mrbuggy1987

hey yall, its been a while since Ive been on here and its good to be back, so I thought Id come back with a few Q's about my new ruckus. Ive heard about a lot of problems with having to shim the diffs, but mine are very tight straight from the factory. Has anyone else recently bout an ecx vehicle and found they DIDNT need to shim the diffs? Also, i was wondering if anybody has any suggestions as to replacing the stock links so I can adjust camber/toe. Ive already replaced the stock servo(terrible) and changed the shock oil to get started.Ive read everywhere that people have had great luck with durability, I guess all the play might have been on purpose to help durability. Any other suggestions??

RustyUs

Welcome to RCU.
Normally, I look at Lunsford Racing for turnbuckles if a kit/platform doesn't come with the linkage I want. Ruler/calipers and a set of rod ends are your best bet for a custom length set if you can't find a pre-packaged set specifically for your truck. I've read people using Traxxas 3741A, and have seen some older Ruckus' using Team Associated turnbuckles...from which platform? I can't confirm the fit though with the Traxxas parts either.

For a monster truck, and the way it was designed (upper front arms non adjustable), I'd stick with the stock arms/linkage; not worry too much about the huge tires and camber adjustment. Upgrading the steering linkage because it flexes too much, I can see doing that. Depending on how hard you run, I would not go with aluminum.

Possibly a firsthand user will show up and give you a direct answer what works.

mrbuggy1987

all great points. Ive been in this hobby 20 years and I always like gettin other peoples opinion on almost every new rc I get. Since it is just a basher, "dialing in" the suspension isnt my biggest concern, its just that id like to get some of the slop out of the steeing, which i believe is mostly in the servo saver assembly.If i do replace the links, ill try my best to use rod ends and not ball cups and studs. I remember back to my stadium truck days and hated them always poppin off. Ive also noticed a lot of problems with the 4 screwz in that hold the ring gearz on the diff to be a problem coming loose, so ill tear them back down and put a dab of ca on the heads.Other than that, seems to be a great truck, and eventually will get an 80 or 120 amp esc and tacon 3660(or similar) motor. Ive seens videos or stronger setups and the drivetrain seems to take it in stride.thanks for the input man.

Jwsewell

I came across this post and decided to sign up and offer some help.

I finally decided it's time to replace the stock non adjustable front toe and rear camber links,.















The front toe turnbuckles are Traxxas TRA 3643.
The rear camber turnbuckles are Traxxas TRA 3644


The 3644 links have two ends that are different than the other 6 and comes with two screws. These two links need to be swapped to the longer links for the rear and installed on the shock tower.





They will bind up if you try to use these ends up front on the toe links.




Longer screws are also needed for the other 6 ends, the stock screws just aren't long enough.


These will also fit the 4x4 Ruckus and Circuit, (exactly the same)

RustyUs

Ah yes, the dreaded servo saver. Not adjustable or it's on the servo itself?

If the steering bellcrank doesn't have a built in servo saver, perfect. I would just go with a more powerful metal gear high torque servo.

Edit: Since looking at the steering on the ECX website, it looks like the servo saver is directly on the servo. And then I saw the spec for the stock servo as well....65 oz-in. That's hardly adequate IMO for even a stadium truck, let alone a 4wd monster truck trying to turn huge tires .

That servo is where you want to upgrade first IMO. Run the stock servo 'til it poops out on you, or 'til you can't take the performance of it. Maybe have a look at Hitec's HS-625MG (94.43 oz-in at 6.0V) High-Speed 2BB Metal Gear Servo, or, for ten dollars more, the HS-5625MG (130.53 oz-in at 6.0V) Digital High-Speed Metal Gear BB Servo. You can find other servos cheaper. Hitec is just my personal preference when I suggest something to someone, I've never question their quality .

