irishmotorco

Hi;
I am new to rc. I'm retired (an old fart) and want to go racing. I ought a integy i8T 4x4 truggy. Does anyone know anything about this
truck. There is no paperwork (manual). I don't know what type of lipo batteries or what connectors I need for this truck or any of the finer points of what lubes to use or where. Right this minute I'm lost. Please help.
Larry

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

Welcome to RC! That truggy looks like a pretty good RC truck, yet I have never seen it. For batteries, those use an XT60 connector, a connector mostly used with cheaper RC vehicles. If you can solder, I'd install some Deans plugs instead. If not, you can buy an adapter, but it would be very sketchy to run an adapter with all that current. You also only need to switch the connector for the ESC, as the battery I suggest has multiple connectors you can use.

For that truck, I would suggest a 4S LiPO battery and then turn down the throttle in the radio if it is too fast. For what lubes and such to use, just use shock oil for the shocks and Team Associated's Black Grease for the insides of the transmissions, nothing really more to it. It should come pre-lubricated and ready to go from the factory.

Battery; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...-with-uni-plug

Connectors; http://www.kr4.us/Deans-Connector-M-...FU0vgQodPsAOhA

Grease (for later); http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FdgRgQodFb8Bbw

Shock Oil (for later); http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FdgRgQodFb8Bbw

Charger; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...alance-charger


By the way, I moved the thread to the RC Truck Off Road section, you should get more replies there.

The Saylors

Welcome to the addiction! That's a new one that i haven't seen before. I will be interested to hear how it holds up to abuse considering integy's record were parts are concerned. I honestly had no idea that they even did full rtrs. Having a hard time finding any info, this thing must have just came out. Looking at it on integy.com the motor can reminds me of a giant leopard motor but its hard to tell, it's specs don't seem to help after some searching. Pretty low kv for a 1/8th buggy. Looks like they tried to make it out of decent parts but without hands on it hard to tell. Cant beat the price that's for sure especially for a 1/8th 4x4, hell i dont think i could get a 1/10th 4x4 for that little. Let us know how you like it once you run it a few times.

RustyUs

Rear wing screams Basher brand? I thought for sure it was a Sabertooth. The front shock tower is the same. The rear end is the same. The arms are the same. The "D" Plate is the same.The turnbuckles are the same. It's like the i8T uses a shorter buggy chassis outfitted with Sabertooth truggy attire. Weird .

You take a comparison look : Sabertooth & i8T.


After further looking into specs, the i8T's wheelbase is right up there with other truggies. The Sabertooth is just super long.

Acme Mighty Truggy uses the same layout as well.

irishmotorco

Hey Thanks collector 1231. Now I at least have a starting place

mrbuggy1987

the motor esc is rebranded hobbywing, the radio system is fry-sky.all the things you would need for your truck are on hobbypartz.com, but th esc stuff id get from integy

mrbuggy1987

hers a link for very good quality parts, batteries motors, escs all kind of stuff http://www.rcjuice.com/

irishmotorco

You all have been very helpful. Thanks!

redgrinde

Hey Larry,

I'd pick up 2 or 3 batteries. I like hardcase 2S 35+C 5000+ mah something like this if you need Roar (generally needed to actually race) batteries- Hobbyking Turnigy Battery, or this Cheaper non Roar Hobbyking battery
I'd also pick up a charger something high end that auto balances, an icharger 206b or something like it, I have an old Hyperion charger its been great but its getting pretty outdated.

As for connectors you can put whatever variety you want on as long as you can use a soldering iron. Not sure what the current favorite is...

Hobbyking and hobbypartz.com have some pretty inexpensive batteries and electronics I've used both without issue.

irishmotorco

Thanks, you read my mind. Those were going to be my next questions.
Larry

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

It is a large 1/8 truggy, 2S is not an option. I also wouldn't trust those cheaper Hobbyking and Hobbypartz batteries as well.

redgrinde

Good point I haven't run anything that heavy with Electric.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know about any other battery Hobbypartz carries, but Gens Ace Lipos are my favorite. Best quality you can get for the money. Don't waste your money on the expensive Max Amps brand, or any brand that charges anything near $100 for a 2S lipo. I've got 5000mah 50C Gens Ace packs that are four years old and still almost like new. They were under $50ea.

I wonder about those HobbyStar packs at RC Juice. They do not state whether their packs are 2S1P or 2S2P. That makes a big difference. 2S1P means there are two 1S Lipo cells in parallel. 2S2P means there are two 1S cells that make up one cell, and there are two of those, meaning there are really FOUR cells in the pack. That's two extra internal connections. Extra internal connections mean extra internal resistance, which is not a good thing. In addition, if ANY ONE of those cells are not matched well to the others, or if one cell is just weaker, or the cells are of poor quality, the pack will heat up, puff, and just not last. I bought a couple 7200mah SMC 2S2P packs that, initially, were awesome. 25-30min run time, superior punch. But in less than a year, the run times significantly decreased (like, by ten minutes), the packs got REALLY hot, and puffed. They were soon performing worse than my 4-5 year old Gens Ace packs. They got the salt bath, and were tossed.

Most 5000mah packs are 2S1P. Stick with those. Most packs that are OVER 5000mah are 2S2P. And most decent packs SPECIFY on the label what they are, so if the pack doesn't state ON THE LABEL what it is, don't buy it.

Oh, and the 2S vs 4S thing....a lot of guys who run 1/8 scale that use 4S to 6S packs usually run two 2S packs or two 3S packs. This is done using a SERIES CABLE that connects the two packs in series and then to the ESC connector. Two 2S packs in series is the same as one 4S with respect to the voltage. See this video.

Fluids. Start with 30wt silicone shock oil for the shocks. Grease doesn't really give you consistent performance in your diffs. I'd suggest an 8000wt diff fluid for the center diff, and 5000wt for the front and rears diffs as a starting point.

irishmotorco

Thank you;
You really helped. Now, one more question... Where can I get gens ace lipos?
My appreciation in advance
Larry

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Here you go: Hey! They've got 5000mah 2S1P packs on sale for $26 !!!
http://www.genstattu.com/car-battery-lipo.html

The Saylors

$26 is a pretty good deal for those. All of my lipo's at that level were at least double that.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

$50 is the regular price, so yeah, it's a GREAT deal. Gens Ace packs are THE BEST of the reasonably priced Lipos. I'd be buying a few right now, but our card is maxed out. Get 'em while you can!

AnarchyRCn760

Wer can you get a manual for I8T or sabertooth, is ther one more complex then the poor thing that comes with sabertooth, The I8T did not come with one

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

You talking about the Basher Sabertooth? How 'bout here https://hobbyking.com/en_us/basher-s...ruggy-arr.html
Look under the FILE tab, several to download.