MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

I had my Rustler in the garage for the last two years (extreme Chicago temps). This year I brought it down to the basement to prepare it for summer and found that my Electronic Speed Control will not switch on. I tried with fully charged batteries after testing the batteries but no go.
My question is, I want to purchase a new speed control.

Should I buy the same ESC or is there a benefit to upgrading?
Most importantly: If you look at the listings on ebay such as: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-3018...item5ae8a17747 the plug is not the same. I have attached a picture of what my plug looks like

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Monte

NjBasher

If u want to stay brushed but for about 100 bucks you can go brushless

phmaximus

Those Xl5's can be tricky to turn on it the throttle trim is out, even try getting it into program more before u replace it. just to be sure...

The XL5 is a great ESC, I have no comlaints what so ever, I highly reccomend them.
the latest ones with the LVD are fantastic...

For some strange reson someone has replaced the Traxxas High current connector on ur car's ESC with a cheap nasty tamiya style plug.
I would recomend replacing all ur charger, ESC's and battery connectors with the Traxxas ones.

goodluck

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks guys. I think I've tried everything. I can't seem to enter program mode without the power on. If it wasn't faulty, it would turn on as long as it had battery power right?

I was going to Recheck the wiring to the receiver but that shouldn't matter

nitrosportsandrunner

If your battery is good, you should at least see the LED light up briefly. If the ESC doesnt detect the radio signal or the trim is not right, the LED goes out right away.

But I assume you dont have steering function either? If the ESC is on but the light is off because the trim isnt right you would still have steering. If the light is out because the ESC doesnt detect the radio....you should still have heard the servo twitch when turning the ESC on.

If you are gonna replace the ESC, might as well update your plugs. The white tamiya plug you have is old school. Today, batteries are much better and can supply enough amps to melt those plugs.

Have you tested your battery? Try plugging a motor direct to the battery plug. If the motor dont move, then its the problem.

Since the truck worked when you put it away, I feel its more likely that your battery died from sitting than your ESC.

Ive bought used XL-5 ESC's for $30 on ebay. A Losi 12t or Tazer 15t would also be substitutes for the xl5.

As mentioned above, you can upgrade to brushless for $100. Brushless motor are far more efficient. The ESC/motor have to match, so both much be upgraded.

And if your rustler is old enough, it may have plastic trans gears and not the metal ones. But you can buy metal ones and install them to update the trans.

So, test you battery 1st.
If you wanna stick with brushed, pick up a used XL5, Losi 12t, Tazer 15t or simillar ESC off ebay for $25-$40 and buy a battery plug to match.
If you wanna go brushless, Ezrun 35amp system with 3900kv motor, or a ezrun 60amp system with a 3300 or 3500kv motor. and dont forget to update the trans gears if needed.

phmaximus

NO, the trim needs to be in range for it to turn on and light up the green LED.

when u plug in the battery and press the button on the ESC for over 0.5sec does the red led light up? do u get any lights?
how sure are u that the battery is charged (sorry its happened on this forum before)

here is the manual [link=http://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/2405-3605-3705-Owners-R04.pdf]here[/link]

NjBasher

I just got my ezrun combo. 4000kv motor 60 amp esc

phmaximus

Nice.... Feel the power

NjBasher

I'm not really feeling the power on a nimh battery

phmaximus

What cell count...

NjBasher

6[&o]

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like most of you have seen battery problems before esc problems. I will triple check the batteries before I replace.


Thanks for all your help! I also learned that traxxas has a lifetime warranty on those.$15 to fix I love a bargain!

nitrosportsandrunner

yep, time for lipos....or at least a decent 7cell nimh.
Brushless systems demand more amps. More than amps then an old nimh pack can deliver anyway.

I love it when someone who buys a redcat brushless models says its OK. (they come with nimh packs) I tell them to buy a 2s lipo and when they do they are shocked at the difference.

Using a nimh on a brushless is like runing regular gas on a high performance race engine. You are only gonna get maybe 80% of the potential of the motor.

