Northern Mike

My used rustler was in desperate need of drive shafts. I was told to go with the slash axles (pn:6852x) as they where stronger.
Are there any tips or tricks or other prep work I should do to these to help the, last? The plastic in the knuckles on the old ones where so worn, I could almost get a quarter turn of play out of the shaft.
I had heard somewhere that some folks put heat shrink tubing over the knuckles after packing them with geese. I couldn't see heat shrink tubing lasting long at high rpms.
Here is a pic of one drive shaft going into my rustler.

phmaximus

ultimately the best shafts from traxxas are 1951R.

But those HD shafts are a good improvement over stock.
Personally U wouldn't bother trying to protect them. mainly because its so cheap for replacement parts I think its $10 for 6 half shafts pairs(male and female).

only tips I can think of... don't over tighten the grub screw on the out put yokes & a thin coat of marine grease on the metal parts (ie. joints.& stub axls) if u plan plan or getting it wet.
And lastly, when u fit the stub axle into the bearings in the hub carrier, clean and oil the bearings and be sure to shim the stub axles

john01374

The Slash shafts are a good improvement over the stock pieces. I've never had an issue with them twisting or breaking and I run my Rustler and Pede on 3S most of the time.

Get yourself a new set and you should be fine. There is no point in dropping $50-$60 on axles for these trucks.

Northern Mike

Shims can be M5 washers I'm assuming?
I bought this rustler used and it was brutally sloppy with no shims on any axles

I think this rustler had seen some abuse in its time. I'm pretty sure the slash shafts was what I had on it, but can't tell if there is a difference between the ones I pulled off and the ones going on.

phmaximus

ummm kind of.... washer are generally a bit to thick. but u can get shims that are the same size and come in different thickness... some are thinner than paper so u can eliminate 98% of the lateral slop...

The HD shafts are from originally the slash 4x4, the are beefier from the yokes, joints, sliders and stub axle when compared to the older style shafts. They cannot be upgraded with a steel yoke like the older ones
the most noticeable difference is the size of the pins on the uni joint... they are thicker

backnrc

I went threw the same headache! On both my xl5 and vxl. Even the hd slash shafts were twisting off. So I upgraded to Tekno m6 shafts. They work awesome. ...so good I started breaking the roll pin inside the clutch shaft (inside transmission)
This was with imho a good adjusted slipper.
So after the fourth roll pin shearing off... (which you have to buy the shaft) I popped the roll pin out. Found a drill bit that snuggly fit....cut it to length and haven't had a problem since. (Knock on wood)

Oh...and my rear wheel nuts kept comming loose fromt the metal tekno shafts...so I used loctic tape.....fixed that problem.

But let me say....it wasn't a pleasant time fingering all those headaches out lol

Oh....and I had so many saying once they ran the slash hd shafts they didn't have a problem. ....but I was! (Plus running prolone badlands.....traction!)

Northern Mike

I should mention for anyone looking to use the slash driveshafts, you can't use the OEM suspension arms with the shocks on the highest setting (mounting holes nearest to the body). The yokes will hit the camber turnbuckles when the suspension is fully extended (in air for example).
The RPM suspension arms are fine as they don't have such a high shock mounting position.
I should note also, the slash shafts required 1.5mm worth of shims with new traxxas bearing holders and there is still enough room for another 0.2mm or so worth of shims.