and it does well, with the right components, but can be "twitchy," under hamfisted drifting technique. All the models listed are around $130, with the exception of the Genetic, which will be closer to $200, but all are "rollers," meaning they are prebuilt, without electronics.

Tamiya TA06. This one also has a spool and one-way available, and comes as a kit. The "base" model is a great starting point for a drifter, and I also have one of these, and can attest to their performance, though mine is now fully-kitted with a carbon chassis kit from RSector.

3Racing also makes the Sakura XI, which is also a great chassis to start with, that can be "drifterized" easily, and the cost is in line with the D3, or you can go with the Zero, which is a bit older, but just as easily made a drifter, and as inexpensive, as well. Both also have spools and one-ways available for them.

Stay far away from clones. Especially those made in China. These use inferior materials, and are very prone to breakage and other problems. The easiest way you can tell a clone is, if the price seems too good to be true, it's probably a clone. The only clones that "seem" to be of better quality are those with aluminum components from R2 Hobby. The all-plastic ones are crap, from what I understand, but the OTA R31 clones seem to be good, as I have not seen nor heard much negative about them.

Hope this helps you. I'd rather you got deeper into the drift-bug, but don't want you to be disappointed, by making a bad purchase, which is a distinct possibility, these days.

Last edited by ToraKitsu; 09-09-2013 at 05:41 PM.
Old 09-09-2013, 05:20 PM
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subadubaru
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yeah i spoke to a guy at my local hobby-shop and he really recommended that i get the TA05IFS. He said the same thing about the TT-01 and the D3.
he salso aid that overall it was going to be better for grip and easily drift-able. and of course he was trying to get a sale because they have them on sale as a kit car for $150
Old 09-09-2013, 05:36 PM
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ToraKitsu
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$150 for the IFS?
That's a pretty good price. Snatch one up.

One thing, however.....The IFS is difficult to tune precisely, so it's best to just toss soft springs up front (the stock springs won't suffice), and call it good for drift (use preload to set ride height). Otherwise, it's a Tamiya, and there are TONS of option parts available for it, when you're ready.

Last edited by ToraKitsu; 09-09-2013 at 05:39 PM.
Old 09-10-2013, 12:07 PM
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subadubaru
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probably going to pick up the ifs... i have been looking at option parts on rc mart and been finding it difficult to find the parts specifically for the IFS... are there many parts that are just for the IFS or are a lot of them interchangeable between other TA05's?

and im also looking at getting this servo
http://www.rcmart.com/feetech-profil...Path=1099_1025
but there are so many options how do i choose the right one? ive never dealt this much into it all my traxxis servos have been fine for what i was doing

Last edited by subadubaru; 09-10-2013 at 12:19 PM.
Old 09-10-2013, 12:52 PM
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ToraKitsu
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Originally Posted by subadubaru
probably going to pick up the ifs... i have been looking at option parts on rc mart and been finding it difficult to find the parts specifically for the IFS... are there many parts that are just for the IFS or are a lot of them interchangeable between other TA05's?

and im also looking at getting this servo
http://www.rcmart.com/feetech-profil...Path=1099_1025
but there are so many options how do i choose the right one? ive never dealt this much into it all my traxxis servos have been fine for what i was doing
With the exception of the parts specific to the IFS system, all other TA05 parts will fit on the IFS model. Tamiya has made it so that most TA05 parts are interchangeable between all models. Any TA05 you get will be that way. So, if you are looking for say....front one-ways, the one for the VDF will fit on the IFS, or if you're looking for say, suspension parts like arms, all TA05 use the exact same ones, and even some Tamiya models that aren't TA05 use them! The TA05 series is a great start, since tons of companies make option and replacement parts for them.

Tamiya also charges quite a bit for their parts (but they are top-notch quality), so if you are looking for other options, 3Racing makes a gangload of parts for the TA05 series, and some specific to the IFS. I trust 3Racing parts, and have some on my TA05's, myself. They are as good as Tamiya parts, and are MUCH less expensive.

