Recomended electronics
#1
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From: Tampa, FL
I've picked out my car I'll be using as my drifting platform, a Team edition TC3 kit. Now I'm looking at motors, speed controls and servos.
I'll be using my JR XS3 radio system that came with my LST since it has multi-model memory, so preferably JR equipment I'm gonna say. A RS300 or RS310 receiver and servo is what I'll need, but am I looking for a high speed servo or high torque or a mix of the two? I already have a Hitec metal gear high torque servo that's unused, will this work with a drifter-style car or do I need something with high speed?
The next order of agenda is ESC and motor. I have my eyes set on a Reedy KR 12 turn Single modified motor. Is this enough power or should I look for an even more aggressive motor? I don't plan on racing, or even grip driving so I think I might be able to get away with less but am unsure of the relationship between engine power and ease of control. With that motor I'd need something like the Associated IPC Super Sport or Pro Sport ESCs. The idea of reverse is kind of nice though, but I'm wondering if that means sacrificing having brakes which I don't want to do. I like Associated products but would be more than willing to switch brands if Novak, etc, products are clearly better.
The last part then would be the pinion gear. I'm not sure which size to run in a TC3 for drifting, though I assume that depends heavily on the motor used and how many winds it is. I'll have to do a bit of testing I'm assuming.
I'm sure all of you have been through getting started so it would be very helpful to me the get some opinions based on experience, which I don't have with electrics. This will be my very first electric RC vehicle so if I'm missing out on any key aspects let me know. I was starting to look for receiver packs on tower hobbies when I realized the BEC system of most ESC's and receivers allows me to skip this! I'm obviously a nitro-head so cut me some slack.
I'll be using my JR XS3 radio system that came with my LST since it has multi-model memory, so preferably JR equipment I'm gonna say. A RS300 or RS310 receiver and servo is what I'll need, but am I looking for a high speed servo or high torque or a mix of the two? I already have a Hitec metal gear high torque servo that's unused, will this work with a drifter-style car or do I need something with high speed?
The next order of agenda is ESC and motor. I have my eyes set on a Reedy KR 12 turn Single modified motor. Is this enough power or should I look for an even more aggressive motor? I don't plan on racing, or even grip driving so I think I might be able to get away with less but am unsure of the relationship between engine power and ease of control. With that motor I'd need something like the Associated IPC Super Sport or Pro Sport ESCs. The idea of reverse is kind of nice though, but I'm wondering if that means sacrificing having brakes which I don't want to do. I like Associated products but would be more than willing to switch brands if Novak, etc, products are clearly better.
The last part then would be the pinion gear. I'm not sure which size to run in a TC3 for drifting, though I assume that depends heavily on the motor used and how many winds it is. I'll have to do a bit of testing I'm assuming.
I'm sure all of you have been through getting started so it would be very helpful to me the get some opinions based on experience, which I don't have with electrics. This will be my very first electric RC vehicle so if I'm missing out on any key aspects let me know. I was starting to look for receiver packs on tower hobbies when I realized the BEC system of most ESC's and receivers allows me to skip this! I'm obviously a nitro-head so cut me some slack.
#2
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From: Yuma,
AZ
You don't need a low wind motor for drifting, as you want torque not speed. I would suggest a Trinity Monster stock pro 27T motor. Lots of guys like it for drifting. Any stock, 27T motor would be good. Don't go with a low turn 12, you'll only be replacing brushes and cutting coms all the time. As for a speed control, I'd recommend something without reverse or at least a reverse disable feature. Do your homework and get the best for your money.
As for a servo, your Hitec will work fine. Nothing fancy needed in that department.
As for a servo, your Hitec will work fine. Nothing fancy needed in that department.
#3
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From: Tampa, FL
What's the chances, I found a Speed Stocker 27 turn motor in my RC parts box that came with something I bought a while ago! Still in it's packaging. I'll try this and upgrade later if I need more power. Thanks for the tip DriftMaster.
Same with the servo, I've got that ready to go. Seems like I'll be saving a nice chunk of change, cool!
Same with the servo, I've got that ready to go. Seems like I'll be saving a nice chunk of change, cool!
#4
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From: daly city, CA
id say get a brushless set up..wit the cost of electronics and an esc(good name brand stuff) you could probably add and extra $100 or so on a BL set up and save you some money..with the cost of brushes and buying a lathe to cut the coms...i had the regular brushed set up before and mayn was that a head ache...(which is why i started gettin into nitro)
#5
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From: Tampa, FL
I got my car today, not the exact one I was looking for but the TC3 racing kit from my hobby shop. I got a good deal and started building it tonight. I'm mostly done with the chassis, just waiting till I can figure out my electronics. I got the Stratus body because frankly, that's all they had in stock and It'll do the job for now.
[link=http://s93994688.onlinehome.us/images/tc3.jpg]
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I'm pleased with the way the body turned out actually. The speckled paint really looks nice in the light.
[link=http://s93994688.onlinehome.us/images/stratus.jpg]
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I looked at some brush-less setups and they look awesome but maybe I'll move up to something like that later. It's at least $200 for one of those systems and I'm sure it'll kill my battery pack of quicker.
Two more questions actually, what do you recommend for batteries? I saw 6 sanyo 3300's at my hobby shop today (non-matched) for $60 and thought about grabbing it. Should I? Also, anyone have experience with dying plastics? I want to dye my white plastic TC3 wheels black because of my light colored body. I don't think painting them would hold up well.
[link=http://s93994688.onlinehome.us/images/tc3.jpg]
I'm pleased with the way the body turned out actually. The speckled paint really looks nice in the light.
[link=http://s93994688.onlinehome.us/images/stratus.jpg]
I looked at some brush-less setups and they look awesome but maybe I'll move up to something like that later. It's at least $200 for one of those systems and I'm sure it'll kill my battery pack of quicker.
Two more questions actually, what do you recommend for batteries? I saw 6 sanyo 3300's at my hobby shop today (non-matched) for $60 and thought about grabbing it. Should I? Also, anyone have experience with dying plastics? I want to dye my white plastic TC3 wheels black because of my light colored body. I don't think painting them would hold up well.
#6
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From: daly city, CA
get some 3000 epic batteries from tower for 18.00..i have 2 packs and it last me about at least 2 hours of drifting.. and with the brushless set up youll get more run time than a brushed system..and to me a brushless seems the best way to go even if you have to wait forever to save up for it..cause in the end youll be happier cause you saved money and get better performance and no maintence. but really i didnt have that much patiences and i juss bought some cheap electronics cause i wanted to ride already.
about the kit..did you find it hard to put the pin in the spindle part where the wheel hexes go..
about the kit..did you find it hard to put the pin in the spindle part where the wheel hexes go..
#7
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From: Tampa, FL
Not only was it hard to put that pin in, but it was even more difficult taking it out! I forgot to put the thin metal spacer behind the wheel nut and had to pry on the plastic nut as well as the pin with pliers to get it out. I was thinking about reaming the hole out a bit with my dremel but I'll wait on that.
I didn't have too many problems with the kit except the fit of the rear A-arms was weird I thought. Definitely doesn't look straight until the wheels are on, not the same as the picture in the manual. Also, a screw was improperly machined. There were no threads on it so I had to find a replacement, I thought that was a bit odd too.
I hear where you're coming from on the brushless system. I've never driven a brushed motor or any electric cars though so I don't know what to expect in terms of maintenance or performance benefits of a brushless system. If anyone could compare the two I might have to look at some brushless setups such as the novak SS5800. And who else makes brushless setups?
I didn't have too many problems with the kit except the fit of the rear A-arms was weird I thought. Definitely doesn't look straight until the wheels are on, not the same as the picture in the manual. Also, a screw was improperly machined. There were no threads on it so I had to find a replacement, I thought that was a bit odd too.
I hear where you're coming from on the brushless system. I've never driven a brushed motor or any electric cars though so I don't know what to expect in terms of maintenance or performance benefits of a brushless system. If anyone could compare the two I might have to look at some brushless setups such as the novak SS5800. And who else makes brushless setups?
#8
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From: , NORWAY
+ and - with BL
+ No maintance, you could have the engine and ESC for 10 years+ with correct spur/Pinjon kombination and good looken after
+ Good performance, for grip racing it's compared with a 10-12 Turn racing engine, but in drifting it has the bottom end needed
+ Nice with batteries, The batteries hold much longer than a brush motor with the same performance
+ they are expensive like 2500NOK (220 $) buth with a competition Brush engine you need Motor, ESC, "Brush Changer" and may brushes and that has a total of three times as much!
-?
-?
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Brushless is the way to go
+ No maintance, you could have the engine and ESC for 10 years+ with correct spur/Pinjon kombination and good looken after
+ Good performance, for grip racing it's compared with a 10-12 Turn racing engine, but in drifting it has the bottom end needed
+ Nice with batteries, The batteries hold much longer than a brush motor with the same performance
+ they are expensive like 2500NOK (220 $) buth with a competition Brush engine you need Motor, ESC, "Brush Changer" and may brushes and that has a total of three times as much!
-?
-?
-?
Brushless is the way to go
#9
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From: Tampa, FL
Cool, sounds like I;ll just save up a bit more and go with the Novak system.
I was gonna get an LRP IPC Sport ESC which from the looks of it is much smaller, is everything from a brushless system gonna fit on my little TC3? I know it's got extra sensor wires as well, it just seems like a lot to bolt on.
If it's really better on batteries then I'm all for it. And maintenance, anything that will make it easier is welcomed by me, I have 2 nitro monster trucks and 2 more nitro stadium trucks to look after as well!
I was gonna get an LRP IPC Sport ESC which from the looks of it is much smaller, is everything from a brushless system gonna fit on my little TC3? I know it's got extra sensor wires as well, it just seems like a lot to bolt on.
If it's really better on batteries then I'm all for it. And maintenance, anything that will make it easier is welcomed by me, I have 2 nitro monster trucks and 2 more nitro stadium trucks to look after as well!
#10
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From: daly city, CA
yea juss mount the rx on top of the servo..and when you have the esc mounted closest to the motor youll have about a 1/4 inch gap inbetween the esc and servo.. and the best thing about the novak system is that everything is all soldered on and connected for you right when you open the box..didnt know that till i recieved it from the mail and opened it. and yes it is really that good on the batteries, novak says its supposed to increase runtimes by up to 25% i think.
yea i also thought the rear a arms fitted weird, like i was forcing it to fit and making the plastics look funny..but ive ran it like this for about 10 or more runs and nothing went wrong(besides my abs wheels turning super thin)
yea i also thought the rear a arms fitted weird, like i was forcing it to fit and making the plastics look funny..but ive ran it like this for about 10 or more runs and nothing went wrong(besides my abs wheels turning super thin)