Roger's Hobby Center said..."Fixing the second problem was much more difficult, though not nearly as impossible as fixing the steering on the 2WD ECX vehicles. At first, we thought it was simply a weak servo saver, and replaced it with a solid arm. But taking it out and driving it again proved that the problem didn't lie with the servo saver at all; the servo itself was simply too weak to properly steer the truck."

The Saylors

I cant believe they would put a 65oz servo in that big of a truck! Get that thing out of there and get a hitech or a savox. Either will fix you up and definitely get a metal gear one, plastic has no place in my servos lol.

RustyUs

Thanks for bringing the issue up. I'm always looking up stuff to put into my head for later use. Maybe the info I learned about the servo saver being on the servo itself will persuade my decision on next 4x4. Most everything I've read about ECX's platforms is good. Some platforms have more issues than others. For me just looking on the www, I like more of what ECX's 4x4s bring "to the table".

The Saylors

A basher friend of mine has the ecx torment and he really likes it and rarely breaks. His biggest gripe with it is that it isn't waterproof as it always rains here and puddles are everywhere.

Jwsewell

Yes, for sure the servo is not up to the task. The servo has visible play in the output shaft and is weak. I bought a Savox SW-1210sg.

The servo saver itself has tons of play. I am planning to install an aluminum horn.

Anywhere there is a plastic hollow ball there will be excessive play. I still need to replace the steering cross links, (top and bottom)

Last of all the steering bell crank in two pieces that key together and there is play here. I plan to glue this together taking care not to get any glue in the inside bore.

Just the servo and toe links have made a HUGE difference.

RustyUs

Thanks for the "crisp" pictures. They do a lot to bring things into perspective.

And the Badlands...I never get tired of looking at them on a RC.

Any weak spots in the tranny when ripping up, and spitting out stuff with them Pro-Lines mounted up?

Jwsewell

I did end up with a clicking front diff. It was shimmed but the ring gear screws backed out.
I installed new ring and pinion and cleaned and filled the front diff with Losi 5000 cst fluid.

I want 7000 in the front diff. so I'm going to swap the front to the rear and rebuild the rear, ( now front), with 7000 fluid.

I turned my brake setting down from 50% to 25% and loosened my slipper a lil bit to protect the gears from excessive force. So far so good. Time will tell.

The Saylors

I liked those badlands until they both exploded. Was really disappointing, couldn't even piece one of them back together. Man did they look good while they lasted though. They hooked up great too, they just don't like 3s i guess

RustyUs

Not wanting to go off Ruckus topic, but.....Dude, I didn't want to hear that . "How many cells?" was my next question, but you answered it already . What sized of Badlands?

Jwsewell

I think 3s is asking for trouble with this truck. With sct tires the diffs and slipper MIGHT hold up.

With large tires I would definatly stick to 2s.

Mine is more than fast enough with a Castle sct 3800kv combo, 30c 4000 mah 2s, 4.95" tires and a 15 tooth pinion. Close to if not 50 mph. I have no accurate way to check.

I have gone back down to a 12 tooth pinion, ( about 40 mph), until I get better at my local public track. No sense in breaking more stuff. Lol

I am estimating top speed with this calculator.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

Btw the diff ratio is 3, trans. Ratio is 1, ( we don't have no stinking transmission). No need to worry about motor resistance, current, and tire balloning for rough estimates.

From what I have read about it.

mrbuggy1987

well I tore my diffs back down and ca'd the ring gear screws. As to a servo, I mentioned I had replaced it but not which brand. For 23 bucks Ive had great success with the solar d722 with an aluminum arm. Greatly improved steering and can now hold a line goin around a corner. Some people just zip tie the stock saver but I say get rid of it.And to Jwsewell, those links look awesome, thats gonna be on my to do list. after that, some washers here and there, power upgrade from the tazer brushless and some aluminum hex's and larger nylocks.

The Saylors

They were the pre-mounted ones (2.2's) I was really surprised. They lasted 1 1/2 3s packs on the slash 2wd. I didn't even run them very hard. Center of the tread blew clean off of one of them. Super sad face lol. I do have a set of 2.8's and those are still fine but i almost never use them because they destroy my motors without re gearing and they look dumb lol. And no i don't lay on the throttle when in the air.

mrbuggy1987

well. finally got the diffs shimmed corectly. I did it like a fuse size ring and iniojn. painted yellow marking compound and adjusted the sims till the tooth engaement was right in the middle ring teeth.with just a hair of side to side movement.also used 000ct in the rear and 7000 in the front. I also put washers on the back hun cariers to take the sklight side ti side motion they had stock. also did this with the upper and lower arms and a few other places. last place to fix slop is the steering. gonna experiment with ackerman mods and I have traxxas rod endson orer as well a tbome bumpers and a 4 led light to put on the front bumper, runnin 2s now and as soon as i get the funds an 80 amp esc and rocket racing 550 motor are coming

Jwsewell

ahhhhhh! Let us know what you do on the steering. Pics would be sweet too.

Please! Lol

mrbuggy1987

I can tell ya its gonna take a lot of trial and error to get the slop down to zreo, so it might be a while. But i will be reaserching other ackerman setups that will either bolt on or bolt on with slight mods.Ill tell you one thing, ive raced 1/8 scale e-buggies for 4 years and ive never seen sutch a drastic change in a vehilce just by swapping in some good diff oil.

mrbuggy1987

well, on top of the previous mods, I got some clamping Team AE hex's and some better nylocks for the wheel nuts. and now it runs like a dream. fun to bash, even with the stock system and 2s. still workin on the slop in the steering, but i have replaced ALL the plastic pivot balls with metal ones and it cut it down by a good 40 percent. I also took the center spine that covers the drive shaft and cut it right in front of the back diff so i dont have to take the whole thing off when i just need one end or the other off. 45 weight shock oil and now no more bottoming out on medium jumps. took 3rd place at my local track for the 1/10 class 4wd monster category(which is limited to 2s) only other guys to beat me were 2 modded brushless stampedes(damn those velinions) lol.

mrbuggy1987

well I had my first casualty today. I broke a rear driveshaft stub at the part where the dogbone goes in, I was like how the hell did that happen. It seems the dogbones are just a tad short(which caused the problem by the pin riding on the outer edge. does anybody know of any hop ups for the truck other than the few mad by ecx? AND both back wheels stripped out since the aluminum hex's, guess ill just call em and send pics to see if i can get replacements.

RustyUs

Is there any type of o-ring/spring/spacer use to keep the dog-bones centered? I know all of my RCs, that have dog-bones, use o-rings or springs on both ends of each dog-bone. When I have one of the spacers fail on me, that's when I run into a binding situation like you describe.

mrbuggy1987

yeah, Ive did that for years. o-rings, nitro fuel tubing, even wads of cotton, lol.I wonder if the front cv's will fit the rear. Hot racing makes some, but i havent heard good things about them.

Jp1ruckus

Hey guys. I got my son a torment 4x4 and its awsome. He wanted monster truck tyres so i found a brushless ruckus 4x4. It arrived yesterday. So he now has a ruckus 4x4 and i have a brushless torment 4x4. Wow those mt shootouts are masive i can see why steering is a issue with them, its bad enough on the torment. But with the help of the brushless motor now in my torment its way more agile as the power helps in turning alot. I will upgrade both trucks to the savox 15kg waterproof servos when they pack up.
all i have done to my trucks is shimmed every pin on the a arms front and back and the axles behind the hex pins. Packed out the drive shafts to keep the all centred. Put a 50wt oil in the shocks (massive difference) . Put extra pre load spacers in. 7000cst in the diffs. traxxas adjustable links are arriving soon. And keep everything oiled up nice.
its a different truck with a little bit of love especially after tightening all the loose screws from factory.
cant wait for the savox to be installed.
all these tuning mods are picked up from you guys on here and what a difference.
thanks

RustyUs

Any issues with diffs needing shimmed on either your Torment, or Ruckus?