The servo is very suitable! It's light, a lo-pro (low-profile), and with a .07 transit speed, it will more than suffice for drift or grip. Traxxas servos are good, but in very limited applications. I use them in my "M" class chassis, and they do well, but are too slow for drift, or grip driving faster than stock class.
For drift, the differences are dramatic. I used slower servos (.14, .15) when I first started drifting, and when I mounted a faster one that is .09, the ease with which it improved control was surprising! It is now why I don't recommend anything slower than .10.
Old 09-10-2013, 01:20 PM
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subadubaru
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ok so i have narrowed it down... lol
Sakura D3
Sakura XI
Tamiya TA05
Tamiya TA06

overall i think the XI is probably the best in my price range currently and it looks like there are a plethora of parts for it or the TA05 since its on sale. however wanted to get your opinions on what would be a good chassis that will keep me going for quite a while. basically i want something i can grow into and not grow out of too quickly

Last edited by subadubaru; 09-10-2013 at 01:27 PM.
Old 09-10-2013, 01:44 PM
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To be quite honest, ANY of those would be a great choice (with the exception of the D3). As much as I like the D3, I probably will never get one, based solely on it's overcomplication. It has too many belts, the belt adjustment feature is too complicated and difficult to adjust, it also doesn't come with the requisite parts to make it complete, and it's balance is waaaay off.

The Sakura XI is the popular chassis right now, and places like TQRC Racing (where I go for almost all my parts) are stocking tons of parts for it.

The TA05 is one of Tamiya's longest running models, and any TA05 model will be good. There are a few carbon chassis kits available for just about all TA05 models, and the TA05 is one of the best all-around chassis for drift and grip driving.

The TA06 departs from the TA05 series, and there's not much from a TA05 that will fit a TA06, apart from some suspension parts, but the TA06 is perfectly balanced, right from the start, and requires the fewest option parts to make it competitive. As a drifter, it requires only a spool for the rear, front one-way for the front, but has an issue with motor fitment - some BL motors will not fit it, based on it's rather small motor bay. Brushed motors will all fit, but it also restricts gearing choices, as well, but if you use it for drift, that little problem won't be an issue, since lower gearing is what should be used, anyway.
The TA06 also now has two or three carbon chassis kits available for it. I have the RSector kit, and it's probably the best of the lot.

The above choices (with the exception of the D3) are all interchangeable from drift to grip and back again, by swapping a few parts, and are all able to be CS'ed like the D3, when you are comfortable enough to try it. Modding for CS will take some study, as belts and pulleys need to be replaced with suitable sizes to accomplish CS, but to do so doesn't take much more than that, so any of them will grow with you, since belts and pulleys are all pretty much standardized, and Tamiya themselves, make pulleys and belts from other models, that will do the job. 3Racing also does, so the XI can be CS'ed, as well.
Old 09-10-2013, 02:46 PM
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subadubaru
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Wow so much knowledge! I think I am def leaning more towards the Sakura XI. The price is appealing and I love the look and it seems to have lots of option parts! I will probably order it and then just swap my current motor, esc and get the above servo, and a one way and call it good until I start breaking stuff and slowly swap it out for aluminum parts!
Old 09-10-2013, 06:23 PM
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The XI is a great starter for you!

As stated, it has a bunch of option parts, and all can be had from TQRC (those that aren't out-of-stock, it IS the popular chassis right now, after all!), which have the lower pricing of many online vendors, domestically. I've also visited their shop/track, and it would surprise you to see just how small the room they do all their parts orders from! It's a hole in the wall!

As for the better parts for the XI, the front one-way is a good start, as is a spool for the rear, and getting many of the main chassis parts that are plastic replaced with carbon or aluminum parts would be adviseable. There is nothing wrong with those plastic parts, but if durability is a concern (or just longevity, since on-road chassis aren't jumped or otherwise abused, unless you insist on running on filthy/rough surfaces consistently), aluminum parts for the main chassis are a good idea. They also make the chassis look purty, which would urge you to treat it better!

Yah, I've been in on-road for some years, and though I'm no expert, I have had a number of chassis (some good, some great, some trash), and am constantly improving them. As a matter of fact, I just made an order with TQRC this morning! I'm currently working on some of my "M" class chassis (just ordered a carbon chassis conversion kit for one), since there isn't a good drift chassis to get, right now. I have two chassis that are my premiere drift chassis to run, and both are VERY similar. The TA06/RSector is one of them, but the TA06 is actually somewhat of a copy of Losi's JRXS Type "R," which is the other one. Both have the center battery mounting/rear-mid-motor arrangement, but unfortunately, the JRXS-R is no longer available.
Really is a shame, since the JRXS-R is F-A-S-T as grip chassis, and near-perfectly balanced, as a drift chassis.

If you get further into drift, and want another chassis (you can't have enough of them, after all! ), I recommend the TA06, since you can't beg, borrow or steal a JRXS-R any longer. You also should, when you get closer to CS'ing, check out a vendor on Ebay called "kaw218." He sells nothing but CS parts for various manufacture RC chassis, and I get my CS stuff from him.
Old 09-11-2013, 03:22 PM
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subadubaru
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ok sweet i will definitely keep that in mind and check them out!

so when looking at bodies where is the best place to go for a wide variety of bodies... makes and manufacturers to stay away from?(more or less a one stop shop if you will)
im looking for something like a toyota trueno, s14, subaru, 2000 GT-R or r34 body, but want something i can attach light buckets to.
also what a good light kit?
Old 09-11-2013, 04:23 PM
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That's something you'll have to research. I, myself use Tower Hobbies for all but my "M" class bodies (TQRC for that), and since I'm a member of the "super savers club," I can usually get them fairly inexpensively, if I time it right, with their "percentage off" offers and free shipping. Oh, btw, TQRC also forgoes shipping on all orders above $100.

I do know that Tower stocks pretty much everything HPI and Tamiya makes, body-wise. They stock the bodies you want, and they also have detail kits and light kits. There is a detail kit for the Trueno with flip-up light buckets Tower sells, as well. As for buckets for the others....you may have to make them, from sheet lexan.

I just posted a thread on my "M" class chassis in the on-road section today! I might do the same for my drift chassis, so you can see what the JRXS-R looks like, and how close the TA06 is, in design to it. Those two, to me, are the best-designed chassis there are, IMO.
Old 09-12-2013, 10:20 AM
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subadubaru
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i just happened to be browsing TQRC's website and noticed there seems to be a difference bertween the Sakura XI and the Sakura XIS do you know the difference?
Old 09-12-2013, 10:44 AM
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ToraKitsu
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I went to TQRC's site, and see only the D3, Zero and XI Sport.

If there is any difference, it would be the sport has an FRP chassis, rather than a plastic or carbon chassis. Fiber-Reinforced Plastic chassis are more durable, and has a bit more flex, than a carbon chassis and are slightly more durable than a plastic chassis. FRP chassis are also not electrical conductants, so you won't get "glitching" with them, as some servos do, when mounted on carbon chassis.

I have a couple of chassis made from FRP, and have not had any problems with them. They aren't as nice as carbon chassis, but they work well, and are at least a step-up from plastic chassis.

Last edited by ToraKitsu; 09-12-2013 at 10:46 AM.
Old 09-12-2013, 10:58 AM
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subadubaru
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hmm thats weird it shows up on mine
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:22 AM
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Ahhh....I see.

The Zero and XI are two different models. The Zero S is about six years old or more. The XI is the "updated" version, but doesn't share many main chassis parts with the Zero. In TQRC's parts section, you'll see parts specific to both models. Only if you see parts labeled as "XI/Zero" are they compatible with each other. Usually, like Tamiya, only suspension parts are compatible, but the rest between the two won't be.
Old 09-12-2013, 03:13 PM
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subadubaru
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Gotcha! So someone told me today that they would get neither the TA05 not the Sakura XI... They tell me to get the MST MS-01D
Old 09-12-2013, 03:14 PM
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subadubaru
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Isn't that a cs chassis?

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