NjBasher

Well hopefully next week ill place an order

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Guys, Will this work in my rustler?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ezrun-RC-Car...item3384b8ff55

DieHarder

Yes sir! A very nice combo and will give you plenty of power on 2S.

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks DieHarder. OK so I placed the order this morning. Looks like based on what you're saying I'll need a new battery. Any other suggestions? Do I need new gearing?
First Electric RC Project, so exciting!

DieHarder

Correct! You will need a new battery. This will strap in and give you no troubles: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venom-40C-7-...item3cf21fdd63 This battery is a very good deal for the quality and the fact that it has a universal connector, which makes it so you don't have to solder a connector to the battery. Venom is top of the line, you should have no problems. I run that exact battery in my Duratrax Evader. You will need to solder a connector to the ESC though. Solder the male plug of this set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbico-Star...item2a4a0a1a2b to the ESC. The battery will have universal connectors, so it comes with an adapter for the Hobbico Star plug I linked.

I believe the stock gearing on the Rustler is 20/88 (pinion tooth # / spur tooth #) and that should about right to keep 4000kv running at a nice cool temp. I'm pretty sure it's good to go for gearing.

Is your steering servo stock? If so, better replace it with this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML

Other than that, you should be set. If you strip a gear in the transmission, it will most likely be the idler gear (center). Here is a metal replacement for it if you want to get it beforehand: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSGZ3&P=M

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

I'm sure I'll be back in touch for the soldering portion. I'll probably follow a youtube vid when doing that. I'll place the order for the other items tomorrow, this is awesome. Can't wait to show a video of the finished product. Come to think of it, I'm too excited to wait until tomorrow, battery, servo, and connectors ordered.

I just want to take the cover off the trans and make sure that's the right one, i'm sure I'll be replacing that too!

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

IMO, NiMh batteries should not be used with a brushless setup. Tho you should notice a marked power difference, regardless. Running a NiMh pack on even a 35A brushless system will over-heat the battery, and kill it, in pretty short order. I know, I've done it. Melts the shrink wrap, and soon, the pack won't even take a charge. If you go brushless, go Lipo, period. And for God's sake, ditch the crappy Tamiya power plugs! They should be banned from the hobby.

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Wow guys, I have to say that soldering is way harder than I though. I did a horrendous job soldering the connectors but I'm going to leave it as is. It took me at least an hour and my hand is all burned up.

I just need to order a transmitter and receiver and I'll be ready to test. Oh PS, my charger has Tamiya connectors meaning I have to solder again.

This may be a very obvious question but does the type of solder I use matter? Is it important to have a good soldering iron? I bought a really cheap one and used the solder that came with it.

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

Well, you don't need to. You can get a Tamiya to (whatever) adapter from eBay or A Main for $5. Not really, but I like using a little extra flux. Yes, it does matter. At least a good quality tip, as parts of a cheap tip can come off and make your solder job chunky. So to keep it cheap for now, just buy a new genuine Weller or Hakko tip.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

It matters a lot. Full stop.

You need an iron with at least 40 Watts, an a tip with enough mass to solder quickly, but small enough to work on the smaller things we work on.

You may be able to get tin/lead solder somewhere, but mostly it's silver based now. A little different to work with, but not that much. And you want a rosin-core solder. Not acid core used in plumbing.

Can't do a good job with Crap tools.

MonteEvader

My Feedback: (1)

Can you give me a link to a decent solder keeping in mind I may use it for 1 or 2 more jobs. Also, can someone help suggest a transmitter and receiver combo that I can use with my new and improved Rustler? I want to spend no more than $50 but note a basic one is fine and spending less than that is better for me

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

A transmitter/receiver will run you a good $20, so that leaves $30 or less for a soldering iron. The only one I've heard of for that cheap is the Yihua 936. Dave from EEVBlog reviewed it, and his final verdict was "If you're tight strapped on money for an iron, than this is the one for you". Paraphrased, of course. Lol.

Iron; http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
Tx/Rx; http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2Ch_Tx_Rx.html