jadidaskv

so i just bought this R2R at my LHS. the guy tells me to decharge the battery first and then charge is. since the charger that comes with it take too long and i wanted to play today, he told me to run it down there and he can charge it for me. so i do took about 10 mins to decharge, close to an hour to charge, he hook up his multimeter and said i was good to go. got home and plugged it in, i only got about 10 not even 15 mins run time. just as much as it took to decharge before he charged it. is this average run time for this unit?

dragnse7en

That run time might sound about right if you're running the truck hard and at full speed a lot, also depends on your gearing. If it's geared too high, then that can shorten the run time as well.

If you got the money, shop around for a cheap runner pack with 5000mAh, 40C or higher. I get half an hour of run time out of my packs, no matter what I car I plug them into.

A popular place is Hobbypartz dot com for good prices on lipos, and they sell out fast every time they re-stock though, but it's just a thought.

jadidaskv

thanks for the reply. wow thats crap. 8.5 hours of charging for ten mins of driving. of course i drive hard, thats the only way to drive lol. i ordered a lipo 5000mah charger combo for my tt01. looks like im gona need about 10 more to have fun with both cars lol.

jadidaskv

i ordered a lipo 5000mah charger combo for my tt01. guy at the store said and hour run time while someone else said half hour i def drive hard, thats the only way to have fun, and go fast lol. what should my first upgrades for this pig be? it has the xl-5 esc for sure and 550 19t (i believe)

dragnse7en

The best resource is the offical stampede thread somewhere here on this site.

Running it for an hour would be wicked fun but I would continuously watch the temps on the esc and motor.

jadidaskv

oh ay def. hey when they esc burns out, that just means to get a better one that can handle a bigger motor lol.i think the motor has a fan but def still let to cool off between changing batteries or let it cool down 10-15mins after 40 mins runtime

dragnse7en

Two 3-5 minute pit stop breaks would probably be fine for an hour's run. Check out the screws and fasteners, suspension movement, steering, tire wear, and so on. Then, during the second break, I'd look at it again. Other things to do while it cools is to check the drive train parts like the prop shaft joints and dogbones or cvds. Look at the diff action, the gearing mesh, etc.

I was thinking of designing a liquid-cooled radiator system that replaces the heat sink on escs, but not all of them are the same size so I will look to experiment one day if I get the chance.

jadidaskv

cool cool. thanks man.

ya that be sweet. something like they use in a moonshine still with a cooper coil with cold water running through it. just finding a way to keep it cold. dry ice maybe lol idk

acexxxoasis

My Feedback: (4)

you wouldnt be able to have enough volume of fluid to keep it cool... once it heats up its hot and going to heat up your esc then also you would need a radiator of some sort good luck with that too. liquid cooling is more about maintaining a temp then cooling off.

dragnse7en

When I was in the Army, and I was @NTC, some geeks from MIT asked me to be a guinea pig for them. They attached a weird piece of equipment to the back of my HMMWV, and it was an experimental night vision friendly ID panel. It was a 9" x 9" heatsink, mounted on a d/c motor to make it spin. The heat sink had a reverse polarity thermal pad in it. One side of the heat sink got frosty and ice cold, while the other side was warmer than anything else metal on the truck. At night, seeing through thermals, the ID panel would show up as a blinking square (hot/ cold/ hot/ cold).

Maybe I should call MIT and ask them about that patch . . . .

jadidaskv

ya that sounds like it could be very useful for rc'